tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-58087858274559581312023-11-16T03:45:11.331-08:00Mexico!Unknownnoreply@blogger.comBlogger67125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5808785827455958131.post-54284565486013160862012-06-28T10:07:00.002-07:002012-06-28T12:05:17.884-07:00June 28Hola, everyone!<br />
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Barrel cactus flowers</div>
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Here in Mexico we are drawing to the end of the political campaign, which has several features that I as an American am envious of. For one, the campaign is limited to the two months preceding the July 1 vote, this Sunday. The campaigning is therefore more intense than in the US, but at least it doesn't drag on forever as ours seems to. I also like the fact that here the president can legally serve only one six-year term: no concern about being re-elected and with six years it should be possible to get something done. The current president, Felipe Calderón, has focused on overcoming the drug trafficking and consequent violence, but he doesn't seem to have been very successful. The simplest solution would be for Americans to stop buying drugs, but of course that won't happen.<br />
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This being Mexico, there are a couple of things different about political campaigns. First is the noise. There are many demonstrations, parades, and sound trucks blaring slogans and candidates' names, all very loud of course. Because Mexico is such a communal place with people in the streets and socializing on front stoops, there is a lot of citizen participation in the campaigns. Parades such as the one below, for a man running for governor of Guanajuato State, have been common. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKxkz2V2z4lgsiGygBVNsFGbjDiPUViJ7tiDPRM4ihUqvaJbs_MWkEQSd0K4pLewXxAjMHFSm_-XfBiP-L9UbxzjU-fkdRuP1c1JdH3hpfKGM8PiMm3ebtF0v7pNyzGi17u6OABqitgPs/s1600/IMG_0245.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKxkz2V2z4lgsiGygBVNsFGbjDiPUViJ7tiDPRM4ihUqvaJbs_MWkEQSd0K4pLewXxAjMHFSm_-XfBiP-L9UbxzjU-fkdRuP1c1JdH3hpfKGM8PiMm3ebtF0v7pNyzGi17u6OABqitgPs/s400/IMG_0245.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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I asked a man in the parade who was wearing a T-shirt of another candidate why he liked that candidate. "Es lo mejór!" he answered enthusiastically. "He's the best!"<br />
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The entire town is simply festooned with campaign signs on every available surface. Because there are walls everywhere -- houses, remember, are built within walls, something I have come to love for the privacy -- the walls serve as perfect surfaces for campaign signs. Some of them, like the next one, have letters that are big enough to be seen from outer space.<br />
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And as you'd expect with political feelings running high, sometimes people express their oppositional feelings pretty directly.<br />
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I suspect the candidates are far more motivated to paint all these walls at the beginning of the campaign than to restore them to their original state when it's over. I guess everyone will have to look at these things until the next campaign. <br />
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Every single lamp post in town has at least one campaign poster attached to it. By now, near the end of the campaign, a number of them have been torn or defaced by opponents' supporters. And this gives the candidates an opportunity to use the destruction of their campaign materials as an argument for their own virtue and the lack of same among their opponents. It's looking pretty ragged around here.<br />
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Yesterday three men were killed in Chiapas, a state in the south
of Mexico next to Guatemala. Drugs, I assumed. But no: they were
three men who were having a political argument defending their
candidates and opposing the candidates of the other two, and the
argument got pretty heated. A Mexican told me this happens every
election, with people killing each other in political disagreements.
Can you imagine Americans caring that much about politics? I can't.<br />
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Perhaps not by coincidence, the campaign materials of the sole woman running for president among four candidates are not nearly as ubiquitous as those of the others. Josefina Vazquez Mota is trailing in the polls partly because she's from the same political party as Calderón, the PAN, and he's not very popular.<br />
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The word on the street is that Enrique Peña Nieto, the candidate of the PRI party that ruled Mexico for over 70 years until 2000, will be elected president. A handsome man + a beautiful wife + a lot of money = electability, but he represents a party that was known for its authoritarianism. We will see.</div>
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I have been busy getting the casita ready for the first renter, who is arriving on Monday for a two-month stay. I have bought furniture, pictures, an area rug, and kitchen supplies. I have had two futons Rick left behind cleaned, and a bookcase built by the same carpenter who did all the gorgeous woodwork in both houses. I have had the walls painted, so they are no longer white: a buttery cream in the bedroom and bath, and a soft apricot in the kitchen and living room. It is looking quite beautiful. While she is here I will be looking for another renter, preferably long-term, to succeed her. As you can imagine, it will take months and months for all these expenditures to be made up, but it is necessary and will eventually pay off.</div>
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I am sorry but I have not yet taken photos of Rick's new house. I promise I will! He has bought the house he had his heart set on, and has gotten a marvelous deal on it. He has a much larger house now than he had here: a living room, an eat-in kitchen, a small solarium, three bedrooms and three baths, as opposed to one and one in the casita. His house has a shady front courtyard and a large, sunny, tiled upstairs patio. He will be able to rent out a bedroom for additional income because there are stairs from the courtyard to the second floor, making it a private entrance. The house is six or seven blocks from here in the same neighborhood, so he and I are back and forth all the time. He moved there two weeks ago. At first it felt sort of creepy being alone in this big place all by myself, but I am now completely used to it. When the renter is here, will it feel crowded?</div>
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Rick has been writing quite a lot of poetry, and I like most of it very much. I think he is pretty astonished to be finding this gift in himself at this point of his life, but he is loving it. On most Tuesday evenings, he reads some of his poetry at an Open Mic night where people perform poetry, prose, music, and dance. People have asked him where they can buy a copy of his poetry books! Here is a poem he wrote:</div>
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FOR A PESO</div>
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As I was walking the streets of San Miguel</div>
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I saw a twisted old woman</div>
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Half sitting, half lying on the sidewalk</div>
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I stopped to drop a peso in her basket</div>
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As I bent down, she looked up</div>
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Eyes probing mine, pulling me</div>
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Into her very being</div>
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Did I see the mother she had once been,</div>
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Her children now scattered and lost to her?</div>
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Had she once been someone's bride?</div>
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Some young man's passion?</div>
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Had her body always been broken?</div>
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Or had she run with her friends</div>
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Laughing in the sun?</div>
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Had she ever been carefree, giggling,</div>
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Sharing her dreams and longings?</div>
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Had she held the hands of her brothers and sisters</div>
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As they skipped across the plaza?</div>
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In her long life, had she ever felt safe,</div>
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Sheltered, and wholly loved?</div>
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Then, I saw in those eyes</div>
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That she had been all those things.</div>
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Was all those things.</div>
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Is all those things.</div>
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And, as I finally released the coin</div>
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Into her basket — she smiled</div>
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The sweetest smile, said "Gracias"</div>
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And released me to my passing self.</div>
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Rick has been writing, and I have been editing. A friend here, Richard Gordon, has written and self-published a book called <i>Butterfly Zen</i>. It is a marvelous book, an allegory about two butterflies and other creatures who serve as the vehicle for Richard's hard-won life wisdom, while being three-dimensional characters in their own right. I find Richard extraordinarily wise and thoughtful, and am so happy he's found a creative way — a way that works! — to express it. When I ordered my copy and read it, I saw that he is a better thinker and writer than he is knowledgeable about punctuation and other picky but important things. I offered to edit it, so he and I are spending hours every week going over the book word by word to improve it. You understand that I wouldn't spend this kind of time if I didn't think the book was worth it. I've done a lot of editing before but never with the author directly, so it's an interesting experience for me. If you'd like to read Richard's book, let me know by email (jo@josanders.com) and I'll tell when the edited version is available for purchase online.</div>
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The deadline for applications from instructors to teach a course in my adult education program, which will be piloted for the month of October, is two days from now. So far I have received two applications, both quite good: a history of Mexico and an introduction to architecture. I hope there will be more applications because I'd like to have a choice. It's all a learning experience.</div>
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The rains have come, finally, putting an end to temperatures in the low- to mid-90s. It's astonishing how immediately the temperatures come down 10 degrees (F.). Now it's not too hot to go to the Tuesday Market, the main market that attracts vendors of foods and every sort of merchandise imaginable, from miles around. I wanted to take pictures of many stalls — so many are so beautiful! — but here are just two of them for you, plastic shopping bags and roses. A dozen roses, by the way, cost 25 pesos, or $1.85. A big ripe sweet pineapple cost 13 pesos, or just under a dollar.<br />
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Hasta luego!<br />
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JoUnknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5808785827455958131.post-53988323291282175892012-05-25T18:19:00.001-07:002012-05-25T19:40:40.120-07:00May 25, 2012Hola, everyone<br />
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The last month has been a peculiar mixture of hassle, readjustment, and of course pleasure.<br />
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The most important thing is that Rick and I have managed to reach what is in effect a new normal. Our divorce will be final on June 19, but we are better together than ever. Not being married any more, we have no expectations or requirements of each other, don't push each other's buttons any more, and are free just to enjoy each other. Which we are doing! We spend part of every day together in comfort and ease -- no stress at all. We are apparently becoming best friends, and I can't tell you how much I love this and value it. I agree with Rick that once you love someone you never stop loving them, and that is surely true in this case. Now that the bad stuff is cleared away, we are both free to love each other much more easily than before. What could be bad about this?<br />
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It looks like he has found his new place to live. It's a house he's wanted for the last six weeks but needed to wait until the owner was ready to sell it -- a domino problem, until she found the house she wanted to move to. She has now found it, so Rick is in discussions with the real estate agent about what stays in the house and what goes. He has had a terrific stroke of luck in this house -- it's a huge amount of house for the money he has to spend. In the same neighborhood as I am (San Antonio), about 6 or 7 blocks away, his house has three bedrooms and three baths, is light and airy, and is really charming. The bedroom on the second floor has a separate entrance, so he'll be able to rent that out if he wants. In theory the down payment will happen next week and the closing as soon as possible thereafter. No pictures yet, but that will come. Once he moves of course he'll have the key to this place and will use the pool whenever he wants. And I'll have the key to his.<br />
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Actually, there's been a lot of housing hassle lately. The house on Camano Island not only has not sold, but there are few people looking at it -- only 3 or 4 in nearly 3 months that it's been on the market. When it had an open house last weekend with NO people showing up, I decided enough is enough. I'm hemorrhaging money supporting that vacant house, so it is now up for rent. It will be on the for-sale market until it has a renter. Even then I'll be losing money -- I owe about $850/month on the home equity line of credit (= type of mortgage) that I used to build this house.<br />
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Rick moved out of his casita (into the guest room for the meantime) so that I could put it up for rent. As soon as I can rent the casita (as well as the Camano Island house) I will break even in this housing mess and if I'm lucky clear a hundred dollars or so a month. I've been advertising it and there are several live possibilities. In the next post I'll let you know how it's going.<br />
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Enough of that. <br />
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I had a good time with my ambassador, for the international friendship program in San Miguel I told you about last time. I was disappointed the Moroccan ambassador cancelled at the last minute -- I wanted to resurrect my French! Instead I was assigned the ambassador from Portugal. He came with a young woman who is an attaché at the Portuguese embassy, and although they had two rooms in the hotel they seemed like an old married couple together. Oh well, not my business. They both spoke English and of course Spanish. I was astonished to hear the Portuguese sounds like Russian! Maybe because of all the "sh" sounds. Here they are; the photo was taken on the tour bus of town the second and last day of their visit.<br />
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The first part of the visit was of course the ceremonial part. Held in the Angela Peralta, the main theater in town, we were subjected to innumerable speeches welcoming the guests and praising international friendship. I learned that in these circumstances a speaker must first recognize and thank the various dignitaries seated on the stage, individually, at length, before going through the welcome rigamarole. Surrounding the dignitaries were teenagers standing stiffly at attention as they held the flags of the nations represented. At the end of all the speeches -- phew! -- they filed out while the dignitaries saluted the flag(s!) in a different way than we do: the right arm is bent at a 90-degree angle and held horizontally over the chest. To me it looked horrendously militaristic, but then maybe the US flag salute would look the same way to them.<br />
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Leaving the theater there was a dais set up for the Official Picture. Note that the group was augmented by the local beauty queen, Señorita San Miguel, at left.<br />
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Following the Official Picture, all the ambassadors paraded through town behind a sign of their country and a flag, preceded by honored high school girls. Catarina, the attaché, was wearing heels of suicidal height, and on the cobblestones that was more of a challenge than she had counted on. I decided for the evening that I would be Portuguese, and walked with them. The word for this kind of a parade in Spanish is <i>una callejonada</i>, a group stroll through the streets. It's also commonly done after weddings and such, and is one of the wonderful ways in Mexico that the private is lived publicly. <br />
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At the end of the <i>callejonada</i> we arrived at the Church of San Francisco, to my mind the most beautiful church in San Miguel and the same one where Rick and I attended a wedding last summer. Before arriving in the church we walked through an honor welcome guard of drummers and trumpet players. Pretty loud! Note the sex segregation in the roles, by the way, with the parade folks girls and the musicians boys.<br />
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In the church there was a concert performed in their honor, open to anyone who wanted to attend. <br />
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I had a good time and would do it again next year, although unlike the friends I made with the opera folks in February, these folks will not become friends. It's okay: the luck of the draw.<br />
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My other activities are also progressing. At the Santa Julia orphanage, several young Mexican women have offered to talk to the girls as part of the role model program I cooked up for them. They have been interviewed and scheduled; their presentations should start soon.<br />
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And my adult education program has just recently gone public, as I have started advertising for instructors to teach two or three courses in the pilot of the program in October. I've had a good number of requests for information and have already received one complete application from a man who wants to teach a course on "The Conquest of Mexico [1521]: How 400 Spaniards Conquered the Aztec Empire." Looks interesting!<br />
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However, I'm learning some disquieting things about the bureaucratic requirements for such a program. I've learned that technically instructors, even volunteer instructors, even instructors who teach a really short-term course, need to have official permission to work attached to their visas, which costs 2200 pesos per person, or almost $200 US dollars. Obviously impossible. So I'll have to spend some time finding out if a work-around is possible. I'll ignore the requirement for the October pilot (are they going to throw me in jail?), but if I can't figure out a solution I don't see how the program will be viable in the future. Well, one thing at a time.<br />
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Fortunately this summer has not been as hot as last summer, when it was in the mid- to high 90s every day for weeks on end. It's been generally around 90, which is bearable, and this house has such a lovely breeze -- and of course the pool is <i>such</i> a blessing! -- that the heat hasn't been onerous at all. As opposed to last summer, when I really suffered. <br />
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Life is terrific. I am reading, sewing, listening to
music, seeing friends, attending lectures and movies -- all is good. <br />
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<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5808785827455958131.post-34563656888464611162012-04-26T10:17:00.000-07:002012-04-26T10:20:28.133-07:00April 26, 2012Hello, everyone<br />
<br />
I haven't written this blog for over four months because Rick and I are divorcing, never an easy time. However, we have worked out our differences and are now changing our relationship from bad spouses to good friends. Under the circumstances we've agreed it's better not to live as close to each other as we have been, so he is looking for another place to live. In the meantime, we are fine here, and neither one of us would consider moving back to the United States. You would not believe the number of people who have told me they are happier in San Miguel than they have ever been in their entire lives. And for good reason.<br />
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But despite all the emotional upheaval, life has not stopped and San Miguel is wonderful as always. I read a story recently that in one way captures a truth about Mexico that often puzzles Americans.<br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia;">THE MEXICAN FISHERMAN STORY</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia;">An American investment banker was on the
beach of a small coastal Mexican village when a small boat with just one
fisherman came ashore. Inside the small boat were several large yellow-fin tuna.
The American complimented the Mexican on the quality of his fish and asked how
long it took to catch them. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia;">The Mexican replied, "Only a little
while." </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia;">The American then asked why didn't he
stay out longer and catch more fish? </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia;">The Mexican said he had enough to support
his family's immediate needs. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia;">The American then asked, "But what
do you do with the rest of your time?" </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia;">The Mexican fisherman said, "I sleep
late, fish a little, play with my children, take siestas with my wife, Maria,
stroll into the village each evening where I sip wine, and play guitar with my
amigos. I have a full and busy life." </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia;">The American scoffed, "I am a
Harvard MBA and could help you. You should spend more time fishing and with the
proceeds, buy a bigger boat. With the proceeds from the bigger boat, you could
buy several boats; eventually you would have a fleet of fishing boats. Instead
of selling your catch to a middleman you would sell directly to the processor,
eventually opening your own cannery. You would control the product, processing,
and distribution. You would leave this village
and move to Mexico City, then LA and eventually New York City, where you will
run your expanding enterprise." </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia;">The Mexican fisherman asked, "But,
how long will this all take?" </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia;">To which the American replied, "15 -
20 years." </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia;">"But what then?", asked the
Mexican. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia;">The American laughed and said,
"That's the best part. When the time is right you would announce an IPO
and sell your company stock to the public and become very rich. You would make
millions!" </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia;">"Millions - then what?" </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia;">The American said, "Then you would
retire. Move to a small coastal fishing village where you would sleep late,
fish a little, play with your kids, take siestas with your wife, stroll to the
village in the evenings where you could sip wine and play your guitar with your
amigos." </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia;"> ___________________________________</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia;">It is true that Mexicans seem to value family and friends over work and obligations, which I find lovely. And it's also lovely that much of the time they spend with family and friends is spent in public, in the Jardin, on the stoop of the house, at the neighborhood taco stand. The town pulses with life every evening. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia;">But in another way the story is absolutely untrue. Mexicans are the hardest-working people I know. I saw it among the workers who built my house, and often I see people doing astonishing hard physical work for many hours on end. One of the reasons many streets here are cobblestoned, aside from the fact that San Miguel is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and therefore can't pave over the old colonial cobblestoned streets, is that paving a street with cobblestones provides more employment than paving it with asphalt. (Too bad for the cars and the walkers!) I once saw workers building an overpass over a road, and they hauled up a huge boulder with a pulley system. It took many men to do that. At times like these I am reminded that Mexico, while gaining more and more of a middle class, is in part a third-world country.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia;">I have been busy with various projects in the last few months, partly for mental health purposes but partly for the pleasure of it all. One of the best things is that I have been volunteering with Pro Musica, the classical music organization in San Miguel that brings often superb chamber musicians to town for concerts in a church. I edit the program notes for them. In February Pro Musica put on San Miguel's first staged opera in our small theater, a real production challenge. They chose to do Tosca. It was entirely a Mexican production, singers and production staff, all professionals, and my role was to find housing for them in local homes. As a result, I corresponded with them all so that by the time they got here it felt like I was welcoming friends. Several of them stayed in my guest room at various times, and during the week leading up to the performances in February three of the singers had breakfast here every morning. I had dinner with them one night and went to a terrific party with them another night, where they took turns singing for fun. The opera itself turned out to be a pretty lousy production, actually, but the music was good and I have made marvelous new friends. La Bohème will be presented next February, and meetings for that have already started.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia;">One new friend is the basso profundo, Charlie Oppenheim, who is bilingual and also publishes Mexico's version of <i>Opera News</i>, <i>Pro Opera</i>. You can hear him sing on YouTube, including a marvelous "Old Man River" (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LoG-JG8PdWo). I spent a day with him in February in Mexico City, where I was privileged to hear him sing in a stripped-down hour-long children's version of Mozart's opera, The Magic Flute, in part of the National Auditorium Building. It was absolutely brilliant. It was held in an enormous room, tiered like a regular auditorium, but the tiers were 10 or 12 feet wide. At the front of the tiers were small cocktail-size tables with four chairs, and in back of the tables and chairs was where people walked. There must have been a thousand people, and I didn't see one empty chair. Food was available so parents went to the snack bar and brought back food and drink for the kids. No one minded the constant low hum of children's talking and laughing. Papageno and Papagena were played by life-size puppets (with the singers standing next to them), and the woods were shown in animation projected from behind on a screen. It was sung by professional Mexican opera singers in German, with super-titles in Spanish that parents read to small kids. This was only one of half a dozen children's operas presented each year, and tickets are cheap -- 250 pesos for adults, about $21, and 150 pesos for kids. Now if we could do this in the US, we'd be able to stop moaning about the lack of a next generation that loves classical music.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia;">Another project is that I helped the director of the girls' orphanage here cook up a role model program for the girls. There are about 35 girls who live in Hogar Santa Julia (Santa Julia Home); many of them are not in fact orphans but are kids whose homes were so toxic that they were brought to the orphanage. A big problem is that as girls reach the age of 18 they often don't want to live in a "little kids'" home and they do want to live in a real family. When they choose to return to their families of origin the result is usually a disaster, with the same dysfunctions as before and now still another mouth to feed. The girls all go to school while they are in the orphanage, but early educational deficits are often hard to make up and they don't have many examples of people like them who have managed to overcome tough early lives. So I suggested a low effort-level role model program: young women ages 16-25 who have indeed overcome tough early lives and have managed to make something good of their lives. Young women will come in for an hour or so hopefully each week to speak to the girls, and will receive a small honorarium, and will in this way broaden the girls' horizons with more possibilities for their lives. After all, you can't become something you never heard of. I figured it would be easier to get more young women to commit to one hour than to a continuing "Big Sister" mentorship type of thing. This program should be starting in the next month or so.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia;">My adult education program, which you might remember from last year, has been resurrected. I will pilot it in October in a classroom at Café Contento -- those of you who have been to San Miguel might remember it as the café across Hernandez Macias from Bellas Artes. That will be a good place for a pilot but not a good permanent place, because I will need, besides a classroom or two, administrative support and a web page that permits visitors to pre-register. Publicity will start in June, when I will be looking for instructors to teach two or three courses in October. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia;">And my last little project is getting involved </span><span style="font-family: Georgia;">next month with a</span><span style="font-family: Georgia;"> program which every year hosts ambassadors to Mexico from 15 or 20 countries for a week in San Miguel, some sort of brotherhood thing or for all I know just a junket. Funding comes from the state and national governments. I vaguely remember reading about it last year in the paper. I saw an announcement that they were looking for local sponsors, and I thought that would be fun. I managed to get the only French-speaking ambassador, a man from Morocco of all places, which Rick and I visited three years ago in a great home exchange, so my French will get a booster shot. Apparently as a sponsor I get to accompany them to all sorts of classy events for a weekend, maybe more, and show them around town. What could be bad?</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia;">My final offering is a lesson in how to make <i>churros</i>, those delicious and horrendously fattening things you can get for a dollar each at Costco: a fried strip of dough covered with cinnamon and sugar. Near the place where several buses stop near the Biblioteca there is often a stand where a couple makes and sells <i>churros</i>. I was fascinated by the process.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia;">First, the man extrudes the dough by a hand crank from a metal container at the top of the stand, which is he doing in the photo above. Next, he deep-fries the strips.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia;">Last, he passes the hot strips of fried dough to his wife, who dunks them in a cinnamon-sugar mixture and places them on absorbent paper, below. Then they are sold in a paper bag, hot and totally delicious, 10 for 10 pesos, about 80 cents for the bag. Superb.</span></div>
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</div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5808785827455958131.post-37035017653217917402011-12-17T19:25:00.000-08:002011-12-17T19:43:29.413-08:00December 17<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div>Hola!<br />
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If you've been following this blog you know that I haven't traveled much in Mexico since I moved here nearly a year ago. I went to Mexico City for a couple of days, but that was it until I went with my friend Natalie to Mazatlan. Mazatlan is on the Pacific Ocean north of Puerta Vallarta and nearly due east from Cabo San Lucas at the bottom of the Baja California peninsula. It was a ten-hour drive by highway (expensive highway! about $100 in tolls one way!) from San Miguel.<br />
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On the way there we stopped in Tequila — yes, that's why it's called tequila — so that Natalie could buy her annual supply, which is much cheaper than in the stores. The vendor gives you tastes of different types of tequila, all of which tasted like medicine to me, and then pours your choices into clean, empty, unmarked containers. Vendors were lined up one after another in their open-air shops on the road into town. <br />
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Natalie has two weeks a year of a timeshare in a resort called Pueblo Bonito, 20 km. north of the city on the ocean. Posh doesn't begin to describe it. The apartments have crown molding, marble bathrooms, high ceilings, very large rooms, and a terrace overlooking the ocean. Here is the view from our terrace.<br />
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It was fascinating to study the design of this place. All of the walkways were curved: some designer determined that straight lines don't go with luxury. In and around the lobby were huge aviaries with brilliantly colored parrots, peacocks — white as well as the usual emerald, and other birds that provided lovely bird music. The grass was apparently cut with manicure scissors, blade by blade. On the grounds were swans and flamingos. These flamingos were sleeping, the head tucked under a wing, one leg tucked under a body. How come they don't fall over?<br />
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The beach was actually the only less-than-perfect part. At low tide you could see all the rocks in the water, not very inviting for a dip. The beach sloped down steeply (you can see that in the picture above with me and Natalie), and the lounge chairs were hard plastic that hurt my butt. But the beach was more-than-perfect for looking at.<br />
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Pueblo Bonito had four or five restaurants, most very pricey, and a little store where you could buy groceries if you wanted to cook in the apartments (cooktop, microwave, coffee maker, blender for margaritas, toaster, pots, dishes, silverware). The prices at the little store were breathtakingly expensive, and in fact if you weren't careful you could spend a wild fortune. One night we went into the bar, oops, excuse me, the lounge, and made the mistake of having a glass of wine without asking the price. 135 pesos: $10 at the best exchange rate. Plus tip. It was very good that we drove because we could bring kitchen supplies with us, which we used often.<br />
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Mazatlán has about half a million people, including about 10,000 Americans and Canadians. Many of them leave in the summer, when the heat and humidity are brutal. Because of the heat and the salty air, the buildings are in worse shape than in San Miguel, needing but not always getting new paint every other year. The city is stretched out along a few miles of coastline, there is a wide promenade along the entire length, and there are many casual restaurants on the beach under palm-frond palapa roofs. The beach there is perfect. Tourist-related business is bad ever since the American cruise ship lines cancelled Mazatlan as a stop earlier this year after some violence there. We saw a number of closed businesses, although Natalie, who has been visiting annually for eight years, says that closed businesses and turnover are standard.<br />
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Mazatlán is the shrimp capital of Mexico, and Natalie knew where the shrimp market was: a dozen or so women who sell just-caught shellfish from large plastic tubs.<br />
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I gorged on shrimp all the time we were there: the prices were wonderful. Great big shrimp that in the US would cost $20 a pound, heads off, cost 110 pesos a kilo, less than $4 a pound. Now that I'm back, I checked the prices of shrimp that size at Mega, the supermarket I shop at: 350 pesos a kilo. Gives me a healthy appreciation for markup. And we bought fresh scallops, too. Natalie, who is a gourmet cook, had a way of serving them I didn't know, and loved. This is fine for an appetizer or a main dish.<br />
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<div style="text-align: center;"><b>Natalie's Scallops</b></div><br />
<div style="text-align: center;">Raw scallops</div><div style="text-align: center;">Sprinkle to taste with fresh lime juice, hot sauce, freshly ground pepper, and chopped parlsey</div><div style="text-align: center;"><br />
</div>And that's the recipe! Superb.<br />
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We went into Mazatlan most days. We had dinners out probably two-thirds of the time and went shopping. We also went to two performances, a modern dance and a symphony orchestra (the 1812 Overture and Mahler's First Symphony — wonderful noisy percussion in both), both of which were superb. The classical music concerts I go to here in San Miguel, like the otherwise excellent violin and piano concert earlier this evening, are attended it seems exclusively by gringos. An entirely expat audience feels to me like an artificial island set down in the middle of a living sea. Being a minority in the Mexican audience in Mazatlan felt very good, as if somehow the music and the whole concert experience were more real that way.<br />
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At the end of the Mahler concert on Saturday night — box seats for 250 pesos, about $19, the refurbished Machado Square on which the concert hall is located was brimming with people in restaurants, live music, vendors of about 5 million pairs of earrings and necklaces, and throngs of people having a wonderful time. <br />
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The modern dance concert in Mazatlan was free, and Natalie and I were astonished that a free concert would be of such high caliber. As we were talking about this after the performance, a man in his 20s overheard us and explained with evident pride and in very good English that the Sinaloa state government sponsored performances like this to promote culture among the citizens. I loved that he was so young and that he cared enough about something I'd imagine few of his counterparts in the US would care about to explain it to us. And it was also good associating the name Sinaloa with cultural life instead of a drug cartel.<br />
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Both concerts we went to were held in a refurbished historic hall, El Teatro Angela Peralta. This theater is as important to Mazatlan as Carnegie Hall is to New York, both of them resurrected from abandonment and transformed into something beautiful. Angela Peralta was a Mexican soprano, 1845-1883, who had a stellar international career and died at age 38 in Mazatlan after a concert at the hall, then named something else. The story is that she married her lover on her deathbed, very romantic, but there remains a question about whether she was conscious when she did so. More than one theater in Mexico is named after her, including ours here in San Miguel. <br />
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We went to the Mazatlan aquarium, where I got to kiss a sea lion in the sea lion show and stroke a parrot in the bird show. I also said hello to a crocodile, who was obviously saying hello back.<br />
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And on this trip I also got to meet an iguana up close! It has dry warm skin like a snake.<br />
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The shell shop in town had an enormous pool on its second floor: you can extrapolate from the shallow curve how big this pool is. Koi were swimming happily in an environment I wouldn't have associated with them, a blue-tiled pool with water maybe 8" deep. (Although how do I know? Maybe the koi die every night and are replaced every morning.) The outside of the pool was beautifully covered with an intricate mosaic made out of dozens of kinds of shells. <br />
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One day we had lunch at a restaurant, La Puntilla, near the port. We watched the fish in the harbor jumping joyously out of the water and back in again. Well, "joyously" is my interpretation. Here is the view from our table.<br />
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All in all, a marvelous trip! <br />
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Back home in San Miguel, I saw the electric garage door opener that had been installed while I was away. I had made a big point of insisting that there be no garage-door support structure overhead to block the view one gets of the jacaranda trees and the bougainvillea coming in the front door. Gerardo, the contractor, had suggested that instead of the usual door that pulls up overhead which would require a big armature right smack in the way of the sight line, that we have two doors opening out from the middle. Brilliant solution!<br />
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The people who came to install the opener said that a big overhead iron structure, parallel to the front wall and stretching from the casita to the casa walls, was necessary even for outward-opening doors. Rick was here, thank goodness, and he and Gerardo called me. I asked Gerardo to tell the installers that he had an impossible client who absolutely refused to do it that way and insisted that they find a better way to do it. Blame me: I have broad shoulders!<br />
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And the squeaky wheel got the oil! Here is the structure that was installed, supported from above and not from side to side. I took this picture leaning against the casa wall; Rick's casita is on the other side. When you come in the front door you see the trees, not the structure. The doors open smoothly, silently, and perfectly. And every time I see the craftsmanship of the woodwork, I marvel anew.<br />
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</a></div>The weather is definitely cooler at night now, so since I got back six days ago I've been sleeping in the bedroom and not on the sleeping porch. The stone/cement houses are cool and the night-time temperatures are in the low 50s or upper 40s, so when you get up in the morning you put on warm clothes. And then you go out in the afternoon and are hot because the sunshine is warm and the temperature is in the 70s. Or you wear light clothes for outside and are cold when you come inside. I am having a hard time remembering that when I go out at 4:30 while the sun is still shining and it's nice and warm out, and will come home two or three hours later, as I did tonight with the chamber music concert that started at 5:00, the temperature plunges a good 10 to 15 degrees as soon as the sun goes down. Brrrr!<br />
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Mexican houses don't have central heating (or double-pane insulated windows or doors) but instead have gas heaters. Poor houses have no heat source at all, and people bundle up. It's a progression from heating the whole house to heating a room to heating the person. In my house I have two original gas heaters about 18" by 30", attached to the walls in the living room and the study. I have no idea how old they are. Here's one.<br />
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To make them work, you first turn the valve (bottom right) that opens the gas line. Then you turn a knob (that you can't see on the top) to "pilot." Then you hold this knob down to make the gas flow and press a button, hard, to create an ignition spark. If all goes well you get a small pilot flame. Then you turn the knob past pilot to low/medium/high heat, and the gas burns over less or more of the white grill space accordingly. This is an open fire, in a house! It looks so dangerous, but I guess I'll get used to it. And of course it's like a fireplace with the heat from one localized source, not nice all-over heat from baseboards or multiple floor vents. Oh well, nothing is perfect. But what compensations, like the fireworks I hear outside right now. People are enjoying themselves, and that happiness is contagious.<br />
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</a></div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5808785827455958131.post-7350184565924090712011-11-26T13:55:00.000-08:002011-11-26T14:01:30.749-08:00November 26I hope you all had a wonderful Thanksgiving! Here in San Miguel restaurants were running ads in Atención, the weekly bilingual paper, for Thanksgiving dinner for three weeks in advance. Depending on the restaurant, many owned by gringos, the cost ranged from 200 pesos to well upward of 1,000 pesos. (The exchange rate lately is terrific, about 13.75 pesos to the dollar.)<br />
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We had company this past week -- our friends from Seattle Marja, her partner Rob, and two of their kids, Anja and Peace. The place is so roomy that we could have slept even more people than that! Of course there was a parade, as there often is. Here's Marja and Anja at the parade, camera in hand.<br />
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Our adventure of the week was to go horseback riding. I hadn't been on a horse in 25 years, but no problem! It was the very best way to see the countryside, which is pretty dry now that the rainy season is over, but very beautiful. At one point we were way above San Miguel, maybe 1,000 or 1,500 feet higher, and the altitude of San Miguel is 6,500 feet. We passed just a few feet from the nose of a fierce-looking bull, past lots of cows, pigs, chickens, and at every house several barking dogs. In each case our horses said "Ho hum, so what's new?" The woman who owns the service -- get this, an escapee from corporate life in Hoboken, New Jersey -- called the saddles "Western" but they had handholds in back as well as in front: is this a Western saddle? Such an expert I am. Here's rough-rider Jo!<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8Fvt9-cN6y59kDWV5vB2NX7Qj0-wa2Bwk_TupXQSYt9q_AnENqm-bwA5CZ8gqdI5kelJSaDoZnvBc9r_hzyxsvOoB8fkjk_lQIjhcEjYSDMePmShRAY3Bu9491qg80-xpzBorcd5AOrM/s1600/IMG_0059.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8Fvt9-cN6y59kDWV5vB2NX7Qj0-wa2Bwk_TupXQSYt9q_AnENqm-bwA5CZ8gqdI5kelJSaDoZnvBc9r_hzyxsvOoB8fkjk_lQIjhcEjYSDMePmShRAY3Bu9491qg80-xpzBorcd5AOrM/s400/IMG_0059.jpg" width="300" /></a></div><br />
Marja sure looked comfortable on her horse.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-d4_QYQuGX776nHwhNIx3DcNf4Wo3bpuSK20ooZM1nKV4EktwS5y9Wm1CV7t9rBLzL9Nke6xQNgHFEKqAGyV6jTpRTcIwsdOIpWCOJ3pSZPh3RZe2ERvwCFcfjGfqhFK_Vx0MNMIYUPk/s1600/IMG_0034.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-d4_QYQuGX776nHwhNIx3DcNf4Wo3bpuSK20ooZM1nKV4EktwS5y9Wm1CV7t9rBLzL9Nke6xQNgHFEKqAGyV6jTpRTcIwsdOIpWCOJ3pSZPh3RZe2ERvwCFcfjGfqhFK_Vx0MNMIYUPk/s400/IMG_0034.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><br />
We passed several old chapels, naturally, this being Mexico. One of them, more than 200 years old, was in ruins. Several of us were led inside on horseback, to look at the paintings still on the walls. Here is Anja. The cowboys who accompanied us were thrilled to have such a good-looking girl on the trip with them: she sure had a great opportunity to practice her Spanish!<br />
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It was close to a four-hour ride and let me tell you, horseback riding at age 68 isn't quite the same as at 43. Stiff doesn't begin to describe it. But I am glad I went: it was such beautiful scenery, and the way the <i>campo</i> (countryside) smells at twilight is extraordinary. <br />
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And the palapa (paLOPa) on the roof is finished, except for the dumbwaiter. Marja gave up trying to pronounce it and called it the papaya, which sounds fine to me. I am absolutely thrilled at the color, a sea green/turquoise.<br />
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This is what it's like inside the palapa. It has three sides and the fourth side is open to the view.<br />
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And this is what you see if you turn around, a 180-degree view of San Miguel and the hills beyond. For those of you who know San Miguel, the pointy orangish thing in the top center is the Parroquia, and the round dome to its left is the church on Canal at the top of Zacateros.<br />
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The iron work around the entire roof was a bit pricey, but it was essential. The "wall" was 8 inches high and this is after all the third floor. Although I guess it would have been possible to dive off the wall you see in the picture and make a soft landing in the pool below.<br />
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Our Thanksgiving dinner was marvelous fun, although I have to say that without Marja who helped so much with cooking and cleaning up it wouldn't have been nearly as much fun. This being San Miguel we had friends and friends of friends. It nearly was a disaster. I picked up my turkey (fresh, 22 pounds, a gringo price of about 850 pesos, about $65, but hey, it's once a year) that morning: the store has a bigger refrigerator than I do so I asked them to keep it until the last minute. When I got there the store owner, a sweet Israeli guy from whom I get my Passover seder foods too, told me that the electrical circuit the refrigerator was on had died the day before, so he put the turkeys in the freezer. No problem, he assured me: it's not very frozen and it will thaw out in an hour. Well, it was a lot more frozen than he thought. We defrosted it in water in the sink for hours but it was so big that when we put it in the oven the insides were still colder than the outsides, so it didn't cook evenly. Oh well, there was Marja's good gravy for the dry parts.<br />
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Natalie, the friend with whom I went to Mexico City for a few days last month, invited me to spend two weeks with her at a timeshare apartment she has in Mazatlan, a city to the northwest of here. On the beach! With shade! And just when I think nothing could be better than this, she tells me that this place is at a five-star resort. We leave tomorrow morning. How many different pictures of the ocean and the sand and the sunshine can I take, do you think? Happy November and December, y'all!<br />
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</a></div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5808785827455958131.post-22846822639008427552011-11-13T09:48:00.000-08:002011-11-13T13:07:30.295-08:00November 13<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">It is very interesting living in a construction site! Every weekday morning the workers come at 8 AM -- it used to be 9 AM before we lost Daylight Saving Time. I wake up to the sounds of pounding, hammering, and the talk and laughter of the workers. It it truly a happy environment. They have done a phenomenal amount of work since my last construction report, and I am really thrilled with the workmanship. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Here, for example, are some of the gorgeous things the carpenter, Balthazar, has made. All the doors and cabinets are hand-made of solid alder; you can see where he cut the wood on the left for the FOUR hinges, not two like usual doors. I am surprised that this wood is available here, because it's from the Pacific Northwest. Some of you might have seen the little table I made a couple of years ago in a woodworking class, also made of alder, so watching him work with this wood was more than usually special for me.</div><br />
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The cabinets in Rick's kitchen, with frosted glass. <br />
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The garage door and the entrance door (my design), made out of oak; the iron structure can be seen from the inside. Balthazar worked all weekend before our Monday housewarming party to finish these doors. I love the deep rich red against the cream of the wall. <br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5jetnKYqWLDSQ3qfAKt1I8XjNOm3eVqK_c3kBcD1fWIcwREBFiDewdGzChH6d-NoHmUdzrcH6QxbQhvs0dpVyUGgWPqLSG-UOUjcfLdC02BYQQcVUFbhI1UkBK4Nl0Ie6YTMlE6iBH9E/s1600/IMG_0039.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5jetnKYqWLDSQ3qfAKt1I8XjNOm3eVqK_c3kBcD1fWIcwREBFiDewdGzChH6d-NoHmUdzrcH6QxbQhvs0dpVyUGgWPqLSG-UOUjcfLdC02BYQQcVUFbhI1UkBK4Nl0Ie6YTMlE6iBH9E/s320/IMG_0039.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br />
And the pool is finished! Gerardo, the contractor, proposed a ladder. I refused because I am designing this place for when we are old, old, old: old people can't do ladders out of a pool! So Gerardo designed these steps. The steps and the columns supporting them are made of concrete and then covered with the small blue glass tiles. Aren't they beautiful?<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicJHjnSvWVS8Ay4aYacVw_tG7O3wPsoHR42bD6gEJhIVIPy8Th0wLtZz3WBT0ZM_mqTjzWMIO-dUdJYNrcduns5eZMl6SRR0lv67SYX4VU4Yw8vwWQlwoLMGxIAR-9UECycE9i6AWyDVI/s1600/IMG_0032.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicJHjnSvWVS8Ay4aYacVw_tG7O3wPsoHR42bD6gEJhIVIPy8Th0wLtZz3WBT0ZM_mqTjzWMIO-dUdJYNrcduns5eZMl6SRR0lv67SYX4VU4Yw8vwWQlwoLMGxIAR-9UECycE9i6AWyDVI/s320/IMG_0032.JPG" width="240" /></a></div><br />
In the picture above and below you can see the bench. Pedro, the <i>maestro</i> or foreman, sat me on a chair and measured up from the level of the chair to a comfortable place for the water to come up to, and that's how he set the height of the bench. It fits me perfectly. As it turns out, the floor of the pool fits Rick perfectly; I have to stand on my tippy-toes to reach the bottom.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWB92Cfz4sKQXsxA4rrLZahIEz-2EvdksgRE1rS5k8-OIrtsUVGJ1M7Gvm2mj8C95AqfcGc6wvE4jafOBvtfXdna_PL6UM3_O88Yd1ywjFPnJzuY_m5FpAUBf7G3_WTQ82lH-SzYlyYms/s1600/IMG_0031.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWB92Cfz4sKQXsxA4rrLZahIEz-2EvdksgRE1rS5k8-OIrtsUVGJ1M7Gvm2mj8C95AqfcGc6wvE4jafOBvtfXdna_PL6UM3_O88Yd1ywjFPnJzuY_m5FpAUBf7G3_WTQ82lH-SzYlyYms/s320/IMG_0031.JPG" width="240" /></a></div><br />
Here you see the pool starting to be filled. It took two large trucks of water — 28 cubic meters — to fill the pool. We did not fill it with house water because the building department warned Gerardo not to do that. Why? Because, they said, the water department will know from the sudden huge water use that you're building a pool. They'll make you get a permit for it and that's so much hassle! An amazing country.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0vPJXs0gBVMqbq40kPvEz5UmtQMKzexhwL2g8lCKyEJCtyh1fM1X9aB0S3rqOT6x9BOjTQQTAjX3fIt6p4A5xZ6DgiXe5K8i10VlrQpH9wtHjfs33ilmF1UsCXTnnYckF3P5W2C7TDAg/s1600/IMG_0034.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0vPJXs0gBVMqbq40kPvEz5UmtQMKzexhwL2g8lCKyEJCtyh1fM1X9aB0S3rqOT6x9BOjTQQTAjX3fIt6p4A5xZ6DgiXe5K8i10VlrQpH9wtHjfs33ilmF1UsCXTnnYckF3P5W2C7TDAg/s320/IMG_0034.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br />
And here is the filled pool. It has two beautiful underwater lights for nighttime swimming. I tried to take a picture of that for you but it didn't work well. As you can imagine, we went into it the first night it was filled. Heaven! <br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhC-QbS8StExCNyobjqcvKjzEJwyJ6PVcZ2FUzSFYfCA6HrDmT4i6X0LX1OA113uyRYYBfKKLUq5115d4bO9-SPwxAmBj4Q8G-BpcFcCtHbhSuZ6k7rVyE8GPbYpAnqkd1bxvb17HTwDvo/s1600/IMG_0043.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhC-QbS8StExCNyobjqcvKjzEJwyJ6PVcZ2FUzSFYfCA6HrDmT4i6X0LX1OA113uyRYYBfKKLUq5115d4bO9-SPwxAmBj4Q8G-BpcFcCtHbhSuZ6k7rVyE8GPbYpAnqkd1bxvb17HTwDvo/s320/IMG_0043.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br />
It is starting to get cool now, with days in the 70s and nights usually in the 50s (perfect sleeping-porch weather!). We have installed passive solar heaters for the pool water, four huge ones (4 meters by 2.5 meters) consisting of metal pipes the water is pumped through, set up on Rick's roof. We had to cut away some of a jacaranda tree to give them enough sunlight, which hurt but was necessary. I took this picture from the second floor of my house; you can see the first panel and will have to imagine the other three behind it. <br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_KdwNUZmvFlh0l4UxstLadALAT27W4DDO_5WniPzt703Ae12t8lM5omoCFhUECnkyEYgUtBL-y1QeXjV-fwFK0fntS2F57L8KD0mi6vMQI02TlEI8DZc8YgowTnt8F_Hz62BPlp9i480/s1600/IMG_0044.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_KdwNUZmvFlh0l4UxstLadALAT27W4DDO_5WniPzt703Ae12t8lM5omoCFhUECnkyEYgUtBL-y1QeXjV-fwFK0fntS2F57L8KD0mi6vMQI02TlEI8DZc8YgowTnt8F_Hz62BPlp9i480/s320/IMG_0044.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br />
You can see the smaller <i>tinaco</i> (water tank) at the left of the big one. The smaller one holds the water that has been warmed in the pipes and sends it to the pool. The four solar panels are connected together.<br />
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Another thing that is finished is your guest room. I think you'll be very comfortable here!<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkaJhcnxp_ddE6HWqP0Pxej_lejKdHoxlopJt3M5y7agGBs0b9iUkiLegq5U0rkv1iGSw3GBzpLC876xTuIXbM5Zk7XwDu-J0e4MQ_u1Filnj5jHuYqrBisSdVzU3BVbdzFYWu4LmwdGE/s1600/IMG_0041.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkaJhcnxp_ddE6HWqP0Pxej_lejKdHoxlopJt3M5y7agGBs0b9iUkiLegq5U0rkv1iGSw3GBzpLC876xTuIXbM5Zk7XwDu-J0e4MQ_u1Filnj5jHuYqrBisSdVzU3BVbdzFYWu4LmwdGE/s320/IMG_0041.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3apNT7oUyPKLHvDdI2d0QeNIRHSBy7cRAGsPgPkN_G1HP03ycxDTVcJB4WAzoSs213uyg2wrorNIt6iCZq6XBAWDa_MR52pHcockm4IQKDXbORA0t5c94bfBDFA4Buf9dFLgzJqsOQtw/s1600/IMG_0042.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3apNT7oUyPKLHvDdI2d0QeNIRHSBy7cRAGsPgPkN_G1HP03ycxDTVcJB4WAzoSs213uyg2wrorNIt6iCZq6XBAWDa_MR52pHcockm4IQKDXbORA0t5c94bfBDFA4Buf9dFLgzJqsOQtw/s320/IMG_0042.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br />
The last major thing being built is the <i>palapa</i>. This is a structure often found on houses in Mexico, essentially a space on a roof with its own roof for shade to enable you to enjoy the scenery. The view from the roof of my house is spectacular, overlooking Centro San Miguel and the hills beyond. Here you see the iron worker, Alfredo, beginning to assemble the structure of the <i>palapa</i>. I designed it to be wide in front and narrow in back, to open to the view.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkaJhcnxp_ddE6HWqP0Pxej_lejKdHoxlopJt3M5y7agGBs0b9iUkiLegq5U0rkv1iGSw3GBzpLC876xTuIXbM5Zk7XwDu-J0e4MQ_u1Filnj5jHuYqrBisSdVzU3BVbdzFYWu4LmwdGE/s1600/IMG_0041.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieOcjFWvgmY12WTIpXEuOf99E0oaOlUo07B7zP725u9-h2RknWKcCkbwIw5Zi-jDUVkctTfZ6Rs5diMrPz0pa-hW_0cqQ8ZIFraOvxEXDHJPb-jB7AfAWioZJhCoUPIvDtEIhfPoF09fs/s1600/IMG_0029.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieOcjFWvgmY12WTIpXEuOf99E0oaOlUo07B7zP725u9-h2RknWKcCkbwIw5Zi-jDUVkctTfZ6Rs5diMrPz0pa-hW_0cqQ8ZIFraOvxEXDHJPb-jB7AfAWioZJhCoUPIvDtEIhfPoF09fs/s320/IMG_0029.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">We decided to build partial walls partly for shade since the back of the <i>palapa</i> is to the south, and partly as a windbreak, because especially in the late afternoon it gets pretty breezy. Gerardo insists that the roof tiles are Mexican tiles, not Spanish tiles! You can see how the <i>palapa</i> is wider in front and some of the iron work in the front. I have been happily planning the color for the walls. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaNPxEEnDjkpkof_3IW-wAyUz2E742AhgXtUF4TB7vIYkriRJg9DEURjXOVKceqQb95Dm7QYj5RV91PsiU3kf0FRqrwb4SEkx2NJtZUmBsLhtTaustoRCKLLyGjHWa0upW9HxoDhk0Qds/s1600/IMG_0045.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaNPxEEnDjkpkof_3IW-wAyUz2E742AhgXtUF4TB7vIYkriRJg9DEURjXOVKceqQb95Dm7QYj5RV91PsiU3kf0FRqrwb4SEkx2NJtZUmBsLhtTaustoRCKLLyGjHWa0upW9HxoDhk0Qds/s320/IMG_0045.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Still to come is a dumbwaiter for the <i>palapa</i>. (And of course there's half a page of little details that need seeing to before everyone calls it quits on the construction.) To reach the <i>palapa</i> one climbs up normal stairs to the second floor and then a spiral staircase (in Spanish <i>escalera de caracol</i>: snail stairs!) to the roof. I just know that the prospect of balancing drinks and snacks on a tray up a spiral staircase would discourage me from using the <i>palapa</i> entirely, so Gerardo and I have been designing an iron dumbwaiter from the patio in front of my house to the third floor in front of the <i>palapa</i>. We also need to install a railing around the entire roof for safety — you can see in the picture above that there is a tiny "wall" now maybe 6 inches high. I can't tell you how much fun I have had figuring out the dumbwaiter and the shape of the <i>palapa</i> and so many other things!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Half an hour after the pool was filled the first guests arrived for our housewarming party. It was a challenge planning the food and drink: I have discovered that "RSVP," even if translated, is a foreign concept for Mexicans. We didn't know if we were going to have 20 people or 60. As it happened, we had about 45 — about half friends and half workers and their families. There was no way we wanted to show off this beautiful place to our friends without the workers there to take credit for it. My only disappointment was that the Mexicans and the gringos pretty much stayed in separate groups. With the language barrier it's hard to avoid, but it still wasn't comfortable to see. However, I was completely thrilled at the appreciation of the loveliness that has been created here.</div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5808785827455958131.post-25057646460407430072011-10-31T20:27:00.000-07:002011-10-31T20:27:44.639-07:00October 31: A new meThis is just a quickie, but I have to share these pictures with you. Now that there are major changes in my life I have decided to take advantage of the situation and make even more changes.<br />
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For many years I have not worn makeup, and my hair has been gray for years as well. If I had worn makeup and dyed my hair, the change would have been to stop doing those things. And I assure you, I would have done that. But obviously all I could do was go in the other direction. So, here is a photo taken yesterday. <br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhL9EiEMug45IryZHFPBnbdqA1tfWCY7C0tlSEOTwl6sdoAoapy0TfjVGKFyRCvlJ8AiL_Rr1yx36vDD6gUMPqk6XJ9_g_e1WJmJf8Ipc_QjQG86KSYoId38YdcipVxKNJ0scIn92SY9g/s1600/IMG_0701.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhL9EiEMug45IryZHFPBnbdqA1tfWCY7C0tlSEOTwl6sdoAoapy0TfjVGKFyRCvlJ8AiL_Rr1yx36vDD6gUMPqk6XJ9_g_e1WJmJf8Ipc_QjQG86KSYoId38YdcipVxKNJ0scIn92SY9g/s320/IMG_0701.JPG" width="240" /></a></div><br />
And here are two photos taken this afternoon.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9KAKWqozUpEBsQp90Z3OJvIYP3TY5peounYwIveTCp2KokeAFqVbQ5RdjRWHH81q-4dYmtRn65L52Lz8IyKe-LCX_LVzvlGtlPc45EY2mIpAOxUs5i2Adx_VAeDhf3TkmpZE17oViifQ/s1600/IMG_0708.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9KAKWqozUpEBsQp90Z3OJvIYP3TY5peounYwIveTCp2KokeAFqVbQ5RdjRWHH81q-4dYmtRn65L52Lz8IyKe-LCX_LVzvlGtlPc45EY2mIpAOxUs5i2Adx_VAeDhf3TkmpZE17oViifQ/s320/IMG_0708.JPG" width="240" /></a></div><br />
Presto change-o!<br />
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Cheers!<br />
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JoUnknownnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5808785827455958131.post-23419094737584466092011-10-11T18:55:00.000-07:002011-10-11T19:15:48.541-07:00October 11<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEja5mkf__OmtpmVzrmXc2aY05wYaQRlA3JfqBBRBYHOX8uxSOkft4e5NOjO8NzKBuKlmdw6ioa_PDUBxFvE4hBPZ53dEPWZ_qvBWcji8mwySbaxpVD4w_x0jPtmGzAJ7zUxnk0zn6w7Drk/s1600/IMG_0685.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a>A day or two before we moved in (a couple of weeks ago), we hired a truck and a couple of men to load furniture. We went to Apaseo El Alto, a town about 50 miles from here where there are dozens and dozens of men -- never women as best as I could tell -- who make wooden furniture. From father to son to son to son ... We had many things to buy, for both casas and the guest room, and had we bought all that here in higher-priced San Miguel de Allende it would have cost a great deal more money. A month earlier we had ordered exactly what we wanted, all of it hand-carved, and picked it up just before we moved. Here's a photo of the truck being loaded.</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaOeVzuzMn_aTOXhVbo5TywdZsZBTOUbO-iek4Wuoy1dl-XEZ53hyIV9gierUoaIwsgH2Hl4i3sFIVFjASaR_M7JqA5JlxlfFXry60eWpPusE96phgJzPbay4tYTb2s_VNajzk2K7ix0Y/s1600/IMG_0643.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaOeVzuzMn_aTOXhVbo5TywdZsZBTOUbO-iek4Wuoy1dl-XEZ53hyIV9gierUoaIwsgH2Hl4i3sFIVFjASaR_M7JqA5JlxlfFXry60eWpPusE96phgJzPbay4tYTb2s_VNajzk2K7ix0Y/s320/IMG_0643.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br />
There was so much stuff! For my house alone there were eight dining room chairs, a coffee table and two end tables, a dresser, a cabinet for linens, and two bedsteads and two headboards (for my bedroom and my sleeping porch). More for the guest room, and some more for Rick's house. Here's the pattern I chose for your room — it's on the headboard and the wardrobe. Cheerful, no?<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjNvMvs_4tE5PbhhlU84UVkOivG9UaiHu4x7GeUoMqAQ4dlHNEjiLBQaU2L_IFLmHX-f4K1CkH_QEDX6U1sJvaY-eX-7-X4Nps6dbSBzVl-cSBRHoMtlo0j29GffOvyFDsjfB0XOFR0VY/s1600/IMG_0600.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjNvMvs_4tE5PbhhlU84UVkOivG9UaiHu4x7GeUoMqAQ4dlHNEjiLBQaU2L_IFLmHX-f4K1CkH_QEDX6U1sJvaY-eX-7-X4Nps6dbSBzVl-cSBRHoMtlo0j29GffOvyFDsjfB0XOFR0VY/s320/IMG_0600.JPG" width="240" /></a></div><br />
After we moved in -- and I'll spare you the sight of the chaos of boxes -- the workers are still working on the outside of the houses, on the front wall, among other things. Here's a photo of the wall being stuccoed, and then of the wall painted a beautiful deep red at the bottom and a cream at the top. We don't know much much of this 18-meter wall Béa and Stephan are going to want to use for their mural, but we remain thrilled that there will be a beautiful mural there.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnVCWzxpfLZT_nBpqLycNUcE1CEIJ2dnJjs2FFUYZE7Wz3EgmdPlkhy13Z5QjYRXZTACQOwv0J4enlb4g1JnYl0rKMQupCUjCeL7poevenjVHyWirQLTvJv3SPcq0YCj5I3K1txfoZmCg/s1600/IMG_0650.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnVCWzxpfLZT_nBpqLycNUcE1CEIJ2dnJjs2FFUYZE7Wz3EgmdPlkhy13Z5QjYRXZTACQOwv0J4enlb4g1JnYl0rKMQupCUjCeL7poevenjVHyWirQLTvJv3SPcq0YCj5I3K1txfoZmCg/s320/IMG_0650.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5hZGSIuLZxpj2V2hQPTq7kX2On_2ynNv4x0QiFDNiYpTbj1f-_iZwGji4MRWwTDvEjRL3R-0cWXSZT3w4F6MYyFejc76t6Fm523xnd6qcskmMvdICWt5UBIPmlNjTnqZUGuVL1X2tapU/s1600/IMG_0681.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5hZGSIuLZxpj2V2hQPTq7kX2On_2ynNv4x0QiFDNiYpTbj1f-_iZwGji4MRWwTDvEjRL3R-0cWXSZT3w4F6MYyFejc76t6Fm523xnd6qcskmMvdICWt5UBIPmlNjTnqZUGuVL1X2tapU/s320/IMG_0681.JPG" width="320" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaOeVzuzMn_aTOXhVbo5TywdZsZBTOUbO-iek4Wuoy1dl-XEZ53hyIV9gierUoaIwsgH2Hl4i3sFIVFjASaR_M7JqA5JlxlfFXry60eWpPusE96phgJzPbay4tYTb2s_VNajzk2K7ix0Y/s1600/IMG_0643.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a></div><br />
To give you an idea of what it <i>might</i> be like, here's a painting that the two of them painted together a couple of years ago. You can see San Miguel in the upper left.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHlm9l62pfQqmYfhP60HjdoWqx1jlUMK9i6OddEcW0uGvx2ELw-o5X-ZcPXjE8LY6b_s8rseN0oumP-oNWVcwb42DJ8oZpaX2xafq2MFg-dHaQb792HkkBbQ8IPbMBl79a8dt8_7MueTY/s1600/THIS+IS+SMA+1.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="272" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHlm9l62pfQqmYfhP60HjdoWqx1jlUMK9i6OddEcW0uGvx2ELw-o5X-ZcPXjE8LY6b_s8rseN0oumP-oNWVcwb42DJ8oZpaX2xafq2MFg-dHaQb792HkkBbQ8IPbMBl79a8dt8_7MueTY/s320/THIS+IS+SMA+1.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br />
Above the guest room is now a full laundry room, equally accessible to both of us. There's a fence in the front now.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">One of the great pleasures for me of being in this house is that I finally have a screened sleeping porch, a lifelong dream. Every morning I wake up enveloped in this beautiful jacaranda tree. In the spring it will be covered with lavender blossoms. The three cats sometimes snuggle under the down quilt with me.</div><br />
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The kitchen has also turned out to be beautiful. The lit area under the cabinets holds my kitchen appliances, so never again will I have to lift a heavy Mix-master from a bottom shelf!<br />
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The kitchen is a middle room with not one window, so I've put in skylights and opened the wall to the living room. There's now a much more open feeling to it, but I did one more thing to enlarge the room: a wallpaper mural. Needless to say, it features arches.<br />
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The gray thing at the left is the back of the sink counter. It will eventually have a beautiful piece of wood on it, so try not to focus on that now.<br />
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The last thing I'd like to show you is some of the shelves in the pantry. It used to be a completely useless full bathroom behind the kitchen, and it now has shelves on all four walls, two walls of shelves somewhat shallower for groceries and two walls somewhat deeper for dishes, bowls, and such. My sister gave me the marvelous idea of pull-out shelves as staging areas for putting things away -- thank you, Sara! <br />
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Through all this, I certainly have not forgotten that what has been going on here is not just the excitement of designing and moving into a new house, but a marital separation after fourteen years. Age 68 is not the best of times (as if there were such a thing) for a woman to become single again, but then I have not noticed life presenting us with perfect vs. imperfect solutions to any problem. I think Rick and I are doing fine. He and Mela the dog are 15 feet away in the casita, and we are cooperative and helpful with each other. This is the most amicable separation I can imagine, so please do not feel apprehensive about visiting. We are both focusing on the advantages of the new arrangement, not as pollyannas but as I think realists, and if it goes as we hope we will continue to be important friends for each other.<br />
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I have joined a health group. Since there are many retired expats living here, the demographics of age dictate that many of these people will be single. Health groups exist all over town, informal cooperatives where a small number of people exchange relevant information, keys, and promises of mutual aid if needed. Every morning, for example, I email two people that I am fine and equally receive emails from them. If my email is not received then my health care partners check up on me, and vice versa. All necessary, all sensible.<br />
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Something very exciting! I have decided on a supremely self-indulgent thing. The other day I wrote out a check for $545 US dollars in exchange for home delivery of the Sunday New York Times for one year. It was delivered for the first time this past Sunday, and I can't tell you how much I am loving having it again. And no, reading it online is absolutely not a substitute, not even close. I curl up in my reading chair with the Book Review, with my soft fake mink throw on my lap and maybe a cat on top of that, and I am as close to heaven as I get. <br />
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And I have made a new friend, Becky, whom I am enjoying immensely. As coincidence would have it, we both went to the same high school and have a parent from Belgium who survived the Holocaust. As she is new here, she is marvelous about finding out about and going to all sorts of events. It's true that I've been pretty wrapped up in moving lately, but a newcomer is still much better at going out than someone who's been here a while. The other day she reminded me that there was something at the Botanical Garden conservatory in its last day, and I am absolutely thrilled I went with her. Some scientists had hooked electrodes up to a cactus plant and had spliced in the harmonics of lute strings when stimulated by electric current from the plant. I sat there, entranced in a kind of meditative state, for three quarters of an hour, listening to the most beautiful music. I have looked online to see if perhaps there might be a CD of such a thing, but haven't found it. If any of you know of one, would you tell me? Instant peace and tranquility.<br />
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And may the bliss be with you too ...<br />
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</a>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5808785827455958131.post-66302329744240968382011-09-30T18:50:00.000-07:002011-09-30T18:50:39.513-07:00September 30: moved in!Hola from the new casa!<br />
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And I even have Internet, mostly. We moved in on Wednesday, and two days later the supply of full boxes is way reduced. Not gone, but reduced. I hooked up my music system -- well, all but one speaker, but I'll get that one figured out eventually, so with my new comfortable recliner, a good reading and sewing light, and music I am all set! My kitchen is turning out to be smaller than I thought it would be, so I am trying to think like a friend from Camano Island who used to be a captain on boats and is also a gourmet chef: he set up his kitchen at home in the same cramped style as in a boat, because it is maximally efficient. Right, efficient. It's small, but boy, is it gorgeous. <br />
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Rick is almost completely moved in. His kitchen cabinets won't be installed until early next week, though, so that part of his house is on hold. But his living room is totally furnished, well lit, and comfortable, complete with music but not yet television -- Telmex needs to install a dish for that, and that will be mañana, figuratively speaking. His bedroom and bathroom are also done. His dog, Mela, is frustrated at being locked inside when there's so much interesting going on outside. There continue to be six or eight workers here all day and the door to the street remains open. No one is taking any chances in losing Mela or letting her get in the way.<br />
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The three kittens-becoming-fullgrown-cats were in pussycat hotel for three days while we moved, and yesterday I went to get them with two cat carriers. They meowed furiously as soon as they they were put in the car, and kept it up as I carried them upstairs because upstairs they can't get out and will start getting used to the new place. The angry meows continued for the next few hours as I unpacked boxes there, and then I left them to figure it out for themselves. When I went up to bed a while later, the food in the dish was eaten, the water drunk, and the cats all meowed out. They spent the night as close to me as they could get, though.<br />
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So the work being done now is to stucco the front wall at the street, and to make it as smooth as possible for the mural that will go up there. The laundry room has been finished, up on the roof above the guest room, and the washer and dryer have been hooked up. The iron structure for a translucent roof above the stairs to my bedroom, and for the retractable awning in front of the pool, has been done. The pool is in process. An unexpected job has been to buy and install a water pressure pump, when we discovered that without it the water pressure was too low for people who like a shower you can actually feel. That turns out to be a complicated job with pipes running from the pump to the water delivery systems in both houses, and it will have taken four full days to install it when it's done on Monday. Still to come is a palapa on the roof above my bedroom, from which the view out over San Miguel is amazing. A palapa is a roof-like structure (for shade) made of reeds. I figure everything should be done by the end of October.<br />
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Life has not all been chores. Actually, there have been not one but TWO truly superb artistic events I've gone to, way better than what is usual for a small town. There is a dramatic group called Playreaders, which puts on relatively short plays with little in the way of props and in which the actors, after only three rehearsals, read from the script. Admission is all of 20 pesos, which at the current exchange rate is about $1.50. We saw "Ashes to Ashes" by Harold Pinter, a brilliantly acted play with only two actors who sustained almost unbearable tension for over an hour. We discussed it afterward with two friends with whom we saw it, with great energy and even some sense. Then the first Pro Musica concert of the season (September to April) was a departure from their usual chamber music with two Mexican opera singers performing arias from four operas; while it was uneven, they achieved beautiful music and powerful drama in the parts of Bizet's Carmen that they performed. Okay, true, many performances aren't this wonderful but it makes it all the better when some are.<br />
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However, whatever is wrong with my Internet signal is preventing me from uploading pictures, damn. That will have to wait until the computer tech visits and cures whatever is ailing the computer.<br />
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So this is a quickie to tell you that we have arrived and all is well. Again, our US phone numbers:<br />
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Jo (206) 414-3290<br />
Rick (214) 310-5870<br />
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I'll write again soon when I can send you some pictures.<br />
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Jo<br />
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</a></div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5808785827455958131.post-10663445845351977802011-09-23T20:53:00.000-07:002011-09-23T21:01:02.924-07:00September 23Hola, everyone<br />
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The house we've been living in since January is pretty empty. Rick has been moving boxes and boxes and boxes over to the new house all week, and what's left here is essential stuff (like this computer)! and the landlord's furniture. Something happened this afternoon that simply terrified me. The car is parked in a carport with an electrical overhead garage door to the alley. I got in the car, started the engine, and pushed the button to open the garage door. A man suddenly appeared in front of the car and stared at me for a reason I couldn't understand. He bent down and into my vision through the windshield I saw him pull another man up to a sitting position and then drag him off to a side. He was so drunk he had passed out in front of the garage door, and didn't move when it opened. I certainly didn't see him. If the other man had not been there to pull him out of the way, I would have killed him. This incident makes all the trash in the alley such a minor annoyance. I am SO glad to be leaving this place.<br />
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My kitchen is nearly done. There are outlets under the cabinets at right (still missing their doors) because I am going to keep my appliances here, behind glass doors in that place. No more lifting the heavy mix-master or crock-pot from a lower cabinet! The stove goes in the empty place; it was removed so that the carpenter could work more easily. By the way, the short shelves at left are for spices. Isn't the light that comes in from the skylights beautiful? <br />
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The pool is coming along, too. In the next picture, the worker is digging down several feet because it's unstable soil. It's an area maybe 10 X 10 or 12 X 12; I can barely imagine doing that much hard work, shovelful by shovelful. In the second picture, cinder-blocks have been placed on the perimeter and better soil has been added. It looks smooth because it's been compacted with a machine that bounces on the soil and so is called <i>una bailarína</i> in Spanish -- a dancer! I love that.<br />
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I've been making curtains like crazy -- for your room when you come to visit, for Rick's bedroom and bathroom, and for my bathroom. September is Mexican Independence month, and everything is decked out in red, white and green, even the fabric stores. <br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfDwCCopidffFMHLZlE7PTaOGycKQ_2eOA4V_tN9duEnBhFQmrpWxGhyRCZw64H1W4LfH6Rd8b8cFQtNbpJUBwwzv4vP1cfo97NbRoPWRvElkZ9xpqZBDAK67UNk-WIBoxI3xrhfb32qo/s1600/IMG_0634.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfDwCCopidffFMHLZlE7PTaOGycKQ_2eOA4V_tN9duEnBhFQmrpWxGhyRCZw64H1W4LfH6Rd8b8cFQtNbpJUBwwzv4vP1cfo97NbRoPWRvElkZ9xpqZBDAK67UNk-WIBoxI3xrhfb32qo/s320/IMG_0634.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; font-family: inherit; text-align: left;">I have to tell you some more about banking here. Totally nuts. This is a cash economy to an astonishing degree: people don't even use checks. If you need to pay something you either pay for it in cash, or if it's a person or a company not around the corner they send you the number of their bank account in a national-chain bank, and you go and deposit the amount in their account. I go to the bank often for large amounts of cash to pay for the construction. First, I must go before 1:00 to withdraw money -- MY money! I go and tell the special person upstairs who deals with gringos and special accounts that I need to withdraw say 50,000 pesos, as I did the other day. I must ask her if this is okay, and she calls down to the cashier to find out if there's enough money on hand for me to withdraw this amount. Okay, she tells me, and fills out a form I sign and take to the cashier. Then the cashier counts out a hundred 500-peso bills, 500 pesos being the equivalent of $38 or so at the current exchange rate, because they don't have larger bills. One hundred bills is pretty fat, and hard to stuff into my purse.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Rick's furniture was delivered earlier this week, and although he doesn't have his kitchen cabinets yet he's been able to unpack a great many things. Today he even put art up on his walls! My furniture comes on Monday, so I'm sort of stuck until it does. His house is looking beautiful, and I promise to take pictures soon.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Rick had an utterly brilliant idea for the front wall, which now looks like this. It will be stuccoed and painted: the lower part, now white and yellow, in a deep crimson, and the upper part, now brick, in cream.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3cP1zYviUgBSR4rjL_Vp94PXVTcrMjveRs0N-YJBZlpjYilkxaaBCGTUwVHSGoo89-7tAIZsCh1jaxfIfRno4jfHnOavu7kDrCzw3Ig3SzU5FNFjuGl1yHJba6bhjLhdRjwrUIDI7P1w/s1600/IMG_0631.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3cP1zYviUgBSR4rjL_Vp94PXVTcrMjveRs0N-YJBZlpjYilkxaaBCGTUwVHSGoo89-7tAIZsCh1jaxfIfRno4jfHnOavu7kDrCzw3Ig3SzU5FNFjuGl1yHJba6bhjLhdRjwrUIDI7P1w/s320/IMG_0631.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">We have two friends, a couple, who are artists -- we've bought several of their paintings already. You can see some of Stephan's and Béa's art on their website, <a href="http://www.artcasaverde.com/">http://www.artcasaverde.com/</a>. Why not, Rick figured, use that huge wall for a mural? We have checked with the building department and of course they want us to get a permit (= income for the city), but that's okay. We also checked to see if there is some sort of transparent protective coating to cover the mural, so that in case some imbecile decides the mural is a great place for his graffiti it can be easily washed off, and there is. We have not seen any other front walls with murals, and are delighted to be the first -- maybe we'll start a new fad and give work to all sorts of starving artists! We are looking forward to the time when our house is a stop on a San Miguel art tour.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">We will be moving into the new house probably on Tuesday or so (September 27), so we will be out of contact from a day or two from now until we get computers set up. There are some things not finished yet -- the pool, the retractable awning over the deck next to the pool, the new garage door and entrance door, the two lampposts in the garden (!), etc., but the houses are essentially done. Construction started on July 5: isn't this terrific? </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><i>Please note that Rick will have his own US phone number, (214) 310-5780, so make a note of it if you are going to want to call him.</i> My US phone will continue to be (206) 414-3290.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Mark, darling, happy birthday in advance because I won't be able to call you on your birthday. Danny, honey, we hope you have a superb birthday! </div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5808785827455958131.post-24732801323581179022011-09-09T13:58:00.000-07:002011-09-09T13:58:19.698-07:00September 9So here is what the guest room used to look like — the lovely floor and some kind of masonry sink in it.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDtQ5TT-CSubStQ5Udk4YSCwHkWJydCrNElDyqlghYzR9wHUyayyW2qctmBVYj7KeQnN5jQ4MCWjwIOke2LSwQzGNIUYqvdTR3TbhRUAjz8y9Y4aDDHd84v0nmULafWVUPVrcbg0Mwh7w/s1600/IMG_0462.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDtQ5TT-CSubStQ5Udk4YSCwHkWJydCrNElDyqlghYzR9wHUyayyW2qctmBVYj7KeQnN5jQ4MCWjwIOke2LSwQzGNIUYqvdTR3TbhRUAjz8y9Y4aDDHd84v0nmULafWVUPVrcbg0Mwh7w/s320/IMG_0462.JPG" width="240" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkwhG9cTcm_PCLRIIOV9OPaknlZ7u24pS28JUKnE81071JJ5njHv8GNn1GLmBJriK6SdJsCbUkXztd-rS-ID0WbprU70jFbt2VzmpB8SFOreAyAucPlDAlnHaHC-RHIjFm2eFl4I6-yRI/s1600/IMG_0463.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkwhG9cTcm_PCLRIIOV9OPaknlZ7u24pS28JUKnE81071JJ5njHv8GNn1GLmBJriK6SdJsCbUkXztd-rS-ID0WbprU70jFbt2VzmpB8SFOreAyAucPlDAlnHaHC-RHIjFm2eFl4I6-yRI/s320/IMG_0463.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br />
This is what it looks like now.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDOkMlgntC69Mwt5usyimDfCSpEehpXMtmTiZex0cxXUsmA-IcL4g9QZNN2GSxqbe1G_fCZctHRcYzpcjfrY9I2mjtuHpU43PiPbRqld-3eGPkSJjzqm3bEUcQ-6IO7RaIr8fEiFd5XAM/s1600/IMG_0627.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDOkMlgntC69Mwt5usyimDfCSpEehpXMtmTiZex0cxXUsmA-IcL4g9QZNN2GSxqbe1G_fCZctHRcYzpcjfrY9I2mjtuHpU43PiPbRqld-3eGPkSJjzqm3bEUcQ-6IO7RaIr8fEiFd5XAM/s320/IMG_0627.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br />
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The arched doorway to the right is to your bathroom.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDUR8mP_493i7W9KkJUuVldxePDaqZo97bCl5UgsE2-BmuJkuHcB8rt6njXsBMDG0rFvNzRORyMxdtHIHMW3uidly71FVLtPIDhb5BCSLOPmsLChr3wEuc2M93FDWTCp_53LFJCJZtuU0/s1600/IMG_0629.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDUR8mP_493i7W9KkJUuVldxePDaqZo97bCl5UgsE2-BmuJkuHcB8rt6njXsBMDG0rFvNzRORyMxdtHIHMW3uidly71FVLtPIDhb5BCSLOPmsLChr3wEuc2M93FDWTCp_53LFJCJZtuU0/s320/IMG_0629.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOp-R71KyIVzqAQOkLrMZ-AZvZYYsr19YY9JDqKkiz_p1wAv7kS8dww4eseHpfEG-V-VqNBJRpkPJ2jmexU86_6S9fAjKlk2i6v3KH6c5XDGh5-YsSGeGkMltVIL4ulaY0QrFRtqfZ6V4/s1600/IMG_0628.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOp-R71KyIVzqAQOkLrMZ-AZvZYYsr19YY9JDqKkiz_p1wAv7kS8dww4eseHpfEG-V-VqNBJRpkPJ2jmexU86_6S9fAjKlk2i6v3KH6c5XDGh5-YsSGeGkMltVIL4ulaY0QrFRtqfZ6V4/s320/IMG_0628.JPG" width="240" /></a></div><br />
I hope you'll be very happy here!Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5808785827455958131.post-61773798920353838542011-09-08T16:26:00.000-07:002011-09-08T16:37:20.886-07:00September 8<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhg__MwQ-py4wEPUPgMpRQdQlpTTDWTsBHkcdEPDOyd2BJEWZoELVmbhF_05111PTCqpdA2HpT3fU2PH975GUNz-Q1V8MqD4CoL66lr2xnzivBQmrU9SC2lZC5DAZTOZ-iDLUcvyonLGiw/s1600/IMG_0620.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a>Well, the other day I had an experience I bet you all in the US have not had in many, many years. Want to guess? I went to a shoemaker: remember those? Shoes here need to be not only comfortable but have thick enough soles to be able to walk on cobblestones without feeling them, and very important, not be slippery. Some of the sidewalk stones here get extremely slippery when they are wet, and this is the rainy season. I absolutely do not want to fall on these hard stones -- it's not for nothing that San Miguel is nicknamed "The City of Fallen Women." So I bought a pair of shoes that didn't meet all the requirements, brought them to the shoemaker, and that takes care of that!<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizxjSaiXidQ5m0PVhRrX2kDJguWTul_8JY1cV0EVzs0nsGsyQrdu5x-EiVUKDmDarzJA3uK6v19Ghr21psjaF6hYQ-vEo89K5z8lIXt2o_1rGeE003ITqMcVjRh0UjBtKyuPL9sUk6wbg/s1600/rickcarolynlarryjo.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><br />
</a></div>We had a marvelous visit a couple of weeks ago from our friends Larry and Carolyn from Washington State.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizxjSaiXidQ5m0PVhRrX2kDJguWTul_8JY1cV0EVzs0nsGsyQrdu5x-EiVUKDmDarzJA3uK6v19Ghr21psjaF6hYQ-vEo89K5z8lIXt2o_1rGeE003ITqMcVjRh0UjBtKyuPL9sUk6wbg/s1600/rickcarolynlarryjo.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="187" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizxjSaiXidQ5m0PVhRrX2kDJguWTul_8JY1cV0EVzs0nsGsyQrdu5x-EiVUKDmDarzJA3uK6v19Ghr21psjaF6hYQ-vEo89K5z8lIXt2o_1rGeE003ITqMcVjRh0UjBtKyuPL9sUk6wbg/s320/rickcarolynlarryjo.jpg" width="320" /> </a></div><br />
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The photo of the four of us was taken at a café at the Jardin (reminder: central plaza, center of town, means Garden), where we shared a table with a couple of Mexicans from Guadalajara in town for a romantic weekend. He was 50, she in her 40s, and they seemed very much in love. Fun to see. Larry and Carolyn surely must think this place is made for romance: that day we also saw not one but two brides.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCJVP4uJj5vExpbhdPrXMRlfmo_M5Sdqyl_JMRo6ZYcYVwD4jnxH2GrpEInJDqdfEW-Qtrz5OzzHPUqOOJkYf2jtnR4yzK3SYH0G2hnSMz9yXdE75MREIE-yOcgA1vd7PHkYW4g5LFTf8/s1600/IMG_0581_2.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCJVP4uJj5vExpbhdPrXMRlfmo_M5Sdqyl_JMRo6ZYcYVwD4jnxH2GrpEInJDqdfEW-Qtrz5OzzHPUqOOJkYf2jtnR4yzK3SYH0G2hnSMz9yXdE75MREIE-yOcgA1vd7PHkYW4g5LFTf8/s320/IMG_0581_2.JPG" width="240" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnc0A4puv0DxqlOM62u6bdCOsOKJ4MSn2HGbyNcr5efXY8DFWrw712Y12wZviGH89ThVvhqBKPPSJDBay8QMMwEZzNFDRbz2dRHKyoRt2UDOrbFs1RSxRh3JRl5gAq6GJRfU9JbW_KS0Y/s1600/IMG_0579_2.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnc0A4puv0DxqlOM62u6bdCOsOKJ4MSn2HGbyNcr5efXY8DFWrw712Y12wZviGH89ThVvhqBKPPSJDBay8QMMwEZzNFDRbz2dRHKyoRt2UDOrbFs1RSxRh3JRl5gAq6GJRfU9JbW_KS0Y/s320/IMG_0579_2.JPG" width="240" /></a></div><br />
The second one, just down the street from the café, was pretty apprehensive about that horse. I'm not up on wedding dress styles lately, but the ones I see here seem to have about a thousand yards of fluffy white fabric! And showing Carolyn and Larry the spectacular courtyards at the Instituto Allende, we came across preparations for, of course, a wedding.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEJYEYkxHR5zsqQAMO8iij0olgdO13atR8LFoCRBEOR4tNLCIYQXkjf0fFvaVhCzCrDVsmShmHbsA1ztaQ3c4cgaEC1qN-pg8NHBvqFiGW080EJD_FDsDyBJ2k_58euXkE3a5gYyEDioU/s1600/IMG_0578_2.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEJYEYkxHR5zsqQAMO8iij0olgdO13atR8LFoCRBEOR4tNLCIYQXkjf0fFvaVhCzCrDVsmShmHbsA1ztaQ3c4cgaEC1qN-pg8NHBvqFiGW080EJD_FDsDyBJ2k_58euXkE3a5gYyEDioU/s320/IMG_0578_2.JPG" width="240" /></a></div><br />
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I think the new tourist tag should be "San Miguel: Romance Capital of Mexico."<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1YV-k6KOG4tXKBiXG5iXCydhR_yR0dEZc_ZVZ3QwZBFpwMBMQVmfotMGr95kHS0U40WeIRtcJHoVQMN9Yds95fA8d3RJhVI1Eytc3QLdTpF0g9NObd8rDTAtdvbAQMKaMbI43_hsAnJA/s1600/IMG_0600.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><br />
</a></div>Speaking of flowers, my sister Sara is now more expert than ever, having just published her absolutely gorgeous book on the flowers of Volunteer Park Conservatory in Seattle. <a href="http://www.lovethatimage.com/">http://www.lovethatimage.com/</a> A great book for people who love flowers, a great gift. I saw a beautiful flower I can't identify. Sara, can you?<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiu5PyzrjGx8Dwiw4o20Ahgr9lF6NhKADkWQuxBOxifLNZ4Oa7fOrETMjdDaOluSP_i_BjsIxIAG-IjtIzcBrijUrGCjAdiMLz4B0gAq5TaNx1vZIEjr7m6UmipDpV5HHYF8CaZeYfm2Vs/s1600/IMG_0584.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiu5PyzrjGx8Dwiw4o20Ahgr9lF6NhKADkWQuxBOxifLNZ4Oa7fOrETMjdDaOluSP_i_BjsIxIAG-IjtIzcBrijUrGCjAdiMLz4B0gAq5TaNx1vZIEjr7m6UmipDpV5HHYF8CaZeYfm2Vs/s320/IMG_0584.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br />
And in close-up:<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnc0A4puv0DxqlOM62u6bdCOsOKJ4MSn2HGbyNcr5efXY8DFWrw712Y12wZviGH89ThVvhqBKPPSJDBay8QMMwEZzNFDRbz2dRHKyoRt2UDOrbFs1RSxRh3JRl5gAq6GJRfU9JbW_KS0Y/s1600/IMG_0579_2.JPG" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"></a><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4dY0gwiNCfohP7SI0cbTVNoV7PiDnDulshy906cu-tz9IfIsFfTOCjL5POjqFWXbZXn4SP1Rn3yA75jF7fAxN8V9UGlP3U7-WieW_tTIJxeWp-5k_ZNha4w1G_r8X2-32l0gOlVdIkMk/s1600/IMG_0583_2.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4dY0gwiNCfohP7SI0cbTVNoV7PiDnDulshy906cu-tz9IfIsFfTOCjL5POjqFWXbZXn4SP1Rn3yA75jF7fAxN8V9UGlP3U7-WieW_tTIJxeWp-5k_ZNha4w1G_r8X2-32l0gOlVdIkMk/s320/IMG_0583_2.JPG" width="240" /></a></div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnc0A4puv0DxqlOM62u6bdCOsOKJ4MSn2HGbyNcr5efXY8DFWrw712Y12wZviGH89ThVvhqBKPPSJDBay8QMMwEZzNFDRbz2dRHKyoRt2UDOrbFs1RSxRh3JRl5gAq6GJRfU9JbW_KS0Y/s1600/IMG_0579_2.JPG" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"></a><br />
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My life lately consists of trips to buy things for the casa. The other day I went to a town about an hour from here, Apaseo El Alto, where there are dozens of carpenters who make wood furniture. It's fascinating how different towns sometimes become known for a specific product. I went because the furniture there is considerably less expensive than in San Miguel. And in fact, I ordered 23 pieces of furniture, many carved, all drawers with metal side guides (not the typical kind here that falls out when you open it!), all handmade. Look at what I get for 23,000 pesos, or about $1,900:<br />
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<ul><li>2 queen bedsteads, one with 4 drawers</li>
<li>2 queen headboards</li>
<li>1 single bedstead and headboard</li>
<li>4 night tables</li>
<li>1 wardrobe with drawers</li>
<li>1 linen cabinet</li>
<li>1 triple dresser with 9 drawers</li>
<li>1 coffee table</li>
<li>2 end tables</li>
<li>8 chairs </li>
</ul>For example, this is what the furniture in the guest room will look like. Isn't it happy-making?!<br />
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Rick has bought more furniture for his casita, in addition to this. In fact, the casa and the casita are now pretty much done, after only eight weeks of work. The carpenter who's making all the cabinets hasn't finished those so we can't move in completely, but we will by the end of this month. Very exciting! Here are some pictures of the casa. First, my outdoor shower upstairs. The open iron door to the left is in the bathroom; the outdoor shower is in the sleeping porch.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQQZ7zXjSwLQKuisgsT67EvfaMuGCX4MHZa8ZUoRG4tn511b4_e1e99f74S1tm5gNqAqakvLi6aWmx4_2WbU0F3clJCBegdXkdsXXRbFbt3VtR3lg9RwXCtl0Zxo2GgMeJ7Fi9N90Oph8/s1600/IMG_0615.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQQZ7zXjSwLQKuisgsT67EvfaMuGCX4MHZa8ZUoRG4tn511b4_e1e99f74S1tm5gNqAqakvLi6aWmx4_2WbU0F3clJCBegdXkdsXXRbFbt3VtR3lg9RwXCtl0Zxo2GgMeJ7Fi9N90Oph8/s320/IMG_0615.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br />
Below, the outdoor shower seen from the sleeping porch. There are beautiful small glass turquoise tiles which you can just about see in both pictures.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7pR6bVpEWkjBQbLRQpxvvTfHhPz4N4YwFkKBqWlYuoeyXY1L_TxYCJkCyglh37iGBpgig8c8IkN4_6rZwF2mXkVRl7j6IB4NyzgRfLI-98rGQ4rctbXaZSrC0sNPTtkyFaUya3jsfLAA/s1600/IMG_0612.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7pR6bVpEWkjBQbLRQpxvvTfHhPz4N4YwFkKBqWlYuoeyXY1L_TxYCJkCyglh37iGBpgig8c8IkN4_6rZwF2mXkVRl7j6IB4NyzgRfLI-98rGQ4rctbXaZSrC0sNPTtkyFaUya3jsfLAA/s320/IMG_0612.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br />
And the sleeping porch, entirely enclosed in screens that go from floor to ceiling outside the privacy bricks. No more mosquitoes! The tree you see is a huge old jacaranda (pronounced in Spanish ha-ca-RAN-da), one of two on the property, which makes beautiful lavender clusters of flowers in the spring.<br />
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My bathroom, with its painted Mexican sink and glass accent tiles:<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKLYzD6fd6RfBfR8IdlMHJoEzmYcqFZvQ3nhFZT77xUM5tFaEGT_bl7HcnA6twvQNU9ex4w2c6uZWLwaK69EpOhxxGNmxjI4ZXYf7dkCe0l9M15wWaDtdpioeGUQurXDX7VT-YPtEHHCQ/s1600/IMG_0614.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKLYzD6fd6RfBfR8IdlMHJoEzmYcqFZvQ3nhFZT77xUM5tFaEGT_bl7HcnA6twvQNU9ex4w2c6uZWLwaK69EpOhxxGNmxjI4ZXYf7dkCe0l9M15wWaDtdpioeGUQurXDX7VT-YPtEHHCQ/s320/IMG_0614.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7pR6bVpEWkjBQbLRQpxvvTfHhPz4N4YwFkKBqWlYuoeyXY1L_TxYCJkCyglh37iGBpgig8c8IkN4_6rZwF2mXkVRl7j6IB4NyzgRfLI-98rGQ4rctbXaZSrC0sNPTtkyFaUya3jsfLAA/s1600/IMG_0612.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a></div> My bedroom, with the sleeping porch out to the left and newly refinished tiles. The walls are a pale blue.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAJmV2MvV5joZ6KB7iOqoF7QOIYhTpT0OvDCcxpoELuDn-Ay3Se3a7IPZPTIC8ls0KGCry8_2CyQxDKSbt8LM36J3lKJqnHrZkpNHWwdDQy8jN0ijqrHRWJtai1YMRkZW2OEkU1s5HVVY/s1600/IMG_0610.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAJmV2MvV5joZ6KB7iOqoF7QOIYhTpT0OvDCcxpoELuDn-Ay3Se3a7IPZPTIC8ls0KGCry8_2CyQxDKSbt8LM36J3lKJqnHrZkpNHWwdDQy8jN0ijqrHRWJtai1YMRkZW2OEkU1s5HVVY/s320/IMG_0610.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br />
My kitchen. The walls are soft turquoise and the tiles are marbled teal. The light you see to the right of the sink is from one of the 20 square skylights we've put everywhere. Through the arch on the right you can see the arch of the built-in shelves in the study: isn't that beautiful?<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiLBMeofZNowDA9UwaIHhrpRJ15KiRjvAJT_tiUKNB9RwgwtxiBPsW9gpEU9fqpC-KpKOpeulH4RwxjwP9iIGtWY2Uefj2bg3pOy5PvtCnTwCIsz5YVI1MF7DxP53KnZLXN5kIwqRB1E8/s1600/IMG_0604_2.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiLBMeofZNowDA9UwaIHhrpRJ15KiRjvAJT_tiUKNB9RwgwtxiBPsW9gpEU9fqpC-KpKOpeulH4RwxjwP9iIGtWY2Uefj2bg3pOy5PvtCnTwCIsz5YVI1MF7DxP53KnZLXN5kIwqRB1E8/s320/IMG_0604_2.JPG" width="240" /></a></div><br />
My study, again with the marvelous light from skylights. The thing on the back wall is a gas heater, which I need to learn how to operate.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyjm6xS_UxazbVIWNmdRJyY15GlDAbSMjG1W-C2aGG-RnniHlreW_XVgugX5EaZa1ULlfagukH2Vh6Du7jIGeqGbOOyeRuWg44fpWeIO30KfY6K-_ZqXm-SiVK9dKNIbRI8iN7fpyjHNY/s1600/IMG_0605.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyjm6xS_UxazbVIWNmdRJyY15GlDAbSMjG1W-C2aGG-RnniHlreW_XVgugX5EaZa1ULlfagukH2Vh6Du7jIGeqGbOOyeRuWg44fpWeIO30KfY6K-_ZqXm-SiVK9dKNIbRI8iN7fpyjHNY/s320/IMG_0605.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br />
The powder room off the study, with its painted Mexican sink and handmade tiles.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-s7-T-RFHknip8finACZn_4tXivKe-POti7VInzAGbH7Wv-8EmnQk1pArGrn3xxNRQQRwTnypkR8CK7k3P_Sq-fp_DRPuklcNBtOjMfJbFmqLumnkJqlSwjRcC3oGqLncMoN0RlLSafw/s1600/IMG_0606.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-s7-T-RFHknip8finACZn_4tXivKe-POti7VInzAGbH7Wv-8EmnQk1pArGrn3xxNRQQRwTnypkR8CK7k3P_Sq-fp_DRPuklcNBtOjMfJbFmqLumnkJqlSwjRcC3oGqLncMoN0RlLSafw/s320/IMG_0606.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br />
And in the casita, Rick's sleeping porch just got put in. It's at the northern end of a 30' patio that goes along his living room and kitchen. I love the clean lines of the frames, which of course are screened.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj73myzTv7L58sg2e-Dy28YZM1KoDffOrF7fKQXxQZlXs6Fzqq_cJeUorQ88LMSv7OdwCLQL0vAal_GEGjbJxUc3hggV-tCsVneNL31dk7LfUJV4lOZWMEMy4K6ESpiNr4tWxVFZtQZWN4/s1600/IMG_0616.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj73myzTv7L58sg2e-Dy28YZM1KoDffOrF7fKQXxQZlXs6Fzqq_cJeUorQ88LMSv7OdwCLQL0vAal_GEGjbJxUc3hggV-tCsVneNL31dk7LfUJV4lOZWMEMy4K6ESpiNr4tWxVFZtQZWN4/s320/IMG_0616.JPG" width="240" /></a></div><br />
His living room is serving as the temporary depository of stuff we're moving in.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtG1mMwImHMfbaGuqCcr5iAg0fcKg4V0J89PyBHwbN5c4TF_iyXrShWrT7uf3YIPVIObOguU9rPlfNV3EoXO_nV2kRl5gfGczXvFbNf7ZC6mDB0V3MUwK0dSrl3fmJa9NoAcXCyW2hdmo/s1600/IMG_0617.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtG1mMwImHMfbaGuqCcr5iAg0fcKg4V0J89PyBHwbN5c4TF_iyXrShWrT7uf3YIPVIObOguU9rPlfNV3EoXO_nV2kRl5gfGczXvFbNf7ZC6mDB0V3MUwK0dSrl3fmJa9NoAcXCyW2hdmo/s320/IMG_0617.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br />
His kitchen, with all tiles in and stove connected but no cabinets yet. And the lovely light from the skylight.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_iMDf-lqESf2TYXnwH-Ox-tGbvZ0cy-8iw9CBaPNG0OfYlSxJzcb52GpcXKWgYzjK8H1t1ve7bxtoR-rZK7GwxrefKy1uz-M_qjYSeURDfTFx7mO2pee1JZdiP7nI6AYEmQRH4etZPhA/s1600/IMG_0618.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_iMDf-lqESf2TYXnwH-Ox-tGbvZ0cy-8iw9CBaPNG0OfYlSxJzcb52GpcXKWgYzjK8H1t1ve7bxtoR-rZK7GwxrefKy1uz-M_qjYSeURDfTFx7mO2pee1JZdiP7nI6AYEmQRH4etZPhA/s320/IMG_0618.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br />
His bathroom, like mine and in the powder room, has a Mexican painted sink.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhg__MwQ-py4wEPUPgMpRQdQlpTTDWTsBHkcdEPDOyd2BJEWZoELVmbhF_05111PTCqpdA2HpT3fU2PH975GUNz-Q1V8MqD4CoL66lr2xnzivBQmrU9SC2lZC5DAZTOZ-iDLUcvyonLGiw/s1600/IMG_0620.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhg__MwQ-py4wEPUPgMpRQdQlpTTDWTsBHkcdEPDOyd2BJEWZoELVmbhF_05111PTCqpdA2HpT3fU2PH975GUNz-Q1V8MqD4CoL66lr2xnzivBQmrU9SC2lZC5DAZTOZ-iDLUcvyonLGiw/s320/IMG_0620.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br />
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The pool is still a hole in the ground, but the fourth wall is now in.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSmc9iHpIj7ZqWQKZYDb9B9Cv4Qd5hVh8_tSZTjDRuCkzKmTBDQqZJvSjXrxIA-RCE9E_fqMwiD80fqVYJDspCxTMQKFR496PEFsEIguCA3yoO01noxEOoOGfqg0Lgq-7CXPf2f5fmA28/s1600/IMG_0622.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSmc9iHpIj7ZqWQKZYDb9B9Cv4Qd5hVh8_tSZTjDRuCkzKmTBDQqZJvSjXrxIA-RCE9E_fqMwiD80fqVYJDspCxTMQKFR496PEFsEIguCA3yoO01noxEOoOGfqg0Lgq-7CXPf2f5fmA28/s320/IMG_0622.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br />
We're creating a laundry room upstairs, above the guest room. The roof is only a slab of plywood now, but the walls are so interesting. They're prefab styrofoam encased in wire mesh. Over this is laid a layer of concrete, which is smoothed and finally painted.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmdU-r7FHph4P67XQ0iXBG4WUYVV8xSg1A5WLf5dZDtlc6Gxmw-uu1xeCGQ9XIii88vcA8m_GrU2K71NVR4eyIwmHVRzONbxw9kti8zFBwLK51_hX_s8GEWZ_kDScmKZBaP3J5XO7Dyh8/s1600/IMG_0621.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmdU-r7FHph4P67XQ0iXBG4WUYVV8xSg1A5WLf5dZDtlc6Gxmw-uu1xeCGQ9XIii88vcA8m_GrU2K71NVR4eyIwmHVRzONbxw9kti8zFBwLK51_hX_s8GEWZ_kDScmKZBaP3J5XO7Dyh8/s320/IMG_0621.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br />
How could I have forgotten to take pictures of the guest room? I'll take some and post them soon. I think it's the most extreme pre/post change of all the rooms. What used to be a dark, ugly cramped room is now full of light and seems twice the size. I've had it painted in a soft orchid color -- I hope you like it when you come to visit!<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVLy3BhIw2cE-HW6WXFwqVAcAFDTrvKxoaqwfkSq1LgouZJA5cEFb7YXnA3kYF63pW9DAH4DipDSokC4xqp9RtPIE2oSgNG1wio4j6gjxlkcnwB_2K1hAw94SAghACMxn5UqYbUckgQ48/s1600/IMG_0617.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><br />
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</a></div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5808785827455958131.post-91958344507246420112011-08-14T11:24:00.000-07:002011-08-14T11:58:41.808-07:00August 14<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2VkSzLBng8wKNIwRcne-gs1ex7BMnao6oS16PbufRXCJyMmfuCM2kvyDPSqVfISAlN5AV21vHWVTna3YOn0VlmmLCdT8don-ptBqioPHnaJmjUTymZcBUac2ZNj7zHh-goGvuWduSGIo/s1600/IMG_0561.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a>Hola, everyone!<br />
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Here is your weird Mexico fact of the day. Mexicans, when smelling a flower, do not put their noses to it as we do. Taught as children that this is dangerous because they could inhale <i>animalitos</i>, they smell a flower from its side. And how do I know this? Elvira, my Spanish teacher, is a font of fascinating glimpses into formal and informal Mexico. <br />
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For the first time since I've been in Mexico I roasted a chicken in the oven the other day. I bought the chicken, <i>un pollo completo</i>, at my favorite chicken shop a block away at the <i>mercado</i>. An old man and presumably his son know me by now. I double-parked and while they were wrapping it up a truck honked because he couldn't get by. I got into the car, made a U-turn around the center median, and when I approached the chicken shop there was the son in the street, holding my chicken out to me.<br />
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The chicken — one of their smaller ones —was nevertheless so big that I couldn't use the gadget I usually use to roast a chicken. It's an obscene piece of metal that you jam up the opening in its bottom so that the chicken is held upright and the fat can drain out. This top-heavy chicken just fell over, so I used a rack instead. One of the dinner guests that night is a superb cook, and having lived here for nine years she was delighted to learn about the wonderful digital sensor gadget that's been available in the U.S.: no more opening the oven door to check the chicken's temperature because instead an alarm rings when it reaches the preset level. Well, it almost worked right. The stove has a timer knob on it to turn off the gas in the oven as a safety measure. I forgot about it and of course the oven heat went out so I had to relight the oven and wing the cooking time (ouch, pun unintended). But I'm telling you this because even so, the roast chicken that night was the Platonic ideal of all roast chickens. How do they raise chickens here to be so unbelievably moist and tender? I'm still marveling, a week later. When you come and visit, I will make you a roast chicken.<br />
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The house construction is proceeding beautifully. Rick's kitchen and bathroom have been tiled. The worker in the second photo is painting the bathroom wall white. And isn't the curve at the shower lovely?<br />
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Unlike my casa, Rick's casita is nearly done. The casita was lived in more recently than the casa and needs much less work. The walls need painting and cabinets installed, and two windows with exterior iron security bars need to be installed in his bedroom, and then that will be pretty much it.<br />
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In my house, the floor tiles throughout the downstairs — living room, kitchen, pantry, and study — have been laid. In preparing to do that they discovered that the existing floor levels were not even. The way they went about creating a single level was just fascinating. First, they started with an arbitrary point about a meter off the floor, and used a level (the long ruler-type thing with a bubble in liquid) to find a straight line, which they drew on the wall to be painted over later. When they came to a doorway or other non-wall space, they used a taut string from the existing line to the next place, and put the level on the string to achieve the same height as before. Using this technique, they drew a line around the entire place. The tile was to be laid exactly one meter below this line, so where the floor was a bit too high or too low it was added to or shaved off. In this photo, you see the line drawn on the wall.<br />
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The kitchen floor, however, was an inch or so below the level of the other rooms. To make it level and even with the other rooms, first they tiled the living room using the line as a guide. Then they measured a meter below the line in the kitchen and cemented a few small pieces of brick along the wall and the beginning of the kitchen counter. In the photo below, you can see the edges of cement. They let the cement harden a bit, and put both ends of a long stick — you see two of them in the photo — on the cement reaching across the low places. Next they troweled more cement on the low red places, smoothing it out with the stick. The end result: a perfectly level and smooth floor throughout the entire first floor.<br />
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Below is the floor in the living room; the kitchen counter is beyond the column. The light on the floor comes from a <i>tragaluce</i>, a glass brick in the ceiling. Twenty of them are being installed in several rooms, including your guest room and your bathroom. <i>Tragaluces</i> are better than skylights because they allow a lot of light and very little heat. My kitchen was the most important as it is the only room that has no windows at all. Perhaps some day I'll be able to take a photo that satisfies me of this place. I love the complexity of the intersecting planes of the arches in the living room and to the study behind. Perhaps it reminds me of how thrilling the intersecting planes are in gothic cathedrals. When there's more light in the study, perhaps the photo will work better.<br />
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Here's the same place taken from the kitchen, with two sides of the U-shaped counter-in-progress. The counter walls are made by cementing over a prefab foam core covered with the equivalent of chicken wire, a technique used for interior walls. You can see this prefab thing two photos above of the uneven kitchen floor. Open spaces are left for the stove, refrigerator, and dishwasher (yes, I will have a dishwasher!)<br />
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Upstairs in my bedroom, the old opening to the bathroom has been completely closed — I showed you what it looked like in process last time.<br />
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The bathroom floor has been tiled. The curved thing to the left is actually the sink and shelves below it. I loved the curves, and left it alone.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghI3gt8XnVCPtnwywnL1LtiarYaOCJEqclv_fJQRC9h0bNlg36iHGkmtNg2S-sSTdDncVy7cW6K9c4b2HSUuh7mnsmaM-Xve_PfRrYIXwFeT2Y3-DKIrxOGjLBPcP5COOnj6hOCTSZQYo/s1600/IMG_0569.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghI3gt8XnVCPtnwywnL1LtiarYaOCJEqclv_fJQRC9h0bNlg36iHGkmtNg2S-sSTdDncVy7cW6K9c4b2HSUuh7mnsmaM-Xve_PfRrYIXwFeT2Y3-DKIrxOGjLBPcP5COOnj6hOCTSZQYo/s320/IMG_0569.JPG" width="240" /></a></div><br />
In the bathroom, a bit to the right of the picture above, a doorway (there will be a door) has been made in the wall that leads to the outdoor shower on the sleeping porch. Holes are being cut in it for glass blocks.<br />
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Here is a shot of my sleeping porch wall, taken from the center garden area between the casa and the casita. <br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-CZkt7v628acJwFK0vKUYhxM_IcM17lTYu7GRevVNs_1hLWUYOt7RowOzGVtJV8OiuDyEglGAlJxo7KPeXJABAfC9MRMxHxG6WsIrqho4zF9a6X4NDYTlwbKwU2s1JXzFnYolr1Zbw90/s1600/IMG_0572.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-CZkt7v628acJwFK0vKUYhxM_IcM17lTYu7GRevVNs_1hLWUYOt7RowOzGVtJV8OiuDyEglGAlJxo7KPeXJABAfC9MRMxHxG6WsIrqho4zF9a6X4NDYTlwbKwU2s1JXzFnYolr1Zbw90/s320/IMG_0572.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br />
The exterior of the casa, the casita, and the guest suite will be white, which is beautiful with the red Mediterranean roof tiles, the green trees, and the sunshine. The upstairs patio area of the casa, next photo, has been painted, and it gleams.<br />
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We have started buying appliances and furniture. If we had only known that we would be buying a place and needing to furnish it, we would not have gotten rid of so many things when we moved. Oh well, it can't be helped. A normal stove here is gas: electricity is relatively expensive, and actually I have not seen an electric stove anywhere. The standard stove has not four but six burners, often with a grill that fits over the two center burners. Cheaper stoves do not have electric ignition but must be lighted with a match. Often seen is a glass cover that hinges down over the burners from the back, but we both decided it was not worth an extra one or two hundred dollars. Refrigerators only come with the opening to the left — why this should be so is a mystery. I had to design both kitchens to take this into account. Moreover, nearly all refrigerators come with the freezer compartment on the top, which is contrary to common sense from both a physics and an ergonomics point of view. However, two stoves and one refrigerator (I will use the refrigerator that was left in the casita) cost us only $1,000.<br />
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And for pure luck, we went to Celaya yesterday, a larger town about 40 minutes away, to look for furniture stores because I need a sofa. We found a big store that was having its annual half-price sale. I bought a cream-colored suede sofa for less than $550, delivered. So fair warning to all guests with small children: no eating on the sofa! At one of the four consignment stores in San Miguel we found a really comfortable chair that glides back and forth on runners and comes with a gliding hassock as well for only $80, which Rick will use in his casita.<br />
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While it is true that we are being careful about prices, it's possible to get things here for not very much money. For example, a carpenter has been hired to make all this:<br />
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<u>Casa</u><br />
Kitchen cabinets<br />
Fine wood panel for living room side of counter<br />
Pantry cabinets<br />
Cabinet under powder room sink<br />
Door for powder room<br />
Restoration of large armoire in dressing room, now in lousy shape, as a closet<br />
Door for upstairs bathroom<br />
Medicine cabinet for bathroom<br />
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<u>Casita</u><br />
Kitchen cabinets<br />
Cabinets for Rick's pills and supplements, bathroom<br />
Cabinet under bathroom sink<br />
Door to bedroom<br />
Door to bathroom<br />
Medicine cabinet for bathroom<br />
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The carpenter's fee for all this will be 50,000 pesos, about $4,500. The wood — alder, a beautiful wood — will cost an additional $3,000 or so, and the cabinet hardware maybe less than $1,000. This would be impossible in the U.S.<br />
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Speaking of the cost of things, a few weeks ago we went to a private eye clinic in a town called Irapuato, about an hour from San Miguel. I had seen it mentioned on the Civil List, a hugely helpful listserv serving mostly expats here. Where do you find X? How do you get Y? Who is good at doing Z? One person posted that he had gone to this family-owned clinic and had gotten better care for his macular degeneration than in several U.S. cities. I know I have the beginnings of macular degeneration, as my mother did, and needed to find out if the recent change in my vision was something to worry about. I was given a 6 PM appointment. The ophthalmologist spoke pretty good English and gave me a thorough eye exam. Then an optometrist, speaking only Spanish but that was okay, gave me an excellent exam for a new prescription for glasses, assuring me that while they could fill it there I could take the prescription anywhere. Including the time waiting for my eyes to dilate, the appointment took nearly two hours and cost exactly 300 pesos: about $27. And no, I don't have to worry — yet — about my vision. Rick too is happy to know about this place, because he needs a good ophthalmologist for his diabetic retinopathy.<br />
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How I wish this blog had an audio component! Right now I am hearing drums and horns in a nearby marching parade, and periodic explosions of firecrackers or just noise bombs or whatever they are. This morning, like every Sunday, we were treated to a symphony of church bells. I love this place.<br />
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<i>Besos y abrazos, mis amigos y amigas.</i><br />
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Jo<br />
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5808785827455958131.post-8056403370398983992011-07-26T20:08:00.000-07:002011-07-26T20:08:19.181-07:00July 26<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Hola!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">The construction is now into its fourth week and they are making just wonderful progress. In Rick's casita, here is the lovely arch between his living room and his kitchen, with the so-far-concrete kitchen counter just visible beyond it, and beyond that the doorway to his bedroom. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
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We have made all the doorways into arches, and below you'll see how beautiful that is in my living room. Here, though, is the bathroom in the casita, with its curves at the shower and the original arch that we found when we first saw the place. Thanks to this little window, the entire place will feel Moorish.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjZEk6AslNudLuHWfDpRbAMXu9kDTanwiJynv0op7XTyzjW6bfUsxBVCCkceVeqG0g2t2cVH7i8tg1xwKhLuGoNcy0B1gghh4ogCvtLL-RaYeJ9R3JBs6iBF_Qt-1eZ8rAK4g8gOgyr18/s1600/IMG_0540.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjZEk6AslNudLuHWfDpRbAMXu9kDTanwiJynv0op7XTyzjW6bfUsxBVCCkceVeqG0g2t2cVH7i8tg1xwKhLuGoNcy0B1gghh4ogCvtLL-RaYeJ9R3JBs6iBF_Qt-1eZ8rAK4g8gOgyr18/s320/IMG_0540.JPG" width="320" /></a> <br />
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There used to be a hallway from the bedroom to the outside but it was entirely superfluous. The hallway has become part of a now enlarged bathroom, and where the outside door used to be is now an arched window. The spiral stairs you see here -- snail stairs in Spanish! -- will be moved away from this place, since to the right is the place where the front door will be. The rubble you see on the ground used to be an enormous THICK concrete laundry sink. It was demolished in the first morning of work.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiF1LJSX0ea3st1-JNzNGP-tHi5JOOqMc5q8naojgeD-YgOHNazzumzs0KcSlAMuLqADu4LhvFffk8GxsG5An8-rCf_o_NO2W5mPzQdQ3SrnDsAC7F9YC94M6T8FxlLrZ29ANzH0pVYk0/s1600/IMG_0543.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiF1LJSX0ea3st1-JNzNGP-tHi5JOOqMc5q8naojgeD-YgOHNazzumzs0KcSlAMuLqADu4LhvFffk8GxsG5An8-rCf_o_NO2W5mPzQdQ3SrnDsAC7F9YC94M6T8FxlLrZ29ANzH0pVYk0/s320/IMG_0543.JPG" width="320" /></a> <br />
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All the perimeter walls have been built up and stuccoed (except for the outside of the front wall, which will be done at the end). Here you are seeing the walls that converge where the pool will be, and some iron security fencing. The last time you saw this wall, it was bricks, <i>castillos</i>, and <i>cadenas</i>. We installed the iron fence in order not to close off the view.<br />
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Skylights are going in everywhere -- 19 of them in all! Here's the hole for one not yet in place (they have to cut out the rebar here), and what it looks like from above, in this case the upper patio in the casa.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiA0YGj9pr4Ih2x4Rx8pNxBrFsNFVDXwTBD8GtTW7O21g4KUj9aRhfF8jyrSe4VNM3fPCeIta-7gPbZfaOM-Pi8rFkkf8IXlAmn1bLMmNIb1TuPwzjhuau-INqyzSCVhEXEBHMPn0kd17I/s1600/IMG_0544.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiA0YGj9pr4Ih2x4Rx8pNxBrFsNFVDXwTBD8GtTW7O21g4KUj9aRhfF8jyrSe4VNM3fPCeIta-7gPbZfaOM-Pi8rFkkf8IXlAmn1bLMmNIb1TuPwzjhuau-INqyzSCVhEXEBHMPn0kd17I/s320/IMG_0544.JPG" width="320" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgU5xzgXq8UVYh8pkoVBQ_jJjqMtAXWS8aqoirvVdeWz_HVZeUoz-CPlZrlt3VVUT5R5qCGG8HKkQoqyFA9o7JLWCFgHCzyO6f8V19EBtGBh_gg_DprRGLg56X9eOj-If6OO1XzUjzSJhQ/s1600/IMG_0552.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgU5xzgXq8UVYh8pkoVBQ_jJjqMtAXWS8aqoirvVdeWz_HVZeUoz-CPlZrlt3VVUT5R5qCGG8HKkQoqyFA9o7JLWCFgHCzyO6f8V19EBtGBh_gg_DprRGLg56X9eOj-If6OO1XzUjzSJhQ/s320/IMG_0552.JPG" width="320" /></a> <br />
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Downstairs in the casa, the wall between the living room and kitchen has been removed -- except for the column you see at the left. That let us make TWO arches, one on each side of the column. The arched doorway at the right leads into the study, which before had no interior access at all. The view of these intersecting arches from the front door is complex and very beautiful. I wanted a picture of it for you, but it was too dark to show you.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJ9wukRMN-W6JAiNyUvDq8OLhtwBXR-d32y_CZxZBSsiU_Ih1Fl8llyZU2TZyGsKYOzawkk1mN4la0qStl-221JQG6WEx6O-E3gGSF5lDNLkD6WjPctkDzkPCfhgIhRBo3XS8j-ENAdJU/s1600/IMG_0545.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJ9wukRMN-W6JAiNyUvDq8OLhtwBXR-d32y_CZxZBSsiU_Ih1Fl8llyZU2TZyGsKYOzawkk1mN4la0qStl-221JQG6WEx6O-E3gGSF5lDNLkD6WjPctkDzkPCfhgIhRBo3XS8j-ENAdJU/s320/IMG_0545.JPG" width="320" /></a><br />
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The picture below is of my bedroom. The center area was a doorway to the bathroom beyond, but for various reasons it was not in a good place. The worker has bricked it up and is now applying cement for a stucco finish over it. The new doorway to the right of course is arched. The doorway to the left, which is hard to see as a doorway but really is, is being converted from right angles to an arch.<br />
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And outside the bedroom there is progress on my sleeping porch! Here is the low wall being installed for privacy.<br />
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</a></div>I am trying very hard not to add things to the construction list, but occasionally something creeps in. By and large, though, we're on or ahead of schedule and still well within the cost limits.<br />
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A couple of weeks ago we went with friends to a jazz/blues concert out in the <i>campo</i>, or the countryside outside of San Miguel. Since it is thank goodness rainy season here, the late afternoon concert came with an added bonus: the view of the rain clouds massing over the hills that were still in sunshine. Generally, "rainy season" means that every few days the clouds pile up and let loose with dramatic thunder, lightning, and pouring rain. I just love it. And now the temperatures are consistently in the high 70s and low 80s every day.<br />
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There was a play performed in San Miguel last week called <i>Opus</i>, about the interpersonal dynamics in a four-man string quartet that fires one member and replaces him with a young woman. The drama and the music were all excellent. This play was performed in New York in 2007 and got fine reviews. Even though obviously the quality of the acting isn't quite up to New York standards, isn't it a pleasure to be able to see theater like this?<br />
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I have been wanting to write to you about babies and children. On the streets, children are seen usually with mothers and on the weekends with both parents and sometimes grandparents as well. One also sees fathers with children, even here in macho Mexico. The mothers can be shabby and poor, but I have never seen a baby with anything less than clothes or blankets that appear brand new and perfectly immaculate. Small babies are carried with a blanket over them, including their faces, to protect the new skin against the strong sun. The children always seem calm and happy -- no screaming babies here, which is so interesting! I rarely see a woman with more than two or three children: are the others at home, or aren't there any others? Birth control is making good headway, but girls from poor families with little to no education are as always the ones to be getting pregnant young. I have been told that the <i>Quinceañera</i>, a girl's 15th birthday celebration, is sometimes such a big deal here because for some of these girls it will be the only party they have. No wedding.<br />
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By the way, my Spanish teacher told me that the word <i>macho</i> has a negative meaning in Mexico. In the US it's sort of complimentary, meaning a man is masculine in the good senses of the word. Here it means masculine in the bad senses -- a man who swaggers and beats his wife and children.<br />
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</a>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5808785827455958131.post-44125137354094354892011-07-13T14:18:00.000-07:002011-07-13T14:25:35.110-07:00July 13Today is the 8th day of work on Sleeping Beauty's castle. Our friend, Gerardo Peralta, is the supervisor. The way it works is that Pedro Bustamante is the "maestro" or foreman, and Pedro hires and pays his workers, perhaps 6 to 8 of them depending on the work to be done on a particular day. I am the project manager, so this job is sort of top-heavy!<br />
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The work is progressing absolutely beautifully and even ahead of schedule. Last week most of what was done consisted of demolition and wall-building. It sounds odd that I am cheering demolition, but it's needed to make way for building. For example, my kitchen is in the middle of the house between the living room and what is now a bathroom but will become a pantry. Because of the layout, the kitchen had absolutely no light. The wall between it and the living room was broken through, except for a column that has to stay for weight-bearing reasons. Now the kitchen is full of light, just like the living room. It will have even more light when the skylights are installed. <br />
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In the first picture below, I was standing in the living room looking toward the kitchen; in the second, vice-versa. You can also see where the ugly floor tiles have been removed.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMtfKiMDmXADndFg90uQaFShfEjlcbcSziwXHIq7PhHpTe9FIQpiVUxIWoo5clxGmGOZvheW3FyO5gZ3xATh1jxdAExUnJNqzMEo3JEcyvj6E9z6Z5qvMDvbEFNsSaNg7miI7Dnvit_yU/s1600/IMG_0526.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMtfKiMDmXADndFg90uQaFShfEjlcbcSziwXHIq7PhHpTe9FIQpiVUxIWoo5clxGmGOZvheW3FyO5gZ3xATh1jxdAExUnJNqzMEo3JEcyvj6E9z6Z5qvMDvbEFNsSaNg7miI7Dnvit_yU/s320/IMG_0526.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br />
<div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;">All the doorways, by the way, will become arches: a lovely Moorish feeling. Because Mexico was colonized by Spain and because Spain had earlier been invaded by North African Muslims ("Moors"), there is a distinct Moorish element in the architecture of colonial Spanish buildings in San Miguel.</div><div><br />
</div>Another nice demolition job is the wall between an unnecessary hallway and the bathroom in Rick's casita. Now he will have a decent-sized bathroom. He'll also have good tiles in his shower, unlike the awful ones that were there.<br />
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He also wanted much of the wall between his living room and his kitchen removed, for more light, air and openness. Presto, it's done! Before, there was a kitchen set up in his living room, to the left below, and that's now gone.<br />
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Near the entrance there were two HUGE concrete laundry sinks, the rub-a-dub kind. Gone.<br />
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Now the walls. If you've been reading this blog you know that in Mexico houses are built within tall perimeter walls. It's a style I've come to love: the privacy is just wonderful. In our case, all four walls needed to be built up higher for security. On two sides where the view would have been destroyed by building the walls all the way up, we will be having iron security fences installed. Last week the workers finished building up two of the four walls, and this week they'll complete the third. They have also applied stucco to the walls, and that will be painted white toward the end of the construction process.<br />
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For those of you who find construction interesting, the way brick walls are built here is to have a horizontal layer of cement with rebar, called a <i>cadena</i>, then about 2 meters of brick, followed by another <i>cadena</i>. About every 3 meters from side to side there's a solid rectangle of cement with rebar called a <i>castillo</i>. The <i>cadenas</i> and the <i>castillos</i> provide the structural strength. A large wall, therefore, will have a few horizontal <i>cadenas</i> and if it's long, many <i>castillos</i>. For example, I just took this picture of the house next door. <br />
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This wall looks pretty grungy, but when it's stuccoed and painted it looks pretty good. This is the front wall in our garden.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEsmIUT5umPC4N-QFnur67HPPgZen_HA9TRG1Ybzac7OXy1L5lvlt3jwYIeWuOWYDKLzMBoYgq22QfuISDJxYK-xTfD93shvSPZGcn_5gs4D4EngSDX8iOOD5J1A0NFhfBm9NaViaRKcM/s1600/IMG_0538.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEsmIUT5umPC4N-QFnur67HPPgZen_HA9TRG1Ybzac7OXy1L5lvlt3jwYIeWuOWYDKLzMBoYgq22QfuISDJxYK-xTfD93shvSPZGcn_5gs4D4EngSDX8iOOD5J1A0NFhfBm9NaViaRKcM/s320/IMG_0538.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br />
Gerardo and I have a meeting every Friday afternoon to go over the week's progress, and talk about things that need to be done. This week, for example, one of my jobs was to go to the electric company. Gerardo wants to work on the street wall soon, and because electric wires are not terribly far from the wall it can be dangerous for the workers. He asked me to go to the electric company and get them to put protective covering on the wires. So I went, and in Spanish (!) explained what I needed. (I was extremely proud of myself.) The man heard me out politely and then told me that this was not the correct office. He wrote out for me (or rather he typed it, on a really old typewriter!) the name of the person I needed to see and where his office was. Naturally, it had closed half an hour earlier. So today Rick and I went and found that office and learned that the man's job takes him out and about all the time. I can see him at 8:30 tomorrow morning. Lovely.<br />
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This past week Rick's son, Jesse, and Jesse's wife Clara and kids Daniel and Isa (for Isabel) have been visiting. <br />
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Clara, being a Chicana whose first language was Spanish, chattered away in the fastest Spanish I have ever heard. You all know my feelings about gender segregation but the kids took the pictures below, and I have to say I'm glad to have them.<br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">One day Jesse <i>et al. </i>came with us for our goodbye <i>comida</i> (mid-day meal) with my friend and cooking teacher, Yurina Peralta (yes, Gerardo's sister), who is moving to Cuernavaca tomorrow. Cuernavaca is about an hour south of Mexico City, so about five hours from here. I will miss her very much, but I will never have a better reason to visit Cuernavaca! At this meal and at dinner last night when Gerardo was here, I loved listening to Clara talking nonstop with my friends Yurina and Gerardo. It is a joy when separate parts of my life unite.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Yesterday while Jesse was off rock-climbing with a couple of local rock-climbers, Clara and the kids and I went to <i>el tianguis</i>, the weekly market held on Tuesday that attracts hundreds of vendors from miles around. After seeing stall after stall selling boring things like clothes, makeup, and kitchen supplies, the kids were thrilled to come upon a vendor selling chicks and ducklings. But not just any old chicks, although any old chicks would have been very welcome. Half of the chicks had been dyed brilliant colors.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">We speculated on whether they had been dunked into dye or whether they had been fed some wild-looking chicken feed, and talked about whether this was cruel to the chicks or okay to do to them. The kids were not interested in these esoteric considerations: they were enthralled.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">So from the land of the neon green and ruby red chicks, <i>hasta luego</i>!</div><br />
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</div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5808785827455958131.post-7057210723639077762011-06-28T16:46:00.000-07:002011-06-28T16:48:28.211-07:00June 28: Proud new ownersI am happy to announce that for the first time in my life I am officially a Grande Dame, defined as owning more than one house. Like rich people, we own a house on Camano Island and another in San Miguel de Allende.<br />
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We bought Sleeping Beauty's Castle yesterday -- forked over a total of $160,000 at the notario's office. Part of the procedure is that a translator is required, and the translator read us in English the entire purchase contract, written in Spanish. Then I spent an hour and a half in the bank waiting for the paperwork to wire the money (less the real estate commission) to the seller in Austin, TX -- paperwork they had been informed of several days earlier. It's best not to expect efficiency. In the meantime, I and the two real estate agents had a very pleasant conversation. I discovered that the seller's agent is quite a musician and is on the Board of Pro Musica here in town, an organization that imports first-class chamber musicians for a series of 10 to 15 concerts a year. He was delighted to know I had contributed money to Pro Musica and performed choral music in Carnegie Hall in New York, and I was delighted to know that he's not only on the Board but also writes all their very impressive program notes. A good new friend!<br />
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<div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;">We have realized we are sort of sorry we saved $650 by getting a <i>permiso</i> from the Mexican government to buy the house in only one name and not two. It's now in my name only, with Rick officially included in the deed as life tenant and beneficiary, but it feels worse than we both though not to have both names on the deed. We might change that: the hell with the $650.</div><div><br />
</div>Part II of buying a house here is to receive confirmation that the wired money has been received, only after which could we return to to the notario's office (I was so pleased that this was a young woman) to get the deed with her signature. We did that this morning and then went to the electricity office and the water office to change the name on the accounts. At each place they required a copy of the deed (!) and of my visa. At the electricity office they told us we'd be charged the change fee on the next bill, but the clerk couldn't give us any kind of receipt. Instead he turned his computer screen toward us and showed us where my name was on the screen. Then at the water office, they charged us 42 pesos to make the change, about $4, but were unable to deliver the bills to where we are living now until we move: the bills are delivered to each house by hand, and the two addresses are not in the same route. Complete impossibility. Isn't this fascinating?!<br />
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Another thing we did today was to see the work of one of the two contractors at the top of our list, and it was lovely. This contractor, Gerardo Peralta, has been our friend since we moved here and we were determined that if he turned out to do our work it would be because he earned it, not because he is our friend. It has made for some uncomfortable moments, for sure. But Gerardo submitted the lowest and the most thoroughly planned bid (the lowest was not in itself the clincher, not by a long shot), and we have full faith and trust in his honesty and determination to do a wonderful job. He very definitely earned it. We will have the first meeting with him and Pedro, the <i>maestro</i>, on Thursday, and hope the work can start Friday or Monday. <br />
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So: we bought the property for $160,000 and Gerardo's bid is for $56,750 including the pool (and its solar heaters) but not including things we'll choose such as tiles or light fixtures. Plus furniture, etc., and we will have two houses and a guest suite, fully furnished, for well under $300,000. Isn't that amazing? I am sure that when the work is done, if we were to put it on the market the price would easily be above $400,000, something we could never have afforded. So far, so good!<br />
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Tomorrow, think of us between 4:00 and 6:00 Central Daylight Time: we will be drinking champagne with friends at the new place!Unknownnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5808785827455958131.post-24176266491111769852011-06-22T14:41:00.000-07:002011-06-22T15:02:07.619-07:00June 22Hola, everyone<br />
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The day before yesterday it finally rained here in San Miguel. The daytime temperature in most of June was back into the low 90s and you cannot believe how sick and tired I was of the weather. In addition, the house we are in has no screen doors, so if we want the cool night air in the house we also get, at no extra charge, tons of mosquitoes and flies. Do you know how revolting it is to have bugs in your kitchen??? However, thanks to the hurricane on Mexico's Pacific Coast two days ago, we had a dramatic jump start to the rainy season. The temperature dropped instantly by 10 degrees. Today it is cloudy and cool, just perfect weather for a Pacific Northwest girl. I am much happier!<br />
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The deadline for the five contractors supposedly preparing fixed-price and fixed-deadline bids is in two days. This morning we got the first bid and it is very good news. It is from the contractor many Americans here work with, and I have been told by two people who have hired him that he does excellent work but he is very expensive. I have been hoping that all this work would cost less than $100,000 -- including the pool! -- and the expensive contractor submitted a bid for about $91,000. So we will likely wind up going with another contractor for less. Think of it: two houses, a separate guest room, a pool, and two tall trees for $160,000 plus under $90,000 for renovations! Lovely arithmetic. The closing date is Monday; next week we'll go to see some houses that the top contractors built and then will choose one and start the work.<br />
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One sad thing. My friend and cooking teacher, Yurina, will be moving to Cuernavaca, a city an hour south of Mexico City (and therefore about 4 or 5 hours from San Miguel), next month to take a job there. No more cooking lessons, no more recipes! <i>Que lastima!</i> (What a pity!)<br />
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As usual, it's fiesta time in San Miguel. There has been a lot of discussion lately on the San Miguel Civil List, a website for people to ask and answer questions and to discuss various aspects of life here, about fireworks. San Miguelenses <i>love</i> fireworks. Not just fireworks, but anything that goes BOOM. Church bells are everywhere and they are augmented many times by a huge variety of noise-making devices. Some of them sound like small bombs to me, but hey, I love the cheerfulness of it. Some people have been complaining about the predilection for 5 AM fireworks, for reasons that utterly escape me. There was an article in Atención, the local bilingual paper, that said that some fireworks are from the families of people recently deceased, to announce to God and the angels that their Dear One is arriving soon. Isn't that terrific?!<br />
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The most recent festival, this past Sunday, was El Dia de los Locos: the Day of the Crazies. It's sort of like a Rio de Janeiro Carneval, a Philadelphia Mummer's Parade, and a Seattle Solstice Parade all combined. There are thousands (the paper said ten thousand!) of people who marched in it, dressed in nutso costumes either in groups or as individuals, and zillions more watching. People come from many cities within a few hours of San Miguel to watch, to say nothing of this entire town's population. They start lining up hours earlier -- and remember, it's early afternoon, full sun, and temperature above 90!<br />
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Groups were generally preceded by vehicles with large signs announcing the group's identity, often neighborhood-based.<br />
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Many small children marched. I love the brilliant Mexican colors.<br />
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And many grownups did too. I am told that some people had managed to gussy up a burro to march in high heels, and am so sorry I missed that. I think one of the abiding objects of interest in San Miguel is watching women walk in 5" spike heels on the cobblestones. It's not even a rare sight!<br />
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Part of the fun of the parade is that the participants throw <i>dulces</i> -- candy -- to the onlookers. Some onlookers apparently decided they wanted <i>dulces</i> more than they wanted to be out of the sun.<br />
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One of my favorite marchers was this woman, who from her accent was American. <i>Carnitas</i> are sort of pulled pork, eaten (naturally) in a taco. <i>Que ricas carnitas</i> = how delicious carnitas is/are!<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">To conclude today's entertainment, here is something I found on the Civil List recently.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 15.0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">An American was thinking of visiting San Miguel de Allende but he was afraid. He contacted a native of SMA, saying he had some questions.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 15.0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;"><br />
</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 15.0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">The American said, "I'm afraid to travel to central Mexico. Is there drug cartel violence in San Miguel?" <o:p></o:p></span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 15.0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;"><br />
</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 15.0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">The SMA native replied, "No, most of the drug cartel violence is along the border with your country."<o:p></o:p></span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 15.0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;"><br />
</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 15.0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">"What about earthquakes, then?" asked the American. "I hear there have been some bad ones in Mexico."<o:p></o:p></span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 15.0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;"><br />
</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 15.0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">"Yes," said the SMA native, "but we don't have earthquakes in San Miguel. Most of the earthquake activity is around Mexico City."<o:p></o:p></span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 15.0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;"><br />
</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 15.0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">"Hmmm," said the American, "I've read about the devastating hurricanes you have there during the summer, though. I'm very concerned about that."<o:p></o:p></span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 15.0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;"><br />
</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 15.0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">"No," said the SMA native, "We're located in the center of the country; the hurricanes occur along our coasts. The hurricanes bring us rain but we're are grateful for that. We need the rain."<o:p></o:p></span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 15.0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;"><br />
</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 15.0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">"Well," said the American, "then you must have TORNADOES!"<o:p></o:p></span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 15.0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;"><br />
</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 15.0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">"No, no," said the SMA native, "We're located in the mountains and it's very dry and warm here in the spring. We don't have the weather conditions for tornadoes here."<o:p></o:p></span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 15.0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;"><br />
</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 15.0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">By this time, the American was becoming exasperated. In the States, news reports were filled with all the terrible things happening in Mexico. "Well, look," he said, "San Miguel de Allende must have SOMETHING." <o:p></o:p></span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 15.0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;"><br />
</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 15.0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">"We do," the SMA native replied. "Fiestas."<o:p></o:p></span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
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</div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5808785827455958131.post-26596725252844051292011-06-05T22:01:00.000-07:002011-06-05T22:13:26.313-07:00June 5: photos of Sleeping Beauty's castleThis post will consist mostly of real estate stuff and kitten stuff, in all likelihood far more than most of you want to know. No cooking lesson last week, so no recipes. If you are bored by one or both subjects, fair warning! And this is a long post: many pictures.<br />
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Three days ago we paid 10% down on the house we are buying: US$16,000. I have to tell you how we got the money together. <br />
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We had been told that we would need a cashier's check in dollars because the seller is an American in Texas, and Intercam, an investment firm, is one of two places in San Miguel that can do that. First, we closed two checking accounts and a savings account at Scotia Bank because we were not happy with its policies (imagine having to come back the next day to transfer money if you come after 1:30 PM! etc.) Closing the accounts took over an hour. We took 66,000 pesos -- about $5,700 -- in a cashier's check made out to me to Intercam to open an account there with it. The agent, a lovely person, regretfully pointed out that the cashier's check had to be made out to them, not to me. So back we went to Scotia Bank, prepared for another charge of $12 for another cashier's check. No such luck. Because we no longer had an account at Scotia Bank (typical) they would not issue me another cashier's check for love or money. So we cashed the one we had into an unbelievable pile of paper money, about 8 inches high. Of course the teller had to count it at least twice, and we counted it, which took the better part of an hour. We carried cash worth over $5,700 across town back to Intercam. The agent was <i>really</i> regretful this time: there is a 3% tax on cash over I forget how much, but we were over it. This is a national regulation that is supposed to discourage narcos from depositing their ill-gotten gains. We had no choice but to pay it, so that cashier's check cost us nearly $200, and the whole process took over 3 hours. The rest of the money was wired from our bank on Camano Island with no drama, so Friday we paid our deposit.<br />
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This weekend we were at the house measuring and noting zillions of things to be fixed, and I finally took pictures for you. Remember that I call it Sleeping Beauty's castle -- at the end of her 20-year sleep -- for a good reason. It is the same reason we managed to get this place, consisting of three buildings and a good-sized lot, 60' X 90', for as little as $160,000. Here goes! <br />
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First, the view as you come in the door from the street, specifically the place for the car. The overgrown area is between the two houses. Mine, the <i>casa</i>, is to the left; Rick's, the <i>casita</i>, is to the right.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRu2-3W2Pl8XZ8c_v9tT0ZA3o7R9X3ATqgpyqqqLszdR9E9_2Yk8EUCdyvs3SWp11BoShuMB1mnxp-tqrWrbNvfWD7YRo4R1itAIG2az6Wck2EwxvNmZpq1ywPDAH0a_blfBzrHYtsWEg/s1600/IMG_0475.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRu2-3W2Pl8XZ8c_v9tT0ZA3o7R9X3ATqgpyqqqLszdR9E9_2Yk8EUCdyvs3SWp11BoShuMB1mnxp-tqrWrbNvfWD7YRo4R1itAIG2az6Wck2EwxvNmZpq1ywPDAH0a_blfBzrHYtsWEg/s320/IMG_0475.JPG" width="240" /></a></div><br />
From the other side you can see the rusted metal garage door, which has a cutout for very short people to enter. It will all be replaced. In the left rear are laundry sinks complete with concrete washboard; they will come out and we'll put the washer and dryer there under a shed roof.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3tiZmP5O_P_1hZllhAIOkIVJZbnoyvstIGiJnUTsTMuo75kJL3T8SHct7GxRd3JhGtmrb6a3gGndbCV62wtlW_yaZm8D_R8mEtVupShLGMERGBeApHc5sL_j-oc6r8e7XdsW3UPjdZOQ/s1600/IMG_0468.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3tiZmP5O_P_1hZllhAIOkIVJZbnoyvstIGiJnUTsTMuo75kJL3T8SHct7GxRd3JhGtmrb6a3gGndbCV62wtlW_yaZm8D_R8mEtVupShLGMERGBeApHc5sL_j-oc6r8e7XdsW3UPjdZOQ/s320/IMG_0468.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br />
Then, my <i>casa</i>. The living room, with lovely windows but a floor that will have to be redone. The thing on the wall to the left is a gas heater: no central heating in Mexican houses!<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjB_PE4l-OjK40-pQYye_VSMeWRO82pcU1tXutKyk1Bniw5CFwldZxhcIor7FOSAVHMI2xGBvqmRDxL2X1Hl4Ybm0OxJd7f3S-PfrlagG-aRcYheVL_0zyG45cD8ZEDj1mQrh0_O5LhXQk/s1600/IMG_0450.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjB_PE4l-OjK40-pQYye_VSMeWRO82pcU1tXutKyk1Bniw5CFwldZxhcIor7FOSAVHMI2xGBvqmRDxL2X1Hl4Ybm0OxJd7f3S-PfrlagG-aRcYheVL_0zyG45cD8ZEDj1mQrh0_O5LhXQk/s320/IMG_0450.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br />
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And for a reason I can't fathom, a sink on the other side of the living room, which will obviously come out. Notice the elegance of the brick supports, too.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMHS9KRkP3hpiao4t1ldnfGTvPgH1eO4MuJXE6t2MCD0xpz83cA6kChOFB0ApwoUYTYeAlQbHwGLxCOA5QHge8jVvgJpvWwWc9gR9tI5q4CVslMf1SUocjHbhIcdWew9p9lPEsJ9dX-sk/s1600/IMG_0463.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMHS9KRkP3hpiao4t1ldnfGTvPgH1eO4MuJXE6t2MCD0xpz83cA6kChOFB0ApwoUYTYeAlQbHwGLxCOA5QHge8jVvgJpvWwWc9gR9tI5q4CVslMf1SUocjHbhIcdWew9p9lPEsJ9dX-sk/s320/IMG_0463.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br />
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The room behind it will become the kitchen. Isn't the floor lovely?<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiS0zVROpzUeqtGtlEXGp3qlJ2uTFhZobeNSQ5v-E9hn0CmVcBGemEcfSgKJ5d8uVOp3Uy25QHUoqiT7PVnmAdfLqaN-O3np7A11RSLGTPl-JYteLsyXRZ_E_xauohXmYD3TQrmgkkFWFY/s1600/IMG_0462.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiS0zVROpzUeqtGtlEXGp3qlJ2uTFhZobeNSQ5v-E9hn0CmVcBGemEcfSgKJ5d8uVOp3Uy25QHUoqiT7PVnmAdfLqaN-O3np7A11RSLGTPl-JYteLsyXRZ_E_xauohXmYD3TQrmgkkFWFY/s320/IMG_0462.JPG" width="240" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Behind the kitchen but entirely separate from the entire first floor with only an outside entrance (!) is what will become my study. We'll have to make a doorway between the kitchen and the study, which will be to the left in the back. That's a gas heater on the back wall. I am delighted with the pillars, shelves, and archway!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYJyx08qgZPdsbHOk-5P7MYNEQ-MbYLrCFxUPUtIjksPKPUAhSoUjQTq5qWDS4P-Wt4D_egA9I-8cZd354W3duuJ4-rXuC9GmP1cTDTriEkR1lIAJC6kbdYQIYBmvTI3znCmw6i4WxVqg/s1600/IMG_0476.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYJyx08qgZPdsbHOk-5P7MYNEQ-MbYLrCFxUPUtIjksPKPUAhSoUjQTq5qWDS4P-Wt4D_egA9I-8cZd354W3duuJ4-rXuC9GmP1cTDTriEkR1lIAJC6kbdYQIYBmvTI3znCmw6i4WxVqg/s320/IMG_0476.JPG" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Then you go upstairs, and the only way to do that is on exterior stairs which are now open to the sky (and rain when it comes) but will be roofed in and lighted. First is the room which will be a dressing room / sewing room. </div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjudY62PJMlxLIUJikbn89YQHwKJ84KqrDks3VXkqrSIVnDs_qIf7RmkmxOuxskzc-tg54fAPUjP43dopdv6jlq6IJY2ZSnhRcu6ZEyqyzKwtggY-yREZQ3TjlN5otjt0jwl6SwpcKUlLo/s1600/IMG_0451.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjudY62PJMlxLIUJikbn89YQHwKJ84KqrDks3VXkqrSIVnDs_qIf7RmkmxOuxskzc-tg54fAPUjP43dopdv6jlq6IJY2ZSnhRcu6ZEyqyzKwtggY-yREZQ3TjlN5otjt0jwl6SwpcKUlLo/s320/IMG_0451.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br />
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The derelict armoire will be tossed. You're looking at a couple of walls in the back of the room which are only clutter and will be removed. Then my bedroom with huge glass windows in two walls and a door, to the right in the picture below, to the upper patio in a third wall.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEharI6SHH0wz89eIs4C1ygw8LnRxR1SbNizg4lP_7GXOI3PyjUhxUoavLGILRLDT55I3Hw0uehQ42Q_bWA3fjlKWkjlAKdAQ9mldg1aZAcH-igZeq93hVcYPVCuhmBB7qOm4jNnpsbxMQo/s1600/IMG_0454.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEharI6SHH0wz89eIs4C1ygw8LnRxR1SbNizg4lP_7GXOI3PyjUhxUoavLGILRLDT55I3Hw0uehQ42Q_bWA3fjlKWkjlAKdAQ9mldg1aZAcH-igZeq93hVcYPVCuhmBB7qOm4jNnpsbxMQo/s320/IMG_0454.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br />
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Out the door from the bedroom, to the left of the picture above but not shown, is a long narrow porch, with no railings on part of it. It will all be screened and fenced in. The end you see here will become my summer sleeping area; behind the end where I stood to take the picture will have an outdoor shower.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyT12_GcMYGIsfaWwmRJoTUFbz9LfsJzcPgNzyn2hSg1wEcRH1yJsnm0WZPq8wsDnoI8EgmyFdTPGT6FSxylp9GVN4zl056TUPE_8_8oomJe3A_N8H_6l1phPbjBGHza0cFohFptnIQ4M/s1600/IMG_0459.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyT12_GcMYGIsfaWwmRJoTUFbz9LfsJzcPgNzyn2hSg1wEcRH1yJsnm0WZPq8wsDnoI8EgmyFdTPGT6FSxylp9GVN4zl056TUPE_8_8oomJe3A_N8H_6l1phPbjBGHza0cFohFptnIQ4M/s320/IMG_0459.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br />
And the bathroom, which has lovely light,<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwURGDFf61xvWnkETsXy5KaXY4CxOOb6jNDonKXh5AuiNnIzzhR231yzwnr018pJF9sj5PAF3tOkc7iVbm_KCrszwOgtndTClTwI8cuYmQPQX6-jWvnHNLFm7uXVp94L8dV5M5dHr8LWE/s1600/IMG_0456.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwURGDFf61xvWnkETsXy5KaXY4CxOOb6jNDonKXh5AuiNnIzzhR231yzwnr018pJF9sj5PAF3tOkc7iVbm_KCrszwOgtndTClTwI8cuYmQPQX6-jWvnHNLFm7uXVp94L8dV5M5dHr8LWE/s320/IMG_0456.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br />
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but is breathtaking in its current stupid layout: see below. That will all be changed. The tub will be changed to a shower, too. <br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjw6yFhEUGq-E_r80nSXpZkikRY_c8zsKiKeEZFcAWlSM9-rpFcEFgH5G56HApRVfAw4b5PZ5eNcQ0vO0agNbLqjTBUh0-mOQ1hyphenhyphencmO_alz6-VFr7o5hichjgxbe7M_TNAVlaOPGdpBMns/s1600/IMG_0455.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjw6yFhEUGq-E_r80nSXpZkikRY_c8zsKiKeEZFcAWlSM9-rpFcEFgH5G56HApRVfAw4b5PZ5eNcQ0vO0agNbLqjTBUh0-mOQ1hyphenhyphencmO_alz6-VFr7o5hichjgxbe7M_TNAVlaOPGdpBMns/s320/IMG_0455.JPG" width="240" /></a></div><br />
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</div>Now to Rick's <i>casita</i>. It consists of three rooms, shotgun style. It is in better shape than the casa, having been lived in more recently, but would you want your kitchen in your living room? The room behind it, through the doorway at right, will become the kitchen. We'll also knock down part of the rear wall between the living room and the kitchen to make more light in the kitchen, since most of the light is from the front of the living room.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwr67eGTsvompdy8AKeXaTzbdo7fkTcr6P6ESc7bSO7Oy6g-m-wH_gqB9jyTBTxiTrhUoqQbHRLjI-Mcqcam0AqjWW0Tiv07q3ZmAppdK4deGobM0P1IrSqKq1e5LvgMRkx6dXi-XCAi8/s1600/IMG_0472.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwr67eGTsvompdy8AKeXaTzbdo7fkTcr6P6ESc7bSO7Oy6g-m-wH_gqB9jyTBTxiTrhUoqQbHRLjI-Mcqcam0AqjWW0Tiv07q3ZmAppdK4deGobM0P1IrSqKq1e5LvgMRkx6dXi-XCAi8/s320/IMG_0472.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br />
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Here's the front of the living room, with its wall of glass windows and a door.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg72_y37oGe4A0pA2LWncoLNfkfjKxzQPxUkj-tsEma6SKI7Xod72ikj26AW9d0id8rS4BksxPrYKfVqxoOxc3TZf8fa9uXnNN0BtuK-e1URUR0xtGvyuCbCtKJY6lv30kwJSia81nzcy0/s1600/IMG_0471.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg72_y37oGe4A0pA2LWncoLNfkfjKxzQPxUkj-tsEma6SKI7Xod72ikj26AW9d0id8rS4BksxPrYKfVqxoOxc3TZf8fa9uXnNN0BtuK-e1URUR0xtGvyuCbCtKJY6lv30kwJSia81nzcy0/s320/IMG_0471.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br />
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There isn't much to see in what will become the kitchen other than the gas heater, which by now you can recognize.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhl7bpzoiuHcBC3hDDXKbwtEENmrMUiqT4Gvu6xhBvx6I-xkwD_CEo0m5v_lk2-8eMl7JeJLSdB51PkYFW7Vv0Z10U0raPNyrx6OQHL3-DAQ0jVWvn1bbwxZoRI49l1FxubKHOa-0EWPII/s1600/IMG_0473.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhl7bpzoiuHcBC3hDDXKbwtEENmrMUiqT4Gvu6xhBvx6I-xkwD_CEo0m5v_lk2-8eMl7JeJLSdB51PkYFW7Vv0Z10U0raPNyrx6OQHL3-DAQ0jVWvn1bbwxZoRI49l1FxubKHOa-0EWPII/s320/IMG_0473.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br />
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And through the doorway at the back of the kitchen, you can see what will become his bedroom. The two high windows open onto the street. They will be enlarged a little, not too much considering security. To the right of the wall below, but not shown, is the bathroom. Small and dirty white: to be retiled.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYgzrpqfiHTRpcEuLNXUkOe4qARwfTG2TsKGKPMYGKCYZbBdPAQRCAuhyt8-fuCgp2xyO4XSoRzsXGNkq9JtdOVTNFJCGLNCthIjxHOoK8aF2Flr0VpzmWYiwRc2763GdmOZ37PANMeQY/s1600/IMG_0474.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYgzrpqfiHTRpcEuLNXUkOe4qARwfTG2TsKGKPMYGKCYZbBdPAQRCAuhyt8-fuCgp2xyO4XSoRzsXGNkq9JtdOVTNFJCGLNCthIjxHOoK8aF2Flr0VpzmWYiwRc2763GdmOZ37PANMeQY/s320/IMG_0474.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br />
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All along the casita next to the living room and kitchen is a 30' covered walkway about 8' wide. We'll screen in one end of it to make a sleeping porch. Sorry, I forgot to take a picture of it.<br />
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Now back to my house. Here is the patio in front of my living room, to the rear of the property and facing north. The tiles will all have to be refinished.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLbf5HCi5Nd1L4LmDFjxCBKJjfm97grKgtNcvOAf8tyPqGnB3-Yy0qtDRLMdCG74sojHiR5fWLVpmMF2gHBM207ka3_NQB-UMPXunkX0-Lsee9JoJW4h_x2UOoMnoxiUsshArM64sYrlc/s1600/IMG_0477.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLbf5HCi5Nd1L4LmDFjxCBKJjfm97grKgtNcvOAf8tyPqGnB3-Yy0qtDRLMdCG74sojHiR5fWLVpmMF2gHBM207ka3_NQB-UMPXunkX0-Lsee9JoJW4h_x2UOoMnoxiUsshArM64sYrlc/s320/IMG_0477.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br />
And looking over the edge of the patio (from the upstairs sleeping porch) is the hole in the ground which will become the pool, pretty much delineated by the line you see in bricks. Why the line is there I have no idea. The plan is for the pool to be cheaper because essentially it can be an above-ground pool, and its lip will be level with the patio. (Under the patio is even a storage room.)<br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxNFHqdNjDZat5pXk-7p5jSkdy9WwsTpwF2k1KLSEY0hHggwYynE01c3Q53uaOw08413-EHlejEOWarccs5Aa-mNYbhq98nIsVqGy4XYgiPDK4_42L5j2iM0SB-jD9bbVJzvUyhZ2rh18/s1600/IMG_0457.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxNFHqdNjDZat5pXk-7p5jSkdy9WwsTpwF2k1KLSEY0hHggwYynE01c3Q53uaOw08413-EHlejEOWarccs5Aa-mNYbhq98nIsVqGy4XYgiPDK4_42L5j2iM0SB-jD9bbVJzvUyhZ2rh18/s320/IMG_0457.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">In the space between the two houses is a lot of very overgrown and messy greenery, with vines growing like mad in the trees. This is a picture of one of the two huge jacaranda trees, which make gorgeous purple flowers in March and April.</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHVKRtAsriia2e_BHJ8kpP0NDRXbaBd0wgr_CgYj7XvBHekeeQgcxhVhKB57Mm9_nYV8c-boyVwqHaEzMhyphenhyphenm_IVB9nCRwNdsZB1snjNqVaRNn6Flb3IBhTpVGnKNCziDl5KB72gS7t-4o/s1600/IMG_0466.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHVKRtAsriia2e_BHJ8kpP0NDRXbaBd0wgr_CgYj7XvBHekeeQgcxhVhKB57Mm9_nYV8c-boyVwqHaEzMhyphenhyphenm_IVB9nCRwNdsZB1snjNqVaRNn6Flb3IBhTpVGnKNCziDl5KB72gS7t-4o/s320/IMG_0466.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; text-align: left;">Last, here's where you'll stay when you visit. It is now pretty disgusting. Outside the window and behind the wall you see out there is what has been described as a "servant's bathroom" -- a filthy toilet and a filthy sink. At least there's plumbing. It will be expanded, with a doorway to the guest room broken through the wall to the right of the window.</div><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEPu6ilz7trOpEiBptD1Q-E93SWd7GCglXq71rbXcYKJAMrtqhQvQCqIGE31pduNbAFaT9sepMaCsHovPK3x-ELFdLcDQtf6l4k8Sj70JGoZf5nFTLHQyzOJhw-mxxTCcCyF1LXLyoAYk/s1600/IMG_0470.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEPu6ilz7trOpEiBptD1Q-E93SWd7GCglXq71rbXcYKJAMrtqhQvQCqIGE31pduNbAFaT9sepMaCsHovPK3x-ELFdLcDQtf6l4k8Sj70JGoZf5nFTLHQyzOJhw-mxxTCcCyF1LXLyoAYk/s320/IMG_0470.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br />
And on the other side of the room now is -- you guessed it -- what was once decrepit sink. I don't know what the fixation was with sinks in this place. And please note the beautiful floor: peeling, pitted concrete.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmvAIrPcxbmLNOJs7BbHs1oNquyo6vlY0lyFq71HJgfTy4SB1keuRugJhezq2mLgg_NbKkQ-paCQ7oqqHLQuRuhlTROQlAZz0PcwGgW1Ec84hrCJPC5Wg4Rpm6MzKexugTnYWnThdRLo4/s1600/IMG_0469.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmvAIrPcxbmLNOJs7BbHs1oNquyo6vlY0lyFq71HJgfTy4SB1keuRugJhezq2mLgg_NbKkQ-paCQ7oqqHLQuRuhlTROQlAZz0PcwGgW1Ec84hrCJPC5Wg4Rpm6MzKexugTnYWnThdRLo4/s320/IMG_0469.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">When you come I hope you'll remember how awful it is now so that you can better appreciate how beautiful it will be.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Most of the rooms are good in terms of size. Here are the measurements I took.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 3.0in;"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><u>Casa<o:p></o:p></u></b></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 3.0in;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 3.0in;"><o:p>L</o:p>iving room 21’ 11” x 12’ 9”</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 3.0in;">Kitchen 12’ 0” x 11’ 10”</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 3.0in;">Pantry 7’ 3” x 7’ 10” (now a full bath behind the kitchen; not needed as such)</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 3.0in;">Study 17’ 0” x 8’ 8”</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 3.0in;">Powder room 6’ 8” x 3’ 4” (now a full bath off the study; will remove shower) </div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 3.0in;">Dressing/sewing room 19’ 1” x 8’ 5”</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 3.0in;">Bedroom 13’ 4” x 16’ 0”</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 3.0in;">Sleeping porch 21’ 9” x 6’ 9”</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 3.0in;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 3.0in;"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><u>Casita<o:p></o:p></u></b></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 3.0in;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 3.0in;">Living room 17’ 8” x 11’ 2”</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 3.0in;">Kitchen 13’ 0” x 11’ 2”</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 3.0in;">Bedroom 13’ 0” x 11’ 5”</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 3.0in;">Bathroom 8’ 9” x 5’ 8”</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 3.0in;">Hallway 3’ 1” x 6’ 6”</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 3.0in;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 3.0in;"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><u>Guest room</u></b></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 3.0in;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 3.0in;">15’ 5” x 12’ 3”</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 3.0in;"><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Closing is June 27. I have been working hard on lists of work to be done, and it goes on for pages and pages. The plan is to have several contractors in this week or next and get firm bids and timelines from them. We'll choose one and start work as soon as we can after June 27. Contractors who visited before we bought it suggested it would take from 3 to 6 months to finish the work, so we hope to be moved in before the new year. We'll leave the garden mess for later.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Now, kittens! </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">You may recall that our housekeeper showed up with three kittens some weeks ago: she knew I wanted kittens and her friend's cat had recently had a litter. I certainly wasn't aiming for three, however, and I guess I should be grateful the mother cat didn't have six kittens. Nor did I want three so young: they were maybe 4 or 5 weeks old. But there they were.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">We've had them now for what, 4 or 5 weeks? More? They are now completely used to our dog Mela and she to them, and they are finally getting comfortable enough with us (we feed them, dammit!) to snuggle on our laps. Which is, to my mind, the biggest reason to have a cat. Reading a book without a cat on your lap is an inadequate experience. Their names are all Spanish verbs: Ser, to be/permanent; Estar, to be/temporary; and Hacer, to make or to do. As is Mela, all three are <i>chicas</i> (girls), so there's a lot of estrogen in this house.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Here is Ser, the bravest of the three.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6BdGe9-mdjR4AnD-HR7hsNwFxH0X5vTencoRbRGSo5BXFK3GbnXoq7WXDyCH-O9Z0cZJrV-u6HtC54EGXv0dzElfaBMs34ushUPaAkU18N-R7EGKcrmC_dPWRjJ982LfAp2w9euE6_Yk/s1600/IMG_0416.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6BdGe9-mdjR4AnD-HR7hsNwFxH0X5vTencoRbRGSo5BXFK3GbnXoq7WXDyCH-O9Z0cZJrV-u6HtC54EGXv0dzElfaBMs34ushUPaAkU18N-R7EGKcrmC_dPWRjJ982LfAp2w9euE6_Yk/s320/IMG_0416.JPG" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">And Ser's two sisters, Hacer to the left and Estar to the right.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipZDkJxaYo-VUCR37SRhLr1vL8ALGQKmXP3We4zAofJJzOhI_sxmM1mqE8ZKhCKdGFr3fqV5MxBRyPOUYXaCnDNGmZ_lCoEE_vijdi0d-sbivG4O0HXdGkxQ8lbLjRaaDY-0PFdeGNbVc/s1600/IMG_0421.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipZDkJxaYo-VUCR37SRhLr1vL8ALGQKmXP3We4zAofJJzOhI_sxmM1mqE8ZKhCKdGFr3fqV5MxBRyPOUYXaCnDNGmZ_lCoEE_vijdi0d-sbivG4O0HXdGkxQ8lbLjRaaDY-0PFdeGNbVc/s320/IMG_0421.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgWJSBHWAUdKUzFw3yhOOUfDZIACx6GrhqAp9A90X5lqQOPNOQVxOk8qlHcoh8Bdkev5fgHUexol26vZ7Tz6JGU8o8xe8t3vmPtTNxKCpKaF8HZ21xMDyr8vlIevPob6IkJpLJjvDnGLw/s1600/IMG_0418.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgWJSBHWAUdKUzFw3yhOOUfDZIACx6GrhqAp9A90X5lqQOPNOQVxOk8qlHcoh8Bdkev5fgHUexol26vZ7Tz6JGU8o8xe8t3vmPtTNxKCpKaF8HZ21xMDyr8vlIevPob6IkJpLJjvDnGLw/s320/IMG_0418.JPG" width="240" /></a></div><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEik_T37ARJFCR-Q-q0eLEtcHynWFsmSYUHTDodswZFl1yK3WfoGNMjFzDgXJFUOvoyrM9fJq771c3_ZV_W9lyFFOZn6Jq0MFX2YEgZ5G3Rz3fugnbRBcu793EwBy6e0-f9pC-PohLMo8PY/s1600/IMG_0431.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEik_T37ARJFCR-Q-q0eLEtcHynWFsmSYUHTDodswZFl1yK3WfoGNMjFzDgXJFUOvoyrM9fJq771c3_ZV_W9lyFFOZn6Jq0MFX2YEgZ5G3Rz3fugnbRBcu793EwBy6e0-f9pC-PohLMo8PY/s320/IMG_0431.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Because they were too young when they were brought to us, it is pathetic to see that Ser and Estar sometimes nurse at their sister, Hacer, who is moreover the littlest of the three. I don't suppose they get much milk.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPx-ru8R3Q-7eQ-P4uttaCF9K_-EwcUjsg4Wbj47tCzSq-gdDhHW1kT449ZSxw5b2KmlVvhVXIXS8DO0ONDo0RsOziLFHnEt5yGLdS_tzSUo2egyaXIe5_REASnxRtf7FEY0Kvv-KaTTM/s1600/IMG_0446.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPx-ru8R3Q-7eQ-P4uttaCF9K_-EwcUjsg4Wbj47tCzSq-gdDhHW1kT449ZSxw5b2KmlVvhVXIXS8DO0ONDo0RsOziLFHnEt5yGLdS_tzSUo2egyaXIe5_REASnxRtf7FEY0Kvv-KaTTM/s320/IMG_0446.JPG" style="cursor: move;" width="240" /></a></div><br />
The only other thing I wanted to tell you tonight is that we have finally had a week of respite from temperatures in the 90s pretty much throughout April and May, but still with no rain. To a Seattle girl the heat has been excruciating. Air conditioners are extremely rare, so the only relief we had was to go to a public pool a few times. At night we slept with multiple fans, and got up several times to take cool showers. People insisted it was unusually hot, but that was no help. It was so bad that frankly if we had come to San Miguel only in April and May of this year, I would not have wanted to move here. But we are here now and we are moving to a house with superb breezes, probably because it's on a hill -- the view from the patio looking toward the center of San Miguel is below -- and the garden between the two houses is shady and actually makes a kind of wind tunnel. Moreover, the orientation of the house is north, which will help a lot.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbqREWmtQEfHdNu2yvIgpC-fbU2nw7CyLGfMQ8u_KIFVpsbkxbp6ohDXZPEyRZPTxmPNzkNjgntYLRWwRA_pVqvOEyKr98E7uJJI4iSRkEezdQyieZqf-0OkcvV72rGTSxzHav4sI59G0/s1600/IMG_0460.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbqREWmtQEfHdNu2yvIgpC-fbU2nw7CyLGfMQ8u_KIFVpsbkxbp6ohDXZPEyRZPTxmPNzkNjgntYLRWwRA_pVqvOEyKr98E7uJJI4iSRkEezdQyieZqf-0OkcvV72rGTSxzHav4sI59G0/s320/IMG_0460.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div>So with the weather advantages of the new house and with the pool, we should be in fine shape for all future horrendous heat.<br />
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Our adventure progresses!<br />
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</div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5808785827455958131.post-73961191059236473382011-05-28T08:59:00.000-07:002011-05-28T09:19:24.300-07:00Big News! May 28We are buying a house! Yes, it's the one I described in my last post. It is in Colonia (= neighborhood) San Antonio, the neighborhood just to the south of the center of San Miguel. The property measures about 60' wide by 90' deep, a good size for San Miguel, and like other homes is walled on all four sides. As I wrote before, it is pretty derelict and much work will have to be done before it is livable.<br />
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When it is done, this is what you will find. <br />
<br />
<ul><li>As you enter there is the guest room and bathroom on the left and a roofed laundry area on the right. </li>
<li>A little farther on the left is my casa (house), which has a living/dining room, kitchen, pantry, study, and half bath downstairs; upstairs is a bedroom, dressing and sewing room (!), full bath, screened sleeping porch, and possibly an outside shower (depending on cost). Under the stairs is a storage area. Downstairs toward the back of the property and outside the living room is a tiled patio. </li>
<li>To the right of the entrance is Rick's casita (little house): a living/dining room, a kitchen, a bedroom, a full bath, and a screened sleeping porch. </li>
<li>In between and behind the houses is garden, now a mess but it will eventually be nice, with two huge old jacaranda trees that create a beautiful peaceful shady look. We'll put a few chairs there.</li>
<li>All along the back of the property is a sunken area (why it is sunken we don't know) but we will put a small pool, maybe 10' X 12" or so, between the casa patio and the rear property line. Because it's sunny here something like 330 days a year, a solar heater will replace expensive electric heating. Because the ground is sunken, we won't have to dig to build the pool! Its lip will line up level with the patio. Next to the pool and under the casa patio is a large storage room. We will be ready for next summer's heat!</li>
</ul>The work will take somewhere between 3 and 6 months.<br />
<br />
We are buying the place for $160,000, negotiated down from $196,000, and expect to put perhaps $80,000 to $100,000 into it. We have gotten a few sloppy estimates so far from contractors and will soon be ready for bids. The process of buying here is that the contract must be translated into Spanish and notarized by a Mexican "notario," with 10% of the cost as the deposit. We are told that the buyer's cost amounts to approximately 1.5 to 2% of the selling price for title search and all that stuff. We have set the closing date for late next month. To buy it we will use a HELOC, a home equity line of credit, that we have but do not use on our house on Camano Island, and then will repay it by selling the house as soon as we can in the spring when the renters' lease is up. We will be back on Camano Island in late February to take care of that.<br />
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So we are thrilled to have our own place! The current reminder of what it's like to live under an unpleasant landlord has been motivating, as has of course our decision to live "separados pero juntos" -- separately but together. There's a Spanish expression, "juntos pero no revueltos" -- together but not scrambled, which is pretty neat and pretty close to what we mean.<br />
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As soon as I can I'll take photos and post them here. Happy day!Unknownnoreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5808785827455958131.post-51748977452334818662011-05-22T12:58:00.000-07:002011-05-22T13:04:45.166-07:00May 22Mea Maxima Culpa. Well, maybe Minima might be more accurate in the greater scheme of things. I have neglected you: Lo siento! (= I'm sorry.)<br />
<br />
First, the cooks among you are probably waiting for the newest recipes. Despite the three-week interval since the last one there are only two new ones, since Yurina and I took a week off.<br />
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<div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-size: 16pt;">Chiles en Nogada<o:p></o:p></span></b></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Maestra de Cocina Yurina Peralta, el 3 mayo, 2011<o:p></o:p></b></div><div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">San Miguel de Allende<o:p></o:p></b></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;">Recipe for 5 people</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">This is the most traditional Mexican dish. In September, the month of Mexican independence, it is served with pomegranate seeds sprinkled on top: red (pomegranate), white (sauce), and green (pepper), the colors of the Mexican flag.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">5 sweet chiles poblanos (or green Bell peppers)</div><div class="MsoNormal">Olive oil</div><div class="MsoNormal">1 lb ground meat, half beef and half pork</div><div class="MsoNormal">2 eggs</div><div class="MsoNormal">1 to 1-1/2 cups mixed nuts and dried fruits, diced if necessary (don’t dice</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: .5in;"> blueberries or raisins!)</div><div class="MsoNormal">4 cloves garlic, diced</div><div class="MsoNormal">2 cups light sour cream (crema)</div><div class="MsoNormal">½ cup pecans</div><div class="MsoNormal">6 prunes</div><div class="MsoNormal">Milk</div><div class="MsoNormal">Pomegranate seeds (if in season)</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpFirst" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;"><span style="font-family: 'Courier New';">o<span style="font: normal normal normal 7pt/normal 'Times New Roman';"> </span></span>Sear the chiles on the burner flame (or blanch briefly in boiling water). Place in plastic bag to steam for a while (make meat mixture in the meantime), then peel off skin. Be sure to keep stem on. Slit one side and remove seeds. Set aside.</div><div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;"><span style="font-family: 'Courier New';">o<span style="font: normal normal normal 7pt/normal 'Times New Roman';"> </span></span>Heat the olive oil in pot. Add meat and brown evenly. Set aside to cool.</div><div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;"><span style="font-family: 'Courier New';">o<span style="font: normal normal normal 7pt/normal 'Times New Roman';"> </span></span>When cool, mix 2 eggs and fold into meat mixture. Add garlic, nuts and fruit. Fill chiles with this mixture, pushing it down full. Close the open side with a toothpick. Place in pyrex pan.</div><div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;"><span style="font-family: 'Courier New';">o<span style="font: normal normal normal 7pt/normal 'Times New Roman';"> </span></span>Bake chiles in moderate oven for 30 minutes.</div><div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;"><span style="font-family: 'Courier New';">o<span style="font: normal normal normal 7pt/normal 'Times New Roman';"> </span></span>For the sauce, put the crema, pecans, and prunes into a blender. (Reserve a few pecans for garnish.) Add a little milk to thin if too thick. Microwave a minute or two to warm slightly.</div><div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpLast" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;"><span style="font-family: 'Courier New';">o<span style="font: normal normal normal 7pt/normal 'Times New Roman';"> </span></span>Place one chili on each dinner plate and spoon sauce over. Add pecans or other garnish. If in season, sprinkle pomegranate seeds on top.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: 10pt;"><o:p><br />
</o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: 10pt;"><o:p> </o:p></span></div><div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-size: 16pt;">Pollo a la Jardinera<o:p></o:p></span></b></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Maestra de Cocina Yurina Peralta, el 10 mayo, 2011<o:p></o:p></span></b></div><div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">San Miguel de Allende<o:p></o:p></span></b></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Recipe for 4 people</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">4 thigh quarters or breasts</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Any vegetables you want for taste and color. We used:</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">1 large carrot</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">1/3 lb string beans</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">2 potatoes</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">1 chayote squash</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">1 zucchini squash</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">3 tomatoes</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">6 to 8 garlic cloves</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">kernels of one corn on the cob</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">1 serrano chili</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">1 medium onion</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">salt and pepper</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">capers to taste</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Dice all vegetables in small pieces.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .25in; text-indent: -.25in;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Brown chicken. We used the wide paella pan over two burners.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .25in; text-indent: -.25in;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Add vegetables over small-to-medium fire.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .25in; text-indent: -.25in;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Add water.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .25in; text-indent: -.25in;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Cover with tin foil. Simmer about 1 hour. Check partway through: if water hasn’t mostly boiled off, remove tin foil.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .25in; text-indent: -.25in;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">About 10 minutes before serving, add capers.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .25in; text-indent: -.25in;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .25in; text-indent: -.25in;"><br />
</div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">I guess the big news is that Rick and I have decided to alter our relationship a bit. We've come to the conclusion that we will be happier if there's a little more distance between us. We mean this literally. We have started to search for a place to buy here that has a casa and a casita (a house and a little house) on the same property. The house will be big enough to have a guest room in it, so you all will have a place to stay when you come visit, and we'll share the property ownership, car, laundry facilities, and other things to be decided. But we'll each have a separate home. Since we made this decision we are much happier with each other than before, and hope that actually getting into this space, wherever we find it, will make us happier yet. We understand that it's an unorthodox way for married people to live but what the hell, unorthodoxy never stopped either of us before. Where is it written that married people MUST live together?</span><br />
<div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: 10pt;"><o:p><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: 10pt;"><o:p><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">So we've started looking at properties. We saw one that we are sort of nuts about. It has three buildings on it: a casa with a bedroom and dressing room (!) upstairs and a little room downstairs that could be used as my study plus living/dining/kitchen, a casita with three rooms that we're thinking of making into two rooms by knocking out a wall, and a good-sized room with a nearby half-bath that could become a guest room and full bath. The property has a lovely view over San Miguel, is not terribly far from Centro, has a good amount of land, has an OK price that we would reduce, and is in a decent neighborhood. The trouble is that it looks like how Sleeping Beauty's castle and garden must have looked after her 20-year sleep. Derelict doesn't begin to describe it. But the buildings seem solid and there are two huge jacaranda trees for shade. We are making appointments with architects, contractors and garden designers to find out how much money and time would be required to make this into homes we'd want to live in, at an affordable total price. We should be able to make a decision about it this coming week or so.</span></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: 10pt;"><o:p><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: 10pt;"><o:p><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">I have bought two homes in my life, both in Seattle, and for both of them the market was so hot that it was a matter of Decide on the Spot or lose it. I am reveling in the luxury of taking the time to make up my mind about this place! Rick's mind too, of course.</span></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: 10pt;"><o:p><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: 10pt;"><o:p><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">The weather continues to be horrendous, at least for a girl from the Pacific Northwest. Temperatures are in the low to mid-90s every day, strong sun every day, until the rains start probably next month. Old-timers here say this is the hottest summer they can remember, but maybe this will become normal. I carry an umbrella for shade, use the hand fan David and Shree gave me when they were here, and always have a bottle of cold water with me. I have bought something sold locally here, a cloth tube filled with water-absorbent granules of some sort. You soak it in the morning and it holds the water for most of the day. You wear it around your neck and the coolness is wonderful. </span></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: 10pt;"><o:p><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: 10pt;"><o:p><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">And I never thought I'd ever in my life consider this, but we are thinking of installing a small pool in the place we buy, as a relief from the heat. As we all know, only rich people have pools, so this is a conceptual and financial stretch. We'll see if it's possible to do it here for a price we could afford. It bears looking into because labor is much cheaper here. There's a good place in the Sleeping Beauty property for a pool, and in addition it would be easy to create a sleeping porch there for each of us. The nights are deliciously cool, down to the upper 50s, but the houses retain the day's heat: sleeping porches would be ideal in the hot months.</span></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: 10pt;"><o:p><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: 10pt;"><o:p><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">The adult education program I proposed to the Biblioteca is not dead, although it sometimes seems so. After trying to work with the Biblioteca Board of Directors and a Board member who volunteered to work with us on it, I came to the conclusion that they are absolutely so awful to work with -- slow, bureaucratic, micro-managing, intrusive, counter-productive -- that I'd rather not do the program than do it with them. My friend Luba, with whom I'm working on this, suggested an alternative place to hold it. We have made a presentation to the Director and think that the signs look good, but there's no conclusive answer yet. We hope to have one soon, maybe this week.</span></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: 10pt;"><o:p><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: 10pt;"><o:p><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">I have a Mexican medical story to tell you. I got my annual mammogram at the San Miguel public hospital, the Hospital General. It is entirely free, apparently subsidized by the government, but it took five trips. 1) Go to the hospital and learn that I have to come back between 10:30 and 12:30 to make an appointment. 2) Go back between 10:30 and 12:30 and make the appointment. 3) Go back for the first appointment: give them my name, address, age, etc. This takes about 3 minutes. 4) Go back the next day for the mammogram but the doctor has left even though I haven't yet had my appointment. 5) Go back again and this time get the mammogram: sophisticated </span></o:p></span>new digital equipment, apparently knowledgeable technicians. But when I changed into a hospital gown I saw this was is a shared resource; it looked clean but the idea is yukky. I will have to go back for a 6th time to get the results, in a month. In a nutshell you have the advantages and disadvantages of Mexican medicine: excellent and priced right (can't be more right in this instance) but so inefficient.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Rick went to San Antonio, TX, last week. A friend of ours, Louis Cargill, was going to take a bus there and fly from San Antonio to Boston for his semi-annual VA Hospital medical care, but Rick proposed driving. It took about 12 hours, not too bad. Rick took with him a long shopping list of stuff, and he got his hearing aids adjusted at the Costco audiology department. We have two Costco stores near here but they don't have audiology departments. He also got a vision exam and brought the prescription back here to order the glasses locally: less time but not cheaper. As often happens, at the border coming back he got a green light, which means go right on through, so everything in the car was effectively brought in duty-free.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: 10pt;"><o:p><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: 10pt;"><o:p><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">People in the US keep asking if I feel safe here. I must tell you that I feel 100% as safe as I did in the US. Actually, considering comparable-sized cities, I feel safer here. It is true that I wouldn't be comfortable living in a border city, god forbid, or in some port cities where there's been drug violence, but this place feels like a small town in Iowa. And it's just fine to fly into Mexico City (or Leon, a closer but more expensive airport) and take a luxury bus to San Miguel. So from someone with direct experience, the stories of how dangerous Mexico is are starting to sound like the stories about New York, where you're mugged every day, and about Seattle, where it rains 100% of the time.</span></o:p></span></div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5808785827455958131.post-9191785309721254252011-04-30T14:23:00.000-07:002011-04-30T14:23:05.756-07:00April 30: wedding<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQxvlQtZoblWPpKAsEDT_YODNgKIQVzRRM1SGt7q7i40a2lVR5Md2FLzV1nROE5Juw7YNGscfeLNTQ-WP6AUhQEoy-AVKnahXAV53jvCp4aN5ssrFY7cQEr8HaSGzSvcYa32-sg9i4QGM/s1600/IMG_0395.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQxvlQtZoblWPpKAsEDT_YODNgKIQVzRRM1SGt7q7i40a2lVR5Md2FLzV1nROE5Juw7YNGscfeLNTQ-WP6AUhQEoy-AVKnahXAV53jvCp4aN5ssrFY7cQEr8HaSGzSvcYa32-sg9i4QGM/s320/IMG_0395.JPG" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Today we were invited to a wedding! Above is a bad picture (sorry, I was able to get only one) of the mother of the bride, Emma, our <i>ama de casa</i> -- our housekeeper. She has five daughters and three sons, and this was the last daughter to get married. Emma is very unusual for a middle-aged Mexican woman in being so thin, and all her daughters resemble her in this. The wedding was held in La Iglesia de San Francisco, to my mind a more beautiful church than the Parroquia at the Jardin, and the church held enough flowers to stock five flower shops. Tonight Emma will be wearing my red dress that I bought in Tunisia a few years ago, embroidered with gold thread.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">We were able to understand relatively little Spanish because of the reverberation of the loud amplified sound caused such distortion -- the priest wore a big microphone around his neck. The service took over an hour. It began with something that astonished me: two women leading prayers (photo below)! The bride and groom are seated at the center. Emma and her husband Francisco, resplendent in his white mariachi uniform, are seated at the left with the maid of honor in front of them. At the right are the groom's parents and the best man.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHFs060LWjqm9m7uJ3ZHn7tqqlE31NqxxCvUF3FLMyqV26-wSmZ3ZpRHHaStzfaUNoDQ4C7I5z0wV7gAY9O6zU_MyONDxxzgdORMb0P2l8ij_LFLQb3UZR8P7Y1vJktDIptiQcr6fusKE/s1600/IMG_0364.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHFs060LWjqm9m7uJ3ZHn7tqqlE31NqxxCvUF3FLMyqV26-wSmZ3ZpRHHaStzfaUNoDQ4C7I5z0wV7gAY9O6zU_MyONDxxzgdORMb0P2l8ij_LFLQb3UZR8P7Y1vJktDIptiQcr6fusKE/s320/IMG_0364.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">It's a good thing the matrimonial couple had big white soft cushions to kneel on, because they were kneeling for a long time.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjo30h19HEkmcoI4vqz5nufuFRGISCuCI7RN7Vz6P5CDPD4k_AVHughecNM0Wv3-QUuyvvWgoOI4zry2u86OD4tbqHhOlQIT8AI6ntPP9yGQLcb1z_xKvfEVr7myGRdBEWvHFdIaHiB0Q/s1600/IMG_0369.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjo30h19HEkmcoI4vqz5nufuFRGISCuCI7RN7Vz6P5CDPD4k_AVHughecNM0Wv3-QUuyvvWgoOI4zry2u86OD4tbqHhOlQIT8AI6ntPP9yGQLcb1z_xKvfEVr7myGRdBEWvHFdIaHiB0Q/s320/IMG_0369.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">The picture below was after the exchange of rings, but the service was far from over.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhW2wjxFZl6xsczlq1pfAGUO9d8ByoX-pcVk2nuDpXYdF1DGE3cbKsr5xDsQdBupSJYOEd3UXPNn5dljxUNNkRIjRV-_vOaMj71H0WfVlP42gUCCgi-nme9GuDh8yITj0TVT7PKn0l7lgM/s1600/IMG_0367.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhW2wjxFZl6xsczlq1pfAGUO9d8ByoX-pcVk2nuDpXYdF1DGE3cbKsr5xDsQdBupSJYOEd3UXPNn5dljxUNNkRIjRV-_vOaMj71H0WfVlP42gUCCgi-nme9GuDh8yITj0TVT7PKn0l7lgM/s320/IMG_0367.JPG" style="cursor: move;" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">After the priest and the altar boy gave communion up front to the newlyweds and their families, people in the church who also wanted to take communion lined up.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBgFwGn05RmPtwU07HcSGBGgpBgSx8gDQkWr6QZJkgdxeX9U7TamvhhWs8xuXSxxAxG16HLMUtMgkXappginZJADOD4ZcNYeyISzbY-BUW45j8FRgk8EXex0Ton5kjVRTwfGipz5ke8v8/s1600/IMG_0378.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBgFwGn05RmPtwU07HcSGBGgpBgSx8gDQkWr6QZJkgdxeX9U7TamvhhWs8xuXSxxAxG16HLMUtMgkXappginZJADOD4ZcNYeyISzbY-BUW45j8FRgk8EXex0Ton5kjVRTwfGipz5ke8v8/s320/IMG_0378.JPG" style="cursor: move;" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">After the service was the time for photos. The newlyweds and the bride's parents:</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikAtRuuNS-K4aqYscVXJe26sHj9rYuodxCU79f3_jdJD3zYBCXMl0CJAcZAsVCmdAInLVS6d0LQTdDYYScTW325SA97h-3zQv3cJAbvjl8Abq6GAa6E3G2B9QYGhsV3PJaSLbJi13aORI/s1600/IMG_0391.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikAtRuuNS-K4aqYscVXJe26sHj9rYuodxCU79f3_jdJD3zYBCXMl0CJAcZAsVCmdAInLVS6d0LQTdDYYScTW325SA97h-3zQv3cJAbvjl8Abq6GAa6E3G2B9QYGhsV3PJaSLbJi13aORI/s320/IMG_0391.JPG" style="cursor: move;" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">And finally, both extended families:</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinQx9IW_sVWDqrPqPEy9KVA5brB7SdilS59u5nxAK-KNe0kY2cUFvQU9Egzp6dyW0lfCr2qlbrHqa1-H1vIGseJKh0mPo5SgW6ccOhG6EmChMpamsaZdXwvgHuDFwrv253l3N_tT2Aics/s1600/IMG_0398.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinQx9IW_sVWDqrPqPEy9KVA5brB7SdilS59u5nxAK-KNe0kY2cUFvQU9Egzp6dyW0lfCr2qlbrHqa1-H1vIGseJKh0mPo5SgW6ccOhG6EmChMpamsaZdXwvgHuDFwrv253l3N_tT2Aics/s320/IMG_0398.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">What an honor!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5808785827455958131.post-38139496885859424632011-04-28T15:19:00.000-07:002011-04-28T15:19:59.044-07:00April 28So here's the big news of the moment:<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4wQS95jiA3MO7qM3mOF2daO_yfpnMyj2LT12QS8oMsTRrDAQimPVk6khO_wupBhETwwxDyU-1OPJTeETRgmbCTEFVWuxopY_dArZeD6olG2PZsj4UKIPWALGobSm4ox5Y8vbfdzPOBWQ/s1600/IMG_0356.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4wQS95jiA3MO7qM3mOF2daO_yfpnMyj2LT12QS8oMsTRrDAQimPVk6khO_wupBhETwwxDyU-1OPJTeETRgmbCTEFVWuxopY_dArZeD6olG2PZsj4UKIPWALGobSm4ox5Y8vbfdzPOBWQ/s320/IMG_0356.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br />
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Tres gatitos! Three kittens. Our housekeeper knew I wanted kittens, and before I could get them from the SPA here she brought three from a litter that a friend's cat had. Three is more than I bargained for -- I wanted one or two -- but here they are. And at 5 weeks they're younger than we're used to, but they are eating canned food and using the litter box: obviously very precocious kittens. I have been cat-less since our cat, Lila Tov (= good night in Hebrew) ran off at the first rest stop on our trip down here in January. As you can imagine, I have spent hours watching them, to the point where I could decide which kitten warranted which name. Hacer (to do) is the most active one. Estar (to be, temporary) is the tentative, skittish one. And Ser (to be, permanent) is the even-tempered one. Great names, yes?<br />
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Last week it was Semana Santa (Holy Week) here in San Miguel, and I think the town could exist financially on the tourist income from this week alone. There were huge crowds and the streets were filled with folks looking to make a buck while they could.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3C0DMuP8YCke3iqb0iDNgSWNdx2vGw8gf2fYDOmPw6B5CBSUi5mrCDLY2sUGFRsIU3ySLk5WBXsapr8Q6WbLZ562oPyDSg5U6CHytlBZy9Xc1wpthtDDCgpzplQfigMizG83WxnzV3bM/s1600/IMG_0350.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3C0DMuP8YCke3iqb0iDNgSWNdx2vGw8gf2fYDOmPw6B5CBSUi5mrCDLY2sUGFRsIU3ySLk5WBXsapr8Q6WbLZ562oPyDSg5U6CHytlBZy9Xc1wpthtDDCgpzplQfigMizG83WxnzV3bM/s320/IMG_0350.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKHIyaA3L69-zSEu9b5joa3d4pKvq3WLr9-r9RE9HnvwXFbDEtUOBcVgFTM5dTn5M1sOTjeZR7H53Q2mH39X5FkZz4EpfNNsB4ZGmc3dHsFTiy4HMJEsPHrGAgtwQ-uisNqGQ96l6g87Y/s1600/IMG_0353.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKHIyaA3L69-zSEu9b5joa3d4pKvq3WLr9-r9RE9HnvwXFbDEtUOBcVgFTM5dTn5M1sOTjeZR7H53Q2mH39X5FkZz4EpfNNsB4ZGmc3dHsFTiy4HMJEsPHrGAgtwQ-uisNqGQ96l6g87Y/s320/IMG_0353.JPG" width="240" /></a></div><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmt5iiwIaiLmxnDUQSrTNHYN-H-ymWaddeWliXjiPK-S7EeHg9RW52rL0kpppxLAAroPVnQYE5BLNWIO3AS0kQ3N0tAnxnxM8O8c5jptle13rhcDqGy6tWKE6Kzvj2mUXxbPlWpSJ2048/s1600/IMG_0346.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmt5iiwIaiLmxnDUQSrTNHYN-H-ymWaddeWliXjiPK-S7EeHg9RW52rL0kpppxLAAroPVnQYE5BLNWIO3AS0kQ3N0tAnxnxM8O8c5jptle13rhcDqGy6tWKE6Kzvj2mUXxbPlWpSJ2048/s320/IMG_0346.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br />
For a camera this is irresistible stuff. <br />
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And this week in the cooking lesson we made paella marinara! Only seafood, because one person at dinner didn't eat meat or chicken. It was absolutely superb. Here's the recipe.<br />
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<div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-size: 16.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">Paella Marinara<o:p></o:p></span></b></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Maestra de Cocina Yurina Peralta, el 26 abril, 2011<o:p></o:p></b></div><div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">San Miguel de Allende<o:p></o:p></b></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;">Recipe for 6 people</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">3 small crabs, halved</div><div class="MsoNormal">1 lb shrimp</div><div class="MsoNormal">1 lb mussels</div><div class="MsoNormal">½ lb precooked calamari, cut in bite-size pieces</div><div class="MsoNormal">2 filets white fish, cut in bite-size pieces</div><div class="MsoNormal">1 lb green beans, cut in small pieces</div><div class="MsoNormal">½ lb fresh peas</div><div class="MsoNormal">1 red pepper, cut in small pieces</div><div class="MsoNormal">1 onion, diced</div><div class="MsoNormal">5 cloves garlic, sliced</div><div class="MsoNormal">3 cups paella rice (precooked so it won’t stick together)</div><div class="MsoNormal">Powdered saffron to taste</div><div class="MsoNormal">Salt to taste</div><div class="MsoNormal">Paella pan:<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>about 18” in diameter, about 6” high, with a cover</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Brown onion and garlic.</div><div class="MsoNormal">Add a LOT of water.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Heat to just under boiling.</div><div class="MsoNormal">Boil peas separately to soften</div><div class="MsoNormal">Add string beans and calamari</div><div class="MsoNormal">Remove gooey green stuff from crab.</div><div class="MsoNormal">Add crab, shrimp, and mussels.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>All ingredients spread evenly over pan.</div><div class="MsoNormal">Sprinkle in powdered saffron until water is colored</div><div class="MsoNormal">Add salt to taste</div><div class="MsoNormal">Sprinkle in rice.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>If wanted, add saffron if color isn’t deep enough</div><div class="MsoNormal">Add peas (when tender) and red pepper.</div><div class="MsoNormal">After a while, add white fish.</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .25in; text-indent: -.25in;">Simmer, partially covered for a good while.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The rice is very hard and needs time to absorb water.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Cook until rice is tender.</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .25in; text-indent: -.25in;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .25in; text-indent: -.25in;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .25in; text-indent: -.25in;">At first I thought the paella pan, which Yurina had and loaned to me to make this, was nice but unnecessary. Having cooked the paella, however, I see it is necessary for the ingredients to be spread out flat rather than piled up vertically. The pan was so large we lit four burners under it. So if you make this yourself, use the widest pan you can. And by the way, use whatever seafood you like -- this is what I could get (frozen) here. And/or, pork, chicken, sausage.</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .25in; text-indent: -.25in;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: 0.25in; text-align: left; text-indent: -0.25in;">Another thing I've meant to talk to you about is medical care here. Since we arrived in January I've had two contacts with the medical establishment. A few weeks ago I got food poisoning from eating something I should have known not to eat -- not local food at all but smoked fish that David and Shree brought with them when they arrived. It had been unrefrigerated too long, and I gambled and lost. When my fever climbed to over 102 degrees we went to the emergency room of the local for-profit hospital, the only one we knew the location of. They gave me medicine for the fever and an anti-biotic, and this cost 2100 pesos, roughly $200, and medicine to take home cost another $65. Next time we'll go to the cheaper hospital here in town, and we now know where it is. Imagine, $200 for a hospital emergency room is too much!</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: 0.25in; text-align: left; text-indent: -0.25in;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .25in; text-indent: -.25in;">I've also seen another doctor who specializes in gynecology and endocrinology for my insomnia, because it had recently occurred to me that the insomnia dated from about the time of menopause and thus might have something to do with hormones. I checked it out on the web and sure enough, a connection has been established for some women. This man, who came highly recommended, charged way too much because he recently moved here from Mexico City and I think hasn't adjusted his fees yet. He charged 1,000 pesos (about $90), while I'm told that ordinary doctors' fees are 300 or 400 pesos ($27 or $35) and specialists like him charge 500 pesos ($45); I imagine that Dr. Roberto will have to reduce his fees soon. For 1000 pesos I had an extraordinary appointment, from 4:00 to 5:45. First, a detailed health history that took probably an hour. Then a physical exam that included a gynecological exam while we were in the neighborhood, including an ultrasound of my ovaries and uterus, a first for me. Last, prescriptions for estrogen and progesterone, which I took to the pharmacy and filled for about $50. Dr. Roberto spoke excellent English and I liked him very much -- that appointment simply blew me away -- but I told him that he cannot be my regular doctor because I cannot afford him. But imagine what the practice of medicine would be in the US if it weren't for managed care. This was very, very luxurious. And the estrogen seems to be helping! I'll know more in a few more weeks or maybe a couple of months, but there has been improvement that I hope is not just temporary. Now why didn't all those doctors I saw in the US never ask me about the onset or consider the possibility that estrogen might be implicated?</div><!--EndFragment-->Unknownnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5808785827455958131.post-13375029150421253132011-04-22T12:11:00.000-07:002011-04-22T12:17:24.945-07:00April 22First, I know you've been waiting for recipes. Two weeks' worth.<br />
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<div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-size: 16pt;">Molotes en Salsa Pasilla<o:p></o:p></span></b></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Maestra de Cocina Yurina Peralta, el 5 abril, 2011<o:p></o:p></b></div><div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">San Miguel de Allende<o:p></o:p></b></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;">Recipe for 7 people</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Molotes: pieces of lean beef (I think it was rump steak) flattened by the butcher, and wrapped around filling like a burrito.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Pasilla is a dry chile that is not very spicy.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">7 pieces of rump steak (tell butcher para una milanesa)</div><div class="MsoNormal">6 small carrots</div><div class="MsoNormal">4 small/medium potatoes</div><div class="MsoNormal">2 chayote squashes (small)</div><div class="MsoNormal">a little white flour</div><div class="MsoNormal">¼ kg pasilla chiles (dry)</div><div class="MsoNormal">1 lg clove garlic</div><div class="MsoNormal">1 medium onion</div><div class="MsoNormal">1 tbsp + salt</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Dice carrots and squash finely; put in bowl. </div><div class="MsoNormal">Dice potatoes; put in another bowl.</div><div class="MsoNormal">Put the pasilla chiles in boiling water for about 20 minutes until soft.</div><div class="MsoNormal">To make each molote:</div><div class="MsoNormal"> Sprinkle salt and pepper</div><div class="MsoNormal"> Place handful of carrots and chayote in the middle</div><div class="MsoNormal"> Gently fold over, like a burrito</div><div class="MsoNormal"> Fasten with toothpicks</div><div class="MsoNormal">Dredge molotes in white flour</div><div class="MsoNormal">Fry in olive oil until both sides are brown, not too much time. Remove from heat.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><b>Salsa</b></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Remove stems, veins, and seeds from chiles and put in blender.</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .25in; text-indent: -.25in;">Add to blender: sliced onion, garlic clove, and salt, and fill halfway with fresh water (the water in which the chiles boiled is too spicy). Blend and slowly add more fresh water to top of blender.</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .25in; text-indent: -.25in;">Put some olive oil in frypan and diced potatoes and some salt. If any carrot/chayote mixture is left, add it here. </div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .25in; text-indent: -.25in;">When potatoes are al dente, add salsa. Stir, then pour over molotes. Cook covered, over low heat about 20 minutes: if high heat or cooked long time, the chiles become bitter.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><o:p><br />
</o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><o:p>And for the vegetarians among you ...</o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><o:p><br />
</o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p></div><div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-size: 16pt;">Calabaza de Queso, Ensalada Jardinera,<o:p></o:p></span></b></div><div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-size: 16pt;">Guacamole, Ensalada de Nopales <o:p></o:p></span></b></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Maestra de Cocina Yurina Peralta, el 12 abril, 2011<o:p></o:p></b></div><div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">San Miguel de Allende<o:p></o:p></b></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;">Recipe for 7 people</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
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</div><div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Calabaza de Queso — Stuffed Zucchini Squash<o:p></o:p></b></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">7 squashes </div><div class="MsoNormal">½ kg red tomatoes</div><div class="MsoNormal">½ onion</div><div class="MsoNormal">Salt and pepper</div><div class="MsoNormal">½ kg hard cheese: gouda or manchego</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .25in; text-indent: -.25in;">Cut cheese into long strips.</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .25in; text-indent: -.25in;">Gently hollow out a long hole in the squash from the stem end, and push the cheese into it. (Mexican squashes are short and straight, so this is possible.) Fill the end with some of the hollowed-out pieces. Place on plate.</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .25in; text-indent: -.25in;">Cut and blend tomatoes, onion, salt and pepper. If there are any squash pieces left, blend those too.</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .25in; text-indent: -.25in;">Cook tomato mixture in large frypan about 15 minutes.</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .25in; text-indent: -.25in;">Place squashes in frypan, cover with tomato mixture, and simmer over low fire about ¾ hour. Not too much or they will fall apart.</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .25in; text-indent: -.25in;"><br />
</div><div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .25in; text-align: center; text-indent: -.25in;"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Ensalada Jardinera — Cooked Garden Salad<o:p></o:p></b></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .25in; text-indent: -.25in;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .25in; text-indent: -.25in;">2 potatoes</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .25in; text-indent: -.25in;">2 chayote squashes</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .25in; text-indent: -.25in;">¼ kg. string beans</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .25in; text-indent: -.25in;">5 carrots</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .25in; text-indent: -.25in;">1 onion</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .25in; text-indent: -.25in;">fresh garbanzo beans or other beans for protein</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .25in; text-indent: -.25in;">Any other vegetables you want</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .25in; text-indent: -.25in;">Seasoning</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .25in; text-indent: -.25in;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .25in; text-indent: -.25in;">Peel potatoes and carrots</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .25in; text-indent: -.25in;">Dice all ingredients</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .25in; text-indent: -.25in;">Steam vegetables</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .25in; text-indent: -.25in;">Remove to bowl and add olive oil, salt, pepper, seasoning to taste</div><span style="font-family: Cambria; font-size: 12pt;"><br clear="ALL" style="page-break-before: always;" /> </span> <br />
<div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .25in; text-align: center; text-indent: -.25in;"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Otro Ensalada de Nopales (prickly pear cactus)<o:p></o:p></b></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .25in; text-indent: -.25in;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .25in; text-indent: -.25in;"><o:p> </o:p>Rinse nopales pieces well and soak in colander to start taking the ooze out</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .25in; text-indent: -.25in;">Boil until color changes. Change water and boil again – 2 or 3 more times. Strain.</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .25in; text-indent: -.25in;">Put olive oil in frypan and add half an onion, sliced thin. When a little brown, add nopales.</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .25in; text-indent: -.25in;">Add salt and pepper to taste.</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .25in; text-indent: -.25in;">Put in bowl, add cherry tomatoes cut in pieces for color.</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .25in; text-indent: -.25in;"><br />
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</div><div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .25in; text-align: center; text-indent: -.25in;"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Traditional Mexican Guacamole<o:p></o:p></b></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .25in; text-indent: -.25in;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .25in; text-indent: -.25in;">Dice avocadoes and press with spoon. Add diced cilantro leaves, lime juice salt, half an onion cut in very small pieces. Mix and serve.</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .25in; text-indent: -.25in;"><br />
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</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: 0.25in; text-align: left; text-indent: -0.25in;">There was no cooking lesson this past week: enough food! Monday, the day before Cooking Lesson Tuesday, was Passover and we had a Seder here, our first Mexican Seder. We even found a place to get matzoh: a store-owner here is Israeli and places orders with a source in Mexico City. All the comforts of home. We were seven at our Seder, and because it was potluck it was easy to prepare and so companiable. Really wonderful.</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: 0.25in; text-align: left; text-indent: -0.25in;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: 0.25in; text-align: left; text-indent: -0.25in;">Never visit here in April or May. My poor brother and sister-in-law, who were here earlier this month, were the beneficiaries of our ignorance about San Miguel weather at this time. It is hot as hell, often in the 90s. I now walk with an umbrella for shade. It's a dry heat so if you sit in the shade it's comfortable, but any kind of exertion or being in the sun is pretty hard, especially for people like us who love the cool Pacific Northwest weather. Our bedroom is on the second floor and the warmer temperature upstairs is noticeable. We sleep at night with a ceiling fan and two floor fans, and it's just bearable. Rick, thank goodness, covered the large central skylight on the roof, about 12' by 5', which has an opening in the second floor down to the first: the extra heat through the glass was terrible. And because of the heat we leave the doors open. The windows have screens but the doors don't so the mosquitoes get in. We keep getting emails from friends bemoaning the cold, wet weather but we are envious. Bitch, bitch, bitch ...</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: 0.25in; text-align: left; text-indent: -0.25in;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: 0.25in; text-align: left; text-indent: -0.25in;">A week ago there was the most spectacular, marvelous, superb event! IT RAINED! Since we arrived here in mid-January, the most it has done has gotten some clouds and even once a real rain sky. But no rain. After this heat you can imagine how much everyone wants rain, but the rainy season is the summer. David and Shree left early Saturday morning and missed the drama that day. First the clouds, then actual rain, and then even hail! True, not very big hailstones, but if you look closely you can see them.</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: 0.25in; text-align: left; text-indent: -0.25in;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8oqdHGSF-fH3n0nnmABc4SjrPPPbTCEqXF9KJ7ZgKBts2VZcsCocK1FInrctOKf2Vk9fZu0y8DHX4OadWfermhjfI1YUier0234fPdWvHABdX2T4kEChXEj1KFgCEs8cIHfS3ZVv7DoM/s1600/IMG_0344.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8oqdHGSF-fH3n0nnmABc4SjrPPPbTCEqXF9KJ7ZgKBts2VZcsCocK1FInrctOKf2Vk9fZu0y8DHX4OadWfermhjfI1YUier0234fPdWvHABdX2T4kEChXEj1KFgCEs8cIHfS3ZVv7DoM/s320/IMG_0344.JPG" width="240" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">It drizzled all night and the next day was glorious: fresh, clear, <i>cool</i> air, sunshine of course, and temperatures in the low 80s. You don't know relief until you have experienced this. Since then, the weather has been gradually working its way back up the thermometer, but I am so grateful.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0.25in; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; text-align: left; text-indent: -0.25in;">You have probably already seen the blog with Shree's pictures. Here are a few of mine to augment hers. This is one I took of Shree dancing at the place with the marvelous guitarists. She's in the center facing the camera.</div><div><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWcSYIEd0AByzl_oS8-uPWLp-l09AfQ1LN8orjVwbbzdgDxPywEJuBniuWZx5ljYywXfvbh8EtiQxIo7R5SVFMpQ5pkT-hSLdAMQJ7ims_CR-JfzIctmT5FkCAMqKUnycu5s7Wezbqug8/s1600/IMG_0328.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWcSYIEd0AByzl_oS8-uPWLp-l09AfQ1LN8orjVwbbzdgDxPywEJuBniuWZx5ljYywXfvbh8EtiQxIo7R5SVFMpQ5pkT-hSLdAMQJ7ims_CR-JfzIctmT5FkCAMqKUnycu5s7Wezbqug8/s320/IMG_0328.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">I took a few photos of the colors of Mexico, colors that we don't usually see in North America. These are flowers that were going to be used for decorations for a wedding.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQMh3CVq-UrjLFlY6jaTBqw-p1KEfBH5k-GFFVwlwBK-L7beLUjDLYgP69DGIxJAKl0WonXa1ayOjJBUILVxiQgH5su13kZTjh3nDMWbthLD5SnHWnVPH_qSmRTjUs0f71Eq5F_SAWIXA/s1600/IMG_0306.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQMh3CVq-UrjLFlY6jaTBqw-p1KEfBH5k-GFFVwlwBK-L7beLUjDLYgP69DGIxJAKl0WonXa1ayOjJBUILVxiQgH5su13kZTjh3nDMWbthLD5SnHWnVPH_qSmRTjUs0f71Eq5F_SAWIXA/s320/IMG_0306.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgc-oPTptob1_IaOQf5mOpV_XUQJ3v6BgtwM0cJP_0eT0lvMucSdVQyyWMTFR2ctDaGlrAR1tBJp7t7xRh-oeqWPOotiHRvxe0yP570eNEnGyyVwtq6BCaGwvD-Kkt5hInrstZED6EDKk/s1600/IMG_0309.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgc-oPTptob1_IaOQf5mOpV_XUQJ3v6BgtwM0cJP_0eT0lvMucSdVQyyWMTFR2ctDaGlrAR1tBJp7t7xRh-oeqWPOotiHRvxe0yP570eNEnGyyVwtq6BCaGwvD-Kkt5hInrstZED6EDKk/s320/IMG_0309.JPG" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">And on another day there were dancers performing at the Jardin -- you have heard me mention entertainment in the Jardin many times. These dancers were getting ready to go on stage, helping with each other's makeup.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3O0WU6jIa5BqwKkFMWTJ8Sj6XIeOzciaWIdy414cZphRE9Hb7r3zI21RHuGtQOgKb30O57SnuMPaR_pvb6V3V5uplnB-7cjgikkA88lxhk42DDRG-dMP1vKBV58yVcCqy9T-tFTPBYYM/s1600/IMG_0310.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3O0WU6jIa5BqwKkFMWTJ8Sj6XIeOzciaWIdy414cZphRE9Hb7r3zI21RHuGtQOgKb30O57SnuMPaR_pvb6V3V5uplnB-7cjgikkA88lxhk42DDRG-dMP1vKBV58yVcCqy9T-tFTPBYYM/s320/IMG_0310.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjB7XQBZRfJRGrmSSo2qLdubEjegr2i2WNNoGvVXljrDzHL47uS0lX__Xryj8PxWWXXSx5xfbc6PDAMd5HgCZGYXSgzof3VRdSUE2kDnxVchwjgW_Oj7d_1woMjlBIl22kzeB1dRGJhm8Y/s1600/IMG_0313.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjB7XQBZRfJRGrmSSo2qLdubEjegr2i2WNNoGvVXljrDzHL47uS0lX__Xryj8PxWWXXSx5xfbc6PDAMd5HgCZGYXSgzof3VRdSUE2kDnxVchwjgW_Oj7d_1woMjlBIl22kzeB1dRGJhm8Y/s320/IMG_0313.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">In the United States we have Good Friday and Easter Sunday, but here in Mexico there is la Semana Santa -- Holy <i>Week</i>. Actually, more than a week. Last Friday, nine days before Easter Sunday, there was El Viernes de la Columna. Seems there was a priest 250 years ago who to my mind was seriously neurotic, deep into self-mortification. He led a procession from Atotonilco, a nearby town with the bloodiest statue of Jesus I have ever seen, to San Miguel, about 15 kilometers, carrying the bloody statue, flagellating himself while wearing a crown of thorns all the while. Now it's a tradition. I'm told they skip the worst of the self-flagellation but make the procession every year, starting in the middle of the night.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">We have also had El Viernes de las Dolores, Friday of Sorrows. How the Virgin could know a week ahead of time that her son was going to be killed escapes me, but no matter. Windows are "decorated" with purple fabric or crepe paper, symbol of mourning. All around San Miguel in churches, stores and homes, open-to-the-public altars are created to commemorate the Virgin's pain and sorrow over her son's death. All the design elements you see below, including the oranges, are symbolic of something or other; next year I'll do this properly and let you know what it all means. From a design perspective, it's marvelous. </div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTqZxSfFyvD5W16AZQp4nu1g5oa-YvzhqGxlHArBtK9Rr0JhYM7K5Y_0tOCRi9QlFtIYos-IOkg2MVeO6oznUN8zSsYl6T8aUjfcdALtSYLWH3UpljVZpxIInm7q_AVn-uB503vJfoEN8/s1600/IMG_0320.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTqZxSfFyvD5W16AZQp4nu1g5oa-YvzhqGxlHArBtK9Rr0JhYM7K5Y_0tOCRi9QlFtIYos-IOkg2MVeO6oznUN8zSsYl6T8aUjfcdALtSYLWH3UpljVZpxIInm7q_AVn-uB503vJfoEN8/s320/IMG_0320.JPG" width="240" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Yesterday was Good Friday, the day Christ was crucified, and there were special processions and masses everywhere. Today there are two major processions in town. In one there is a special statue of Jesus which has been rigged up to allow his head to turn, which I am told it does, once, as he gazes sorrowfully at a statue of his mother. In another there are thousands of people dressed up like Roman soldiers, little girls in white with purple sashes at their waists, women in black carrying a statue of the Virgin, etc. And tomorrow in the Jardin there are many paper-maché hanging effigies of Judas that are burst to the accompaniment of fireworks and other explosions. Interestingly enough, I have seen nothing about the resurrection of Jesus. Except for exploding Judases, the emphasis seems entirely on misery, a great contradiction with the Mexican talent for celebration and happiness. Perhaps eventually I will understand it better.</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">But much like Christmas in the U.S., Holy Week is a big-deal holiday. Businesses are closed Friday and some of them for more days than that. San Miguel is filled with mostly Mexican tourists taking advantage of the holiday to have a vacation, although some, I assume, are here for religious purposes.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">And I wanted to give you an update on the adult education program that I'm trying to start at the Biblioteca here in town. A couple of weeks ago, with the friend (Luba) I'm working with I presented it to the Board of Directors at the Biblioteca. They were very positive about the idea, but since the Biblioteca has so recently been in the red and only survived by cutting expenses and staff way back, they are leery of starting something that requires a financial outlay with no guarantee of success even if it promises a steady income stream. So one Board member volunteered to work with us on a stripped-down pilot project. We've written the proposal which will be presented at their next meeting later this week. If all goes well we'll be able to offer three courses in November, and if that goes well we should be able to scale up starting in the summer semester next year.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Enjoy your spring!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Jo</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
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</div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5808785827455958131.post-32082005823386914232011-04-22T10:07:00.000-07:002011-04-22T10:12:09.562-07:00Shree's photos, April 22My brother and sister-in-law (mi hermano y mi cuñeda) visited for a week and a half. Thank goodness for visitors: you get to see many things you would not otherwise have seen, because visitors are much more conscientious with a camera than those of us who live here all the time. You will enjoy this!<br />
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First, the photographer, Shree Mickelson. (Well, okay, I took this picture.)<br />
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<div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWL6jqubUeQKU9q3jrt9FPeHuZePjXcY-HLlZnqiEv02ruhOPG_rDnxQ-y6mHbcFjk0PLPvL_aIAhgNtIh4wJwqZCvpxIJ4OJQRN2L7nXET7aYp5oLdHgg7j2t_nlyYWjcuF_xLzvgvcY/s1600/P1040511.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWL6jqubUeQKU9q3jrt9FPeHuZePjXcY-HLlZnqiEv02ruhOPG_rDnxQ-y6mHbcFjk0PLPvL_aIAhgNtIh4wJwqZCvpxIJ4OJQRN2L7nXET7aYp5oLdHgg7j2t_nlyYWjcuF_xLzvgvcY/s1600/P1040511.jpeg" style="cursor: move;" /></a></div><br />
And my brother, David Mickelson. These photos and the next ones were taken on the rooftop terrace of a hugely expensive new hotel/restaurant, the Rosewood, that opened here a couple of months ago. Rooms start at $300 a night, and 4 drinks on the terrace cost $50. But what a view!<br />
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<div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAi_aYNqS7nNmEnKtQr0IIUhX4yLp0i2dCttJ9ylBcno2JTEgWy58t0FYomKUNByGAZE4LQOOqZay4GTfw5ascRjY7O5OQMMUsFI7CcRWep1yUIazxFYiD2jTFnMxhttmlHDD8lXXpGEA/s1600/P1040523.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAi_aYNqS7nNmEnKtQr0IIUhX4yLp0i2dCttJ9ylBcno2JTEgWy58t0FYomKUNByGAZE4LQOOqZay4GTfw5ascRjY7O5OQMMUsFI7CcRWep1yUIazxFYiD2jTFnMxhttmlHDD8lXXpGEA/s1600/P1040523.jpeg" style="cursor: move;" /></a></div><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjB7hNE9Gb4UV1RLNR5CHbMMhyuAC0mx1BsdeSBqLT591T4AuJ4wHuVStUfsBiuqIBsGH6nMmCF-lz93R7ppNyXCJfr2ZQVZ5mbQu748q3l65IIksfOvGeuoRoDpoGSWHWqUOixBoUkI9M/s1600/P1040514.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjB7hNE9Gb4UV1RLNR5CHbMMhyuAC0mx1BsdeSBqLT591T4AuJ4wHuVStUfsBiuqIBsGH6nMmCF-lz93R7ppNyXCJfr2ZQVZ5mbQu748q3l65IIksfOvGeuoRoDpoGSWHWqUOixBoUkI9M/s1600/P1040514.jpeg" style="cursor: move;" /></a></div><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirG6KF9IGNy6Ri5haYl4JRJRiAht4ah7HVmUzlL9-qVrGZ3RbN1a55SwHqEp2XVvKb5pnALMhMiB3QiUXANyd1oCTKPpH27Ug25vl2DFZDwa2s_PxBS7kaFGuejqsTUfKQgqQ6OCz5o6g/s1600/P1040495.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirG6KF9IGNy6Ri5haYl4JRJRiAht4ah7HVmUzlL9-qVrGZ3RbN1a55SwHqEp2XVvKb5pnALMhMiB3QiUXANyd1oCTKPpH27Ug25vl2DFZDwa2s_PxBS7kaFGuejqsTUfKQgqQ6OCz5o6g/s1600/P1040495.jpeg" style="cursor: move;" /></a> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; text-align: center;"><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">They joined me at my conversational Spanish class every day, having learned some Spanish in a trip they took to Cuba a few years ago.</div><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjb-PlvpVtO3HSNx2p5J5w1DBozgOFvFFDu7cWfi2UucGcjpQ-ci-4JRcr0r-iyfY1uznQvdXgsAlnFIH1Hvu-1cOKRk8dGz51OqAX1A-M7leyCzpKPkJoyZaZuOf-40n3hzFfLK5oHNWQ/s1600/P1040246.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjb-PlvpVtO3HSNx2p5J5w1DBozgOFvFFDu7cWfi2UucGcjpQ-ci-4JRcr0r-iyfY1uznQvdXgsAlnFIH1Hvu-1cOKRk8dGz51OqAX1A-M7leyCzpKPkJoyZaZuOf-40n3hzFfLK5oHNWQ/s1600/P1040246.jpeg" style="cursor: move;" /></a></div><br />
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Pretty fine place for a class, isn't it? And here is our teacher, Elvira. She was born in San Miguel and has taught English for 50 years. Hard to believe, but she's 70. An amazing teacher: I can understand every syllable she says.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhthtk8EfrJe6fVaFbrbiJ-Plus4hJq50Wy2CJuLtPwi1EfA8l9HsGoonakGoaysYDRI-p1eeMtYLYm99pU_EnVqXWAmQfMwAODgMk4tH3944LiGXq_UYC2FJj2nalptiglUgjs5L_mF9M/s1600/P1040243.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhthtk8EfrJe6fVaFbrbiJ-Plus4hJq50Wy2CJuLtPwi1EfA8l9HsGoonakGoaysYDRI-p1eeMtYLYm99pU_EnVqXWAmQfMwAODgMk4tH3944LiGXq_UYC2FJj2nalptiglUgjs5L_mF9M/s1600/P1040243.jpeg" /></a></div><br />
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Shree also joined me for my weekly cooking lesson. (I'll put the recipes on the next blog.) First, of course, is the mercado (market) where we buy what we need for the dinner. In this picture, the green round things are prickly pear cactus -- nopales in Spanish -- which you cut up and drain of the gooey stuff, sort of like okra, and then you can cook it or eat it raw. Yurina, my friend and cooking teacher, has taught me two ways to make nopales and I give up. Yuk.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiT23Fb70_qQOPuV-U5YiYxcvFXThcFzeLmD35YjD4roeG-k5F3SufjmVHXpi5RNVLQranvl6z0OnRl1GYPjxDinE1ZvYaoyyBNzIuusiUprkerL5kmb7hG3nuXPiwHEk12zZ5k0N4gXyw/s1600/P1040364.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiT23Fb70_qQOPuV-U5YiYxcvFXThcFzeLmD35YjD4roeG-k5F3SufjmVHXpi5RNVLQranvl6z0OnRl1GYPjxDinE1ZvYaoyyBNzIuusiUprkerL5kmb7hG3nuXPiwHEk12zZ5k0N4gXyw/s1600/P1040364.jpeg" /></a></div><br />
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Here we are, Shree, Yurina and me, in the kitchen preparing the meal.<br />
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I am scribbling down what Yurina is teaching us how to do, which will become the recipe you read on this blog.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjQ35EsHCdq80HoeA2bRWG1oB9jOItf3Z2PG60NwP1fEc7Zd0WBBNy46PRj8nUh9nzOki8FhRz8FxDGZe7rFrcNjmyOT6Ravs4TV2YAQNhBODSPjyOwhXMLsWdCV_Kk9gJDInJ1DSopl0/s1600/P1040431.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjQ35EsHCdq80HoeA2bRWG1oB9jOItf3Z2PG60NwP1fEc7Zd0WBBNy46PRj8nUh9nzOki8FhRz8FxDGZe7rFrcNjmyOT6Ravs4TV2YAQNhBODSPjyOwhXMLsWdCV_Kk9gJDInJ1DSopl0/s1600/P1040431.jpeg" /></a></div><br />
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And here is the fruit of our effort! From the left, Rick, me, our friends Natalie, Louis, and Luba, and David.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhi9-atfv-Yqe0dJdaIVIQhyQ0urFxXXH_-cSfnT9TrY9oeIoyiO8bNX1Rzp5_I0IM_D_0-dB-7qAba40gL7CBDaylqp4oN6K9hkRzVvLZCClq3H2qYjhZ_DhN4isk9PBG52ah-jFp12Y/s1600/P1040442.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhi9-atfv-Yqe0dJdaIVIQhyQ0urFxXXH_-cSfnT9TrY9oeIoyiO8bNX1Rzp5_I0IM_D_0-dB-7qAba40gL7CBDaylqp4oN6K9hkRzVvLZCClq3H2qYjhZ_DhN4isk9PBG52ah-jFp12Y/s1600/P1040442.jpeg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Shree took this photo of Rick and Mela outside our house. The shrine to the Virgin protects the house from graffiti!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIBRlOsz9njl-9_5piDFYYP7YjC_4Nq7Pxh26wNNtW_e55nhKbEb6Ne5YkJ4ZQvPStSibCpcw4m8FNMImzXXKNTzs4blPpY2C8qgnA3MsnxMYkkAblASm5DYUrCHVrIpD3y5pYireC1xg/s1600/P1040353.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIBRlOsz9njl-9_5piDFYYP7YjC_4Nq7Pxh26wNNtW_e55nhKbEb6Ne5YkJ4ZQvPStSibCpcw4m8FNMImzXXKNTzs4blPpY2C8qgnA3MsnxMYkkAblASm5DYUrCHVrIpD3y5pYireC1xg/s1600/P1040353.jpeg" style="cursor: move;" /></a></div><br />
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She took this excellent photo of Rick.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiR4poWRN4Cm2EardhbWHZpuDpeO0Oj5mrrRqmhtjGjzQRvFjgz3Z3x-uCCbz_64o1I9I6P-AZfnfOV2zfY52pLyM2Te5pO3PXuOK3g5nBL7niALvocs9bQLjR1B81pb7YOoVSvRLTeWDU/s1600/P1040419.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiR4poWRN4Cm2EardhbWHZpuDpeO0Oj5mrrRqmhtjGjzQRvFjgz3Z3x-uCCbz_64o1I9I6P-AZfnfOV2zfY52pLyM2Te5pO3PXuOK3g5nBL7niALvocs9bQLjR1B81pb7YOoVSvRLTeWDU/s1600/P1040419.jpeg" /></a></div><br />
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David and I are talking in the shade at the Jardin.<br />
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This could be a Utrillo painting, of one of the beautiful San Miguel streets.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHF78-XpoxDNCMRgB4d4lPaU6zgUU0wH4cXWz1OucBSfaM66GtfXOOBMc8aSvofjDhuuHsAZccSKjDPXSoM-iRfw9GWO4RiQ_uSkElxWJLeotXEKObDWhTLYP7Xh1QE_d6IbsH_pjaZl4/s1600/P1040334.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHF78-XpoxDNCMRgB4d4lPaU6zgUU0wH4cXWz1OucBSfaM66GtfXOOBMc8aSvofjDhuuHsAZccSKjDPXSoM-iRfw9GWO4RiQ_uSkElxWJLeotXEKObDWhTLYP7Xh1QE_d6IbsH_pjaZl4/s1600/P1040334.jpeg" /></a></div><br />
And an evening on the town. First, a fine dinner at Hacienda Guadalupe.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimY2Dua2F1DkISqlDbDhz37Gl6TuYPGnyIKpiPEHZ72PcK0q5G8HR3saziNlUuaFxDsD93CLM1MNeeGoTSxrqJLKCn-ATgofKqcm6M6n3z80Nfzf_7g_pQUNa7qV6EDwHj0hAri4mfaQ4/s1600/P1040526.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimY2Dua2F1DkISqlDbDhz37Gl6TuYPGnyIKpiPEHZ72PcK0q5G8HR3saziNlUuaFxDsD93CLM1MNeeGoTSxrqJLKCn-ATgofKqcm6M6n3z80Nfzf_7g_pQUNa7qV6EDwHj0hAri4mfaQ4/s1600/P1040526.jpeg" /></a></div><br />
Walking through the Jardin, we found an amazing thing: a Mexican Klezmer band that played superb Klezmer music -- "Bei Mir Bist Du Schön" and others -- and consisted of non-Jewish Mexicans! We asked them where we could hear them again but the next day they were traveling to Mexico City to play there.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhg5QaiGOzMWLU20wjjaleloS4t-fwlkJX8mjwQTDS9vb3pp6kUTaHnLx_cXCl8N4z2TnnFSh6JsS27baPMkAhlkzi6R8aG12fv_SuAJwZmyjbBQ8Jgr0WfbiS_ydqDKpZ2Ckt4qxSQuZk/s1600/P1040566.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhg5QaiGOzMWLU20wjjaleloS4t-fwlkJX8mjwQTDS9vb3pp6kUTaHnLx_cXCl8N4z2TnnFSh6JsS27baPMkAhlkzi6R8aG12fv_SuAJwZmyjbBQ8Jgr0WfbiS_ydqDKpZ2Ckt4qxSQuZk/s1600/P1040566.jpeg" /></a></div><br />
Every weekend there is a Sound and Light show at / on the Parroquia, the main church in town facing the Jardin, to commemorate the Bicentennial. This is simply a spectacular photo.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnML25esvUIyIqM-lpV3F_fE12HFsz-rWJ4JRpnzCEEcjBywx9Rw_sUES5UonvXK1oNaO-ScW-sEoB0Pb5ksY05JA4qqEKb0qlaJ8Sjb9XN3Sj5McTceW3v90pUDshL6NgCpbbFlk1Y7E/s1600/P1040589.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnML25esvUIyIqM-lpV3F_fE12HFsz-rWJ4JRpnzCEEcjBywx9Rw_sUES5UonvXK1oNaO-ScW-sEoB0Pb5ksY05JA4qqEKb0qlaJ8Sjb9XN3Sj5McTceW3v90pUDshL6NgCpbbFlk1Y7E/s1600/P1040589.jpeg" /></a></div><br />
And two excellent guitarists, Jack and Frances, to round off the evening:<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg38d7RI1kDmri-mo4BPtgR0_QEAfY8O780-R8UyP5iBWsxnz_5VevGnJyWFfBZQriCRmt4WfeZF4QMrjNVh2GdGf-ZwPNxKL3JTP04j9HewksjH65mVcb-PlkNp2UyGP6UjdG6JzP0zb4/s1600/P1040605.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg38d7RI1kDmri-mo4BPtgR0_QEAfY8O780-R8UyP5iBWsxnz_5VevGnJyWFfBZQriCRmt4WfeZF4QMrjNVh2GdGf-ZwPNxKL3JTP04j9HewksjH65mVcb-PlkNp2UyGP6UjdG6JzP0zb4/s1600/P1040605.jpeg" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">To conclude this photographic tour of life in San Miguel, another visual treat.</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjj2vk4p5HiqyVN3-VQ1a_GTGqLiiT3YgeO2qMpGoCKzq5XShVBEaROfXWDz-lGyQ-9a8CSuPri4hToVupvc1-bowouwu_wodwUKeFCPOi2v8dXCzJYIikDWZzi21-6Rj8KCCTplN6mqnE/s1600/P1040270.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjj2vk4p5HiqyVN3-VQ1a_GTGqLiiT3YgeO2qMpGoCKzq5XShVBEaROfXWDz-lGyQ-9a8CSuPri4hToVupvc1-bowouwu_wodwUKeFCPOi2v8dXCzJYIikDWZzi21-6Rj8KCCTplN6mqnE/s1600/P1040270.jpeg" style="cursor: move;" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div> Thank you, Shree!<br />
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</div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5808785827455958131.post-3774150466324112852011-04-02T17:55:00.000-07:002011-04-02T17:55:55.445-07:00April 2Hola, everyone<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEih-_RHZjLpAtGXr-9XwsDDCEr8vuP8neqQ7TtHPVBRKtpRTLsATzRXoSScTVQiIEmNTJePMdEQ8rfvqUNv45MyUKNQISimlUiYMBJPSh_kK85NvJzS5CV3nKdZZlvX5NF9JLPZI65mQI0/s1600/IMG_0269.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEih-_RHZjLpAtGXr-9XwsDDCEr8vuP8neqQ7TtHPVBRKtpRTLsATzRXoSScTVQiIEmNTJePMdEQ8rfvqUNv45MyUKNQISimlUiYMBJPSh_kK85NvJzS5CV3nKdZZlvX5NF9JLPZI65mQI0/s320/IMG_0269.JPG" width="240" /></a></div><br />
As I write, the church bells are ringing and birds in my garden are chirping madly — they love to splash in the fountain. There are gentle white clouds in the sky but it's mostly sunny. It's been pretty warm these last couple of weeks, only in the 80s but the sun is very strong so it feels warmer. I've taken to walking with an umbrella, and at night we sleep with an overhead fan and a floor fan. We haven't been here in this season before, but I am told it starts getting warm in mid-March until the rains that start in June begin to cut the heat a bit.<br />
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Since I wrote last, I went to see Dido and Aeneas, an opera by Handel as part of the Baroque Music Festival, and the following day Rick and I, along with our friends Victor and Roberta, went to the final concert in the series. It was held outdoors in the canyon at the Botanical Park just outside of town. Such a thing would never, never, never, <i>never</i> be allowed in the US. After a walk down a hillside, people were perched precariously on steep rocks, many near drops onto other rocks 50 feet below. Just think what the liability insurance would cost!<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQYFl288hfG0Bh_xCsLDSj3k7DSVnlbNIltnqQN0cd7A2Zn02SUrLRoHAdOK11G8ZQhe_BBphx4nUY03GYsS1im0MDOtJykVgTfZEqK4P_1sjIFPI0vmWKjHuWOBdNQAoqzDRgRkTojsg/s1600/IMG_0299.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQYFl288hfG0Bh_xCsLDSj3k7DSVnlbNIltnqQN0cd7A2Zn02SUrLRoHAdOK11G8ZQhe_BBphx4nUY03GYsS1im0MDOtJykVgTfZEqK4P_1sjIFPI0vmWKjHuWOBdNQAoqzDRgRkTojsg/s400/IMG_0299.JPG" width="300" /></a></div><br />
In the photo below is Roberta, with the red umbrella, and Victor, with the shawl to keep out the sun. They were on a rock a bit above us.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEid2HKF-AH1EsnYXd-kq-_nlanSRy0xOZpyLqUo9qK4L-en5KT9pmaQtC-Q0E7754W0V3lRsKwldRiErIcXLOY3uqvJ5rYhyRAUlJV35YbPVx9kcGwdGR6b2cJBpJeSPdMTSmA-ue4S2WE/s1600/IMG_0298.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEid2HKF-AH1EsnYXd-kq-_nlanSRy0xOZpyLqUo9qK4L-en5KT9pmaQtC-Q0E7754W0V3lRsKwldRiErIcXLOY3uqvJ5rYhyRAUlJV35YbPVx9kcGwdGR6b2cJBpJeSPdMTSmA-ue4S2WE/s400/IMG_0298.JPG" width="300" /></a></div><br />
But it was an extraordinary scene:<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEit_eVFXZzuZHeW58bJzc6Xi2M2FmmJYWH6IiwJN8WsK1x2eBylM-lQBGlVnUo4QTAPUtg69n1CqxGSoviymEJPb775B2-D8Ps1nQp3ysAcBgsscZusmdmJURxqr2YfWiGl32QpRKVaJUY/s1600/IMG_0301.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEit_eVFXZzuZHeW58bJzc6Xi2M2FmmJYWH6IiwJN8WsK1x2eBylM-lQBGlVnUo4QTAPUtg69n1CqxGSoviymEJPb775B2-D8Ps1nQp3ysAcBgsscZusmdmJURxqr2YfWiGl32QpRKVaJUY/s400/IMG_0301.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><br />
And when the concert finally started, people watched monarch butterflies float through the canyon as they listened to the music. The musicians are wearing white shirts in the upper middle of the photo below.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiEhm37yz7JxfzxDLsT4UQoOspqGH1VpIhV_bLIDX1tgbjxhrmkcfYW0CSuOFekCcu4GKf7ppiodpN2R7oCz6pxa7cwve-DlB5uTDzk6JFWIP_vCcA093-l_e7BVRFzY2qzajBBULuV9U/s1600/IMG_0303.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiEhm37yz7JxfzxDLsT4UQoOspqGH1VpIhV_bLIDX1tgbjxhrmkcfYW0CSuOFekCcu4GKf7ppiodpN2R7oCz6pxa7cwve-DlB5uTDzk6JFWIP_vCcA093-l_e7BVRFzY2qzajBBULuV9U/s400/IMG_0303.JPG" width="300" /></a></div><br />
Towards the end of the concert, some people were concerned about the twilight and started leaving early. When you consider that the footing for young people with perfect balance was pretty iffy — and the consequences of a fall on these rocks pretty frightening — it's amazing that so many people, including a <i>lot</i> of older people, wanted to be there. I have to admit that I've done my canyon concert and see no need to go back again next year, especially because unless the wind was in the right direction, which it wasn't, it's hard to hear the music. But I'm so glad I did it.<br />
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I have two cooking lesson recipes to give you! On March 22 we made chicken molé and red Mexican rice. Yurina tells me that red rice is served in fiestas. For first, we made vegetable soup. These recipes are for 8.<br />
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<!--StartFragment--> <br />
<div class="MsoNormal"><b>Sopa de Verduras — Vegetable Soup<o:p></o:p></b></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">8 pieces chicken (used also for pollo con mole)</div><div class="MsoNormal">Salt</div><div class="MsoNormal">Potatoes</div><div class="MsoNormal">Zucchini squash</div><div class="MsoNormal">4 Carrots</div><div class="MsoNormal">1/3 small cabbage</div><div class="MsoNormal">Celery</div><div class="MsoNormal">Any other vegetables</div><div class="MsoNormal">2 ears corn on the cob, cut into 4 pieces</div><div class="MsoNormal">Lime</div><div class="MsoNormal">Onion</div><div class="MsoNormal">Serrano chilis</div><div class="MsoNormal">Tortillas</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Wash chicken and remove all fat. Put in large pot with lots of water over high fire.</div><div class="MsoNormal">Add salt</div><div class="MsoNormal">Add half to one cup of diced onion</div><div class="MsoNormal">Add a large garlic clove</div><div class="MsoNormal">Skim scum from soup.</div><div class="MsoNormal">Add vegetables, hardest ones first (e.g. carrots)</div><div class="MsoNormal">Remove chicken when well cooked.</div><div class="MsoNormal">Cook soup another half hour.</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .25in; text-indent: -.25in;">Cut up small bowls of limes, Serrano chile (removing the veins reduces the spiciness), and diced onion to serve with soup when serving.</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .25in; text-indent: -.25in;">To serve, put one piece of corn in the center of soup bowl, add more vegetables, and broth.</div><span style="font-family: Cambria;"><br clear="ALL" style="page-break-before: always;" /> </span> <div class="MsoNormal"><b>Polle con Mole — Chicken with Mole Sauce<o:p></o:p></b></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">The same 8 pieces of chicken as for the soup</div><div class="MsoNormal">1 lb prepared mole sauce</div><div class="MsoNormal">A small piece of dark chocolate</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .25in; text-indent: -.25in;">Put mole in pot and add 4 ladles or more chicken soup from soup pot. Mash and stir it smooth. Add a small piece of chocolate. Stir nonstop (!) for 30 minutes.</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .25in; text-indent: -.25in;">When chicken is thoroughly boiled, remove from soup and put in mole pot. Cover with mole and let sit to absorb flavor for a little while.</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .25in; text-indent: -.25in;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .25in; text-indent: -.25in;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .25in; text-indent: -.25in;"><b>Arroz Rojo — Red Rice<o:p></o:p></b></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .25in; text-indent: -.25in;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .25in; text-indent: -.25in;">About 2 cups white rice (half a package!)</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .25in; text-indent: -.25in;">About ¼ to ½ cup fresh peas</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .25in; text-indent: -.25in;">4 roma tomatoes</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .25in; text-indent: -.25in;">¼ large onion</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .25in; text-indent: -.25in;">1 large clove garlic</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .25in; text-indent: -.25in;">2 large stems parsley leaves</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .25in; text-indent: -.25in;">2 tsp salt</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .25in; text-indent: -.25in;">3 carrots, diced</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .25in; text-indent: -.25in;">Olive oil</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .25in; text-indent: -.25in;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .25in; text-indent: -.25in;">Boil peas in small pot about 40 minutes</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .25in; text-indent: -.25in;">Peel and cut tomatoes in pieces; liquefy in blender</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .25in; text-indent: -.25in;">Add onion, garlic, parsley and salt to blender; liquefy again</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .25in; text-indent: -.25in;">In large pot, add some olive oil. When hot, add rice and diced carrots. Stir until dark golden (rice for arroz rojo is cooked darker than for arroz blanco)</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .25in; text-indent: -.25in;">Pour in water to twice the height of rice, and add peas. Add a couple of ladles of chicken soup from the pot.</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .25in; text-indent: -.25in;">Pour in tomato mixture from blender.</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .25in; text-indent: -.25in;">Cook over low fire until rice is done to taste.</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .25in; text-indent: -.25in;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .25in; text-indent: -.25in;"><o:p><br />
</o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .25in; text-indent: -.25in;"><o:p>And the following week, which was Roberta's last (she's shared my cooking lessons all four weeks she's been here), we made cream of corn soup and pork in tomatoes. Again, recipe for 8.</o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .25in; text-indent: -.25in;"><o:p><br />
</o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .25in; text-indent: -.25in;"><o:p><br />
</o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .25in; text-indent: -.25in;"><o:p> <!--StartFragment--> </o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><b>Entomatadado de Puerco (Tomato mixture with Pork)<o:p></o:p></b></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">1.5 lbs green tomatillos</div><div class="MsoNormal">1 lb red tomatoes</div><div class="MsoNormal">2 lbs pork shoulder or other cut of pork</div><div class="MsoNormal">6 large cloves garlic</div><div class="MsoNormal">1 large onion</div><div class="MsoNormal">4 small-medium potatoes</div><div class="MsoNormal">1 small chipotle chile (canned is fine)</div><div class="MsoNormal">Parsley</div><div class="MsoNormal">Black beans</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Put meat slices, with the bones, in a lot of water and cook until soft. If it’s fresh it will take 1 to 2 hours. Add four garlic cloves to the water.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Cut red tomatoes and tomatillos in small pieces. Put in large frypan and cook gently over small fire.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Cut potatoes in small pieces; dice onion; dice 2 cloves garlic.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">When the tomatillos are starting to turn a duller green, add onion. Cook a little while and when the mixture is soft, add potatoes. Add the chile cut in very small pieces, and the diced garlic. Keep cooking over very low fire until potatoes are soft but not too soft: al dente. Stir occasionally and watch to see that it doesn’t burn.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Add salt to taste.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">When the meat is soft, add to tomato mixture. If too soupy, allow liquid to evaporate; if too stiff, add water from meat pot.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Garnish with chopped parsley and serve warm. Also serve with black beans (frijoles negros) on the side.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><span style="font-family: Cambria;"><br clear="ALL" style="page-break-before: always;" /> </span> <div class="MsoNormal"><b>Sopa de Crema de Elote (Cream of Corn Soup)<o:p></o:p></b></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">6 ears corn</div><div class="MsoNormal">½ liter milk</div><div class="MsoNormal">1 tbsp butter</div><div class="MsoNormal">A little dry rosemary, crumbled</div><div class="MsoNormal">Optional: dry <!--[if supportFields]><span
style='mso-element:field-begin'></span><span style="mso-spacerun:
yes"> </span>CONTACT _Con-3B05206D13 <span style='mso-element:field-separator'></span><![endif]-->sherry <!--[if supportFields]><span
style='mso-element:field-end'></span><![endif]--></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">If you’re making this with the entomatado de puerco, you can boil the ears of corn (shucked, of course) in the same pot as the meat.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">When boiled, cut off the kernels. Reserve a small dish of kernels for garnish.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Put about a cup or more of kernels into the blender. Add 5-6 ladles of water from the meat/corn pot. Liquify. Pour this stuff into a wire mesh strainer over a large pot. Mash it down so that the cream of the corn goes into the pot and only the pulp is left in the strainer.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Put the pulp back into the blender and add another cup or so of kernels, with water from the pot. Repeat, putting all the accumulated pulp again into the blender, until the kernels are used up, and then do it a few times more to extract as much of the corn cream as possible. (You can save the pulp to make a corn pastry dessert with.)</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Boil the soup gently, stirring constantly: it will thicken a little. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Add the milk and reheat. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Before serving, you can add just a little sherry, perhaps 3 tbsp for a large pot of soup, just to round off the taste – optional.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Garnish with corn kernels and serve hot.</div><!--EndFragment--> <br />
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I have learned that the left-over corn soup thickens considerably, which is terrific too.<br />
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And as always on our Tuesdays, we have a veritable salon going here for dinner. This past Tuesday Victor and Roberta Bremsons were here, as well as our friend Milt Fisher, who like the Bremsons went home at the end of March. With them were Mike Hatch, our current house guest (he left a few days ago) and our Mexican friends Gerardo and Magda. With 8 people, our table was full. I love Tuesdays: a party every week!<br />
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The chamber music series is winding down for the season. Last weekend we heard a marvelous pianist, Stephen Prutsman, doing an innovative program he had presented last fall at Carnegie Hall — for I'm sure 10 times as much money. He interspersed Bach preludes and fugues from Book 2 of the Well Tempered Clavier with other short pieces, modern and not so modern. I looked up the New York Times review afterward and saw that they had loved it too. Tomorrow night there's a classical guitarist, the last concert until the new series in October. I love these concerts, and for only100 pesos -- about $9. <br />
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Afterward, several of us went to dinner at San Miguel's chinese restaurant (!), which was actually very good. I met a woman there who used a memorable phrase to describe San Miguel. She called it "a fantasyland for people with a brain." Exactly right!<br />
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The following day we had a party at our house. If you are you saying, "So what's new?" you'd be right! The sister of Yurina, my cooking teacher, was visiting from Cuernavaca, and I invited the whole family over for lunch. Twelve of them came! Conversation was split between Spanish and English, and this family feels more and more like my own. I met Yurina through her brother, Gerardo, and I've met other family members through them both. Later in the week Yurina invited us over to her house for dinner, too -- she made pozole, which was delicious and which I will learn how to make and share with you. I feel very privileged to have these wonderful Mexican friends.<br />
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I have had my intermediate Spanish conversation class every day at noon at the Instituto Allende, and my Spanish is gradually, slowly, getting a little better. I can now occasionally — although not often! — use a verb in the past tense or the imperfect. The conditional is still beyond me. It's a challenge and I'm enjoying it. I'm also working hard on the adult education course I'm proposing to the Biblioteca. The Board meeting at which it will be considered and presumably voted on is two weeks from yesterday, April 15. I'm working on it with a friend here, Luba, and she and I have been amassing data. There is no competition, judging from a local website listing classes and course. The potential demand seems strong, judging from a survey Luba and I have done with about 80 people, and the budget indicates the Biblioteca would make some nice money from it while still keeping the course fee low. If all goes well, the first classes would start in October. I'll keep you posted!Unknownnoreply@blogger.com2